Way Around Using Glue In Beadboard Installation??

[Derrick111]

Hi, I want to put up beadboard on either side of my fireplace. Is it possible to install beadboard in a manner that wouldn't destroy the sheet rock should I want to remove the beadboard later? Typical installation asks you to use industrial glue as part of the installation but there may be asbestos on the other side of the sheet rock from old siding material (1950s house). I am worried that if I were to do a bad job or don't like it in a year, I can't remove it without ripping the paper backing off the sheet rock which would mean I would have to replace the sheet rock too, possibly exposing asbestos.

Thanks!!

[chandler]

I assume you are talking of beadboard panels, and not beaded planks, right? IMO, you are thinking too much into the unknown. You want the beadboard now. Why worry about what may or may not happen. If you do decide to retrofit it, you can skim coat the sheetrock and finish it to paint. I should think installing the panels solidly to the sheetrock is the present project and you should go for it if that is what you want. Use PL paneling adhesive and it should remain up for a while.

[XSleeper]

As usual, I completely agree with Larry...

...but I fail to see what your exterior siding has to do with your interior paneling and sheetrock? You do realize that there is a layer of sheathing covering the exterior side of your studs, and that your siding is nailed on top of that, right? If you rip off your sheetrock, you won't see the back of your siding...

Or are you worried about something that you know is surrounding the fireplace?

[drooplug]

If there will be trim covering the top and bottom of the bead board panels, use screws in those areas to attach the panels to the walls. Place them where the studs are and use drywall anchors if you get to a place without a stud.

[Derrick111]

I believe there to be asbestos fibers down in between the studs from a through the wall AC unit installation done in the late 70s. They cut the asbestos panels with a circular saw to make the hole in the wall for the AC unit which likely spit fibers all over down in there. I don't want to open that wall in any way, so if beadboard can be installed properly without gluing, I want to give it a try.

I haven't yet decided if I want to use beadboard planks or panels so I guess I should ask what the advantage to each is. I want to do a good install and job so if one is better despite cost, I will do it. I will be putting trim on top and bottom as well.

Thanks!

[chandler]

Beaded planks you will nail with a finish nailer in the tongue directly into the studs (or through the sheetrock and into the studs in your case). The bottom groove sits on the top tongue and it all ties together. It will be better removed if that is your worry. No glue would be necessary. It is almost 3/4" thick so you will need to plan on a little edge trim to tame it down. BTW, unless you have installed perlins in the wall, the planks will run horizontally.
This is how it is installed.

[drooplug]

Beadboard planks is way nicer.

[chandler]

I'm finishing one basement (the one in the pix) for a client that is almost 100% planks, and the second remodel, the owner wanted their log home to look like a cabin. Stripped out the entire house of sheetrock, except laundry area and will begin the arduous task of beading the entire house, two stories, including bathrooms. It'll look great, but I fear they will tire of all the wood, since the exterior walls are log, too.

[XSleeper]

I worked in a new house that had tons of woodwork too... it had a lot of rooms that were paneled with wainscotting, with wide baseboard, fancy base cap and crown moulding. Very fancy. You sure find out how plumb and square everything is when you do that! New windows all had to be set with lasers.

I kind of like the country look of vertical beaded 1x4 v-groove when it covers about 2/3 of the wall, with a plate rail & apron across the top.

[chandler]

I like the idea of removing 32" or so of sheetrock at the bottom and replacing it with perlins and vertical bead planks similar to the ones in the pix with a chair rail. Makes for a flush wainscoting and it is really solid.

[Derrick111]

I kind of like the country look of vertical beaded 1x4 v-groove when it covers about 2/3 of the wall, with a plate rail & apron across the top.

Thanks everyone, planks would be my preference and I don't want to go horizontal, but having to install purlins might be a deal breaker. I too like the idea of country look of vertical beaded 1x4 v-groove when it covers about 2/3 of the wall and want to put up vertical beadboard... that sounds like what I'm going for. Maybe something a bit like this:





Any ideas on how to get this without installing purlins that would jet the wall out, use glue that would destroy the sheetrock if beaboard was removed later, and not look cheap?

[XSleeper]

Well, I don't think you can do it without using ANY glue, but you can probably do it with "minimal" glue. Rather than using true beaded 1x4, use the paneling that simulates the same look, and do what drooplug suggested. Attach it at the top and bottom with screws (or panel nails) which will be covered by your baseboard and chair rail / plate rail & apron. Use panel nails or "dots" of glue as needed. The dots of glue only need to be the size of a dime and they won't "destroy" the paper if it ever needs to be removed/repaired, especially if you only do it sparingly.

Or, if you don't mind the look of a few panel nails in the field and at seams, just use enough of them to hold the panels back to the wall. The panel nails are what make it obviously look like paneling, though. But if you set, putty, caulk and paint, that can hide a lot.

I don't want to minimize your concerns about asbestos but everyone alive has probably breathed a million times more asbestos from the old brake pads they used to use than if you swept up all the saw dust in your wall and snorted it. (not that I'm advocating that, of course... LOL) Thanks to the government we now have to treat it like nuclear waste. Same goes for lead paint. Wait a few years and fiberglass will probably be in the same category.

[drooplug]

Let's say you put the beadboard on with glue. Then your take it off and tear up your sheetrock. Instead of removing the damaged pieces, you can apply a new layer over the old.

Lead paint is a serious hazard. Unlike asbestos where the danger lies in longterm exposure, it doesn't take much lead to screw you up. It is the most dangerous for young children. They popular story on how children get exposed is that they eat lead paint chips that fall off the wall. In truth, the biggest danger comes from when people sand the paint to apply a new coat. It doesn't take much lead paint dust to kill a child. There is also a huge danger from soil contaminated with lead from paint that has washed off the siding for decades.

[XSleeper]

What amazes me about the whole "contamination" industry is how it all ultimately ends up costing the homeowners an arm and a leg to deal with the contaminates, while the industries and executives that made all the profits by making and distributing those products usually always get off Scot-free.

[Derrick111]

Let's say you put the beadboard on with glue. Then your take it off and tear up your sheetrock. Instead of removing the damaged pieces, you can apply a new layer over the old.

A new layer? Please tell me more...

[drooplug]

I'm not sure what else there is to explain here. You put another layer of new drywall over the old. You don't have to remove the old stuff. You can even go with thinner drywall. They make 1/4" thick sheets that will work. You will have to extend electrical boxes, but that isn't difficult either because they make extensions.

[marksr]

You'd also need to remove the woodwork, add a wood fill strip [same thickness as the drywall] and alter the base and crown molding to fit the slightly smaller dimensions.

[Derrick111]

Eh... so I would have half a wall with a piece of added drywall sticking out? Doesn't sound like a good option. I'm not sure after discussing this that there is any way to get the vertical country look that wouldn't require glue that would either mess up my wall pretty good or exposing myself to asbestos if this doesn't work out or style/taste changes. Gotta be something else I could do??

[XSleeper]

I've seem people remove WALLPAPER from drywall, which completely shredded the paper, and it can still be skimmed over and can be made to look perfect. I don't know what ur problem is with using a "little" glue. I'm out.

[Derrick111]

Oh, I wasn't aware you could do that.

[chandler]

See post #2................