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Replacing rotted studs vs adding new ones next to them?


EvanVanVan's Avatar
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03-19-17, 06:52 AM   #1 (permalink)  
Replacing rotted studs vs adding new ones next to them?

I'm in the process of replacing the rotted sill plate in my garage and some of the studs holding up the header are completely rotted through (my low-sloped roof leaked for years before I recently repaired it).

The outside of the garage is tile nailed to the plywood. While I've got the header jacked up to the replace the sill I'm wondering what my best option for replacing the studs are?

Honestly I don't care about the tile, so I'm thinking of sawzall-ing the nails between the rotted studs and the plywood and removing the entire stud and replacing it. If the nails holding the tiles rattle loose so be it... I could then toe nail or use some angle brackets to re-secure the plywood to the stud from the inside.

Would that work well? Or should I just add new studs next to the original and toe nail them into the header and sill plate?

Like I said the roof leaked so a couple of them are completely rotted/carpenter-ant-eaten (90% sure they're not termites), so they're bad from top to bottom. The rest are just rotted the bottom foot or two where moisture seeped up from the sill.

Thank you

Edit: Was also planning on using a green 2x6 anchored to the concrete floor, as the sill and also a nailer for the eventual insulated 2x4 sleeper floor. Then adding a second (possibly green) 2x4 on top of it as the base for the studs. I read double sills aren't usual for the the floor. Is this overkill? Currently the studs are attached to the rotted sill on the concrete and there are cut 2x4s between them as nailer for the sheetrock. I figured while not typical, the "second-sill" could be used as the sheetrock nailer instead.


Last edited by EvanVanVan; 03-19-17 at 07:19 AM.
 
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03-19-17, 07:22 AM   #2 (permalink)  
Sounds like if they are that bad you should remove and replace. Sawzall nails is the way to go. Construction adhesive can be used between new studs and sheathing in the event you can't renail sheathing right now for some reason. Your double bottom plate may be a good idea if your subfloor will entirely cover the first one.

 
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03-19-17, 11:05 AM   #3 (permalink)  
Cool, thanks for the help. I like the suggestion of construction adhesive as it won't rattle/disturb the sheathing/tiles as much as nailing/screws would.

When you say "if your subfloor will entirely cover the first one," you mean have the 3/4" plywood floor flush with the outside edge of the 2x6 sill (and so it's up against the outside sheathing)? Then put the 2x4 on top of it? I'm not entirely sure of the proper order of these things. Originally I was just going to put the 2x4 on top of the sill and have 2" of 2x6 left as nailer for the subfloor, but I guess that would only leave me with .75" of nailer for the sheetrock.

Regarding sealing the sill plate, at first I was just planning on caulking the bottom of the sill plate, but I see there's Protecto Wrap Triple Guard. It seems similar to GAF Stormguard (GAF | StormGuard Water & Ice Shield) which I have left over. Could I use that in conjunction with a roll of foam sill sealer (Owens Corning Foam SealR Sill Plate Gasket 5-1/2 in. x 50 ft.-2FS - The Home Depot) instead of the Triple Guard? (I also have GAF Liberty SBS base sheet or flashing tape (Nashua Tape 6 in. x 50 ft. Select Window and Door Flashing Tape-1343003 - The Home Depot) if either of those are closer)

Thanks

 
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03-19-17, 11:35 AM   #4 (permalink)  
No I just meant that if the total thickness of your subfloor buried the sill plate, you could plan to double it. Nothing wrong with that.

The only one of those products I have used is the sill gasket. IMO it's sufficient.

 
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03-19-17, 03:24 PM   #5 (permalink)  
Thanks for the help!

I wanted to start today, but took too long at Home Depot, next weekend it is. :/

 
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03-21-17, 04:45 AM   #6 (permalink)  
I never really explained why I was concerned with the use of a leak barrier to further protect the sill plate/foam gasket, etc. It's because unfortunately none of it is 16"+ above-grade and it doesn't extend over the concrete slab to form any sort of drip edge...

As a sort of continuation to this thread (but in the correct sub-section): http://www.doityourself.com/forum/ro...ml#post2611032

Thanks!

 
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