Removing Ceramic Tile
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02-22-12, 08:12 AM #1
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Removing Ceramic Tile
I am remodeling a bathroom & want to remove the ceramic floor (6x6 tiles) & also the shower tiles. The floor tiles were put down the old fashioned way(metal lath, mud, tile). What is the best way to remove the everything?
Thanks
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02-22-12, 10:51 AM #2
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Remove Tile
You have a lot of work ahead of you. All you need is a hammer and some kind of metal scraper.
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02-22-12, 01:56 PM #3
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After removing the toilet, vanity, doors etc, start at the doorway and with a pry bar and hammer start prying between the mud and subfloor. You'll also need wire cutters to cut the lath. It's a dusty job, long sleeves, eye protection, leather work gloves.
The rest of the details will come to you in short order. What will you be installing after?
Jaz
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02-22-12, 02:13 PM #4
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removing ceramic tile
Thanks for the info...13x13 ceramic tiles...it's about 90 sq ft...someone also suggested that I tile right over what is there.
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02-22-12, 03:54 PM #5
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Going over the old is something I've done a bunch of times with good results. It has to be in excellent condition though and under certain conditions.
Jaz
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02-22-12, 04:36 PM #6
I think your biggest concern is height difference when tiling over. Door jambs, doors themselves, toilet setting, dishwasher removal, etc.
Larry
Half of communications is listening, and you can't listen with your mouth.
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02-23-12, 10:30 AM #7
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Removing Ceramic Tile
Thanks to you both for the info.
The tiles are in good shape & level. To to worried about the door jambs & height as there is about a 1" gap between the tile & door now.
What I am worried about is the extra weight of the tile on the floor joists as this bathroom is on my second floor.
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02-23-12, 12:05 PM #8
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Is the current tile in good shape, no cracked tiles, no cracked or loose grout? If so, the added weight of the new tile will be fine. You will need to clean the existing tile and grout well. Make sure, no oils and waxes remain. Depending on the type of tile you have, you may want to abraid the existing tile for better thinset bond. Use a good quality modified thinset for this, don't use the cheapo stuff.
There are some issues you need to concern yourself with.
What will you have to do to the existing closet flange to make it work with the added height? Any issues with baseboard heat or floor registers? Will there be any problems with raising the existing baseboard moulding. At the doorway, what kind of transition piece do you have now between the bathroom and the existing room? If its a marble saddle, you may have to remove it and replace with another, or something else. You said door height clearance isnt an issue. Will you be replacing the vanity? If not, is there tile under the vanity now? If so, you may want to consider removing the vanity, tiling to the wall and then reinstalling the vanity. If no tile under the vanity now, then dont bother.
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02-23-12, 12:10 PM #9
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Removing Ceramic Tile
@HeresJohnny - I completely gutted the bathroom; vanities, sink, toilet bowl, baseboard moldings gone. The only thing left is the ceramic floor & the tub.
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02-23-12, 12:50 PM #10
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Sounds like you have it all under control.

Ask questions, we can help.
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02-24-12, 09:51 AM #11
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Demolition
Has begun...using a sledge & pry bar...it's coming up...slowly..can I use a hammer drill with a 4" bit to get it up quicker?
Thoughts?
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02-24-12, 10:05 AM #12
I've seen rotary hammers used...but not the typical pistol grip hammer drill. Rotary hammers can be rented pretty cheap.
Vic
"Vita brevis"
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02-24-12, 10:30 AM #13
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That's what I meant...a rotary drill...will the metal lath beneath the tile & cement be a problem for the rotary drill?
Thanks
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02-24-12, 10:45 AM #14
As I understand...it won't cut through the metal lath of course...but it will lift and break up all the other stuff...making cutting the lath easier.
Vic
"Vita brevis"
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03-05-12, 07:17 AM #15
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Removed!!
OK..so I removed everything...the lathe, mortar & tiles. Now I'm left with a plywood base with a "million" staples from the lathe.
Do I need to remove all of them, can I put a 1/4 plywood over what's there or can I bank them down & thinset right over them?
Thanks for the help!!
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03-05-12, 09:45 AM #16
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Hammering them down is fine. Re-screw the subfloor, install new 3/8 or better yet 1/2" underlayment grade ply, (no CDX), Then 1/4" tile backer board into thin set or a membrane such as Ditra.
Get back when you're ready to make more product selections, like the tiles.
Jaz
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03-05-12, 11:21 AM #17
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Many thanks...would that make my floor too high if I add 3/4" to the base that's already there? Just thinking about the 2 door jambs...I can measure later on this evening for clearance. I already have the tiles ready to go.
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03-05-12, 11:46 AM #18
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No, the alternative is to redo it with a mud job like what you just ripped out. That would add at least 3/4", probably more, plus the tiles. I doubt your single sheet sub is in perfect condition anymore.would that make my floor too high if I add 3/4" to the base that's already there?
You'll want to make the new floor the same height as it was. Otherwise you're gonna have other issues.
Jaz
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03-12-12, 10:25 AM #19
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After measuring out...I picked up 1/2" cement board...the tiles are a little over 1/4"...I laid out a piece of board with a couple of tiles & looks good and at the right height.
I'll let you know how it turns out...
Thanks for all the help
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03-12-12, 10:36 AM #20
Don't forget you will have to add a bit of height for the thinset....
Vic
"Vita brevis"
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03-12-12, 11:02 AM #21
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I did take that into account...thanks for the reminder though!!
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03-12-12, 02:52 PM #22
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Twice, once underneath the cement board and once between the cement board and tile.Don't forget you will have to add a bit of height for the thinset....
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03-18-12, 02:00 PM #23
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Thinset underneath cement board...notched or flat side of the trowel?
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03-18-12, 04:19 PM #24
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Notched trowel, 1/4x1/4" you can't get an even amount with a flat trowel. This will add about 1/16" once installed.
Jaz
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03-19-12, 06:46 AM #25
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Thanks again...willl get at it next weekend.
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