Constructing a butcher block work table


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Old 06-29-15, 09:04 PM
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Constructing a butcher block work table

I’m constructing an outdoor work table. I have two, 6’ X 24” pieces of butcher block. I want to join them together creating a 6’ X 48” table top. I planning to wood glue them together, then join them together by screwing four cross pieces on the underside, anchoring them every 8” or so, with wood screws. My only problem is I have no large bar clamps to use and would rather not purchase them. I’m a retired TV writer from the Bronx and a complete klutz who has a garage filled with tools I adore but know little about using! Still I LOVE my projects and never do mind the ridicule they inevitably bring. This table may sag, be wobbly, and list to one side but it will bring me endless joy! So what wonderful old school tricks will get me around the lack of clamps? I will greatly appreciate any and all suggestions.
 
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Old 06-30-15, 03:12 AM
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I moved your post to a more appropriate forum so it would garner more advice. As much as I hate to say it, you could invest in two 1/2" pipe clamp sets ($12 ea) and a 10' piece of 1/2" black iron pipe ($12) cut in half. If you have a shop, you will find them invaluable later on as well. I have a section of wall space about 8' wide with nothing but pipe clamps.

Another way to keep it from sagging is to place a third set of legs in the middle to give vertical support.
 
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Old 06-30-15, 04:39 AM
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I would agree with Chandler, pipe clamps are the best option. You have to pay to play!

I, however, would recommend 3/4" pipe ones like these: 3/4" Pipe Clamp with Base Look around and you will find a bunch of 20% off coupons in you local paper/magazines good on one item, you might also get a free tape measure/meter/flashlight/screwdriver!

You could check with your local rental store and see if they can rent you some clamps. I checked mine and they rent 2 - 57" bar clamps, for 24 hours, for $6.75 +tax. Bar clamps are better then pipe clamps as they do not flex as much.

The only other option I can think of is to wrap some cargo ratchet straps around the top to help pull it together. It might be tough to keep things flat and aligned though. Place some scrap wood to raise the top up to slide the straps around them.
 
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Old 06-30-15, 05:29 AM
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I'm assuming the butcher block has some thickness so I would dig out my drill and do my best at positioning opposing holes along the joint to be glued. I would then insert some wooden dowel stock with lots of glue when everything gets pulled together.

Since you will be adding legs to this table, A perimeter frame set a couple of inches in all the way around could also help hold everything flat and together. Even if you have to add more boards to the bottom to hold it secure while the glue dries, on the bottom they would be easily filled and not noticed.

Tolyn's strap will work, but even a rope (protect the edges) tied around in the direction you want to hold it and then a tourniquet style piece of wood to twist that rope as tight as needed.

If you carefully locate the holes for the dowels and carefully drill them straight, that edge will never move.

Bud
 
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Old 07-01-15, 10:33 AM
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A sincere "Thank You" to all who took the time to answer!

All the suggestions and comments in response to my request, as well as the Moderator's placing it in a more appropriate forum, are very appreciated. I am searching tool rental outlets for the suggested BAR CLAMPS immediately. Again, Thank you all for your very educational input!

JoeBronx
 
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Old 07-01-15, 05:13 PM
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You have to join the sections together somehow other than just glue, and unless yer pretty darn good, doweling isn't easy. Biscuit joints are easier, but require a specific tool that will be little used afterwards.

Maybe the basic Kreg jig would do it, I've never used one, but hear it's great.
 
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Old 07-02-15, 05:20 AM
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Kreg jigs are great but don't think will work for butcher block, A biscuit joiner from harbor freight are fairly cheap and do a good job. Biscuit will keep the pieces lined up while glue dries.
 
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Old 07-07-15, 03:03 PM
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If you've got a router of some sort, you could do a biscuit or spline joint with a grooving bit for the router (probably about $20-30 on Amazon or in many stores). For strength, it'd probably still be best to put some kind of supporting members across the underside of the joined tabletop; just the framework connecting the legs for the table could suffice in that function if it's well constructed.

Another option for a stronger joint between the two ends, if you're willing to give up maybe 1" of overall length in the finished product would be to rabbet the ends and glue the parts together as a lap joint rather than a butt joint. I'd still recommend some kind of supporting framework with that kind of joint as well since without any support, the bending in the table top will peak right at the joint location and the combined top may not even be able to support its own weight.
 
 

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