Cutting and joining wood at an angle for inexperienced woodworker
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Cutting and joining wood at an angle for inexperienced woodworker
I want to make a corner "cabinet" (no doors..basically a platform) out of 2"x10" wood with the wood going vertically. I won't go into why I am using 2"x10"s vs. building a real frame and applying wood.
I attached a sketch when looking from the top of the "frame" (the whole thing is really solid vertical 2x10s).
My question is, how do I figure out the angle, cut and attach the lower right corner?
I have a table saw (that can do angles) and compound mitre saw and little woodworking experience. I want to keep it as simple as possible (no biscuits, dovetails, pocket joints).
I assume I need to calculate the angle and set my table saw. I am not sure if I can screw those pieces together themselves or need another interior angled piece of wood to join the corners.
Neatness/strength are not extremely critical to this project.
I attached a sketch when looking from the top of the "frame" (the whole thing is really solid vertical 2x10s).
My question is, how do I figure out the angle, cut and attach the lower right corner?
I have a table saw (that can do angles) and compound mitre saw and little woodworking experience. I want to keep it as simple as possible (no biscuits, dovetails, pocket joints).
I assume I need to calculate the angle and set my table saw. I am not sure if I can screw those pieces together themselves or need another interior angled piece of wood to join the corners.
Neatness/strength are not extremely critical to this project.
#2
General Tools 8 in. Sliding Digital T-Bevel-828 - The Home Depot
The above tool will give you the angle - lay the flat base on the wall and swing the metal part until it touches the other wall. Protractor will give you the angle.
Can you add detail to your sketch to show both the width of the 2x4's and the angles you will need to cut. The sketch just looks like you are cutting a shelf when I think you are creating a cabinet.
The above tool will give you the angle - lay the flat base on the wall and swing the metal part until it touches the other wall. Protractor will give you the angle.
Can you add detail to your sketch to show both the width of the 2x4's and the angles you will need to cut. The sketch just looks like you are cutting a shelf when I think you are creating a cabinet.
#5
Member
Thread Starter
Look up Kreg pocket hole jig.
#6
Member
Dimensions
Give us the measurements so we can calculate the angle. Your table saw will only tilt 45 degrees or less. This limits the orientation of the 2x10's to one direction.
Also, 2x10's are not really 10 inches wide. More like 9 1/2 inches. Measure your stock to get exact width.
Also, 2x10's are not really 10 inches wide. More like 9 1/2 inches. Measure your stock to get exact width.
#7
Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 135
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Pocket joinery will work with miter joints in stock that thick, but it would complicate the setup of the drilling jig.
If the drawing shows the planform view of what's being built and the board grain will be aligned vertically, then the miters will be edge-grain joints and just gluing will be incredibly strong in that stock size as well, the clamp-up might be a little tricky, but band clamps should work well enough since there's no concavity to the perimeter.
One thing is to be very careful with doing the angled rips on the table saw, you'll have to have a lot of blade exposed for that thick of a bevel cut and the spot where the blade comes out of the top will be pretty far away from where it normally would on a square cut.
If the drawing shows the planform view of what's being built and the board grain will be aligned vertically, then the miters will be edge-grain joints and just gluing will be incredibly strong in that stock size as well, the clamp-up might be a little tricky, but band clamps should work well enough since there's no concavity to the perimeter.
One thing is to be very careful with doing the angled rips on the table saw, you'll have to have a lot of blade exposed for that thick of a bevel cut and the spot where the blade comes out of the top will be pretty far away from where it normally would on a square cut.
#9
Yeah...
I'm still waiting for the measurements and a better drawing. That drawing is so vague that its funny.
Hard to find an angle with no measurements!
(no biscuits, dovetails, pocket joints)...................
how do I figure out the angle