Oven ignites far too often


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Old 02-28-14, 11:43 AM
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Oven ignites far too often

Maytag
MGR577QDB
7-9 years old

I just replaced the bake ignitor in the bottom of the oven a few days ago. Worked fine the first few times I've used it.

This morning, I pre-heated it to 350F, popped some food in. After the oven reached temp, I immediately noticed the oven ignite again, go for 5-10 seconds, turn off for 10 seconds or so, ignite for 5-10 seconds, turn off. It did this three or four times, the ignitor turning on and off each time. I turned the oven off, waited a few seconds and turned it back to 350. Beeped at 350 immediately. I stood there for about a minute and didn't notice anything strange. Checked it periodically over the 25 min bake and didn't notice anything. It ignited every 2-3 minutes for 10-15 seconds each time, which is about normal for that oven.

Used the oven later in the day, and it did it for the entire 30 minutes the oven was on. After oven was heated, it would ignite and heat for about 20 seconds, turn off for about a minute, then ignite again. It ignited probably 20 times during the 25 minutes it took to bake a pizza.
 
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Old 02-28-14, 05:42 PM
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It's not always easy to tell if the burner is lighting too often. I use a thermometer probe connected to my digital test meter to watch the temperature swing. You can use a regular oven thermometer too. Place it in a place inside the oven where you can see it without opening the door.

You should be able to determine a swing range where the burner operates. Erratic temperatures could mean a weak igniter or possible heat sensor.
 
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Old 02-28-14, 06:32 PM
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Correction: model # is MGR5775QDB

It is easy to tell when the burner goes on and off. There is an easily noticeable click from the control panel when it turns the burner on, and when it turns it off. The glow from the ignitor is easily seen. The sound of the gas is loud enough to tell when it is flowing or not.

The symptoms I noted in my first post are accurate. The ignitor glows and the gas turns on each time.

As far as I can tell, there isn't any noticeable temperature swing. Food seems to cook at a normal rate, but I'm really worried about what parts could wear out if I continue using the oven this way.
 
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Old 02-28-14, 07:23 PM
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There are two parts that determine when the burner should light. One is the temperature sensor and the other is the control board. The board monitors the temp thru the sensor and calculates when the burner should operate. If it were something I was working on.... I'd try changing the sensor probe.

I wouldn't change the control board.

The igniter takes most of the abuse in the system.
 
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Old 02-28-14, 07:54 PM
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Is there a way to test either of those? I have a multimeter.
 
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Old 03-01-14, 01:56 AM
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You can check the temp sensor with an ohmmeter. You can find the wires at the control board or behind the oven. On P1 at the control board...the wires would be white and connected to pins 1and 3. Unplug the plug from the board before testing at that location.

The oven sensor should measure near 1050 ohms +/- 10 percent at room temperature.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vWJOLFW2aw0#t=17
 
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Old 03-01-14, 06:18 AM
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How would I test the control board? I'd rather not buy a temp sensor, then find out the control board is bad. And if I'm going to pull out the unit, I'd like to test both parts if I can.

Perhaps the control board could use a cleaning with some contact cleaner? There are two hairline cracks in the plastic cover.

Just used the oven at 400F. The temperature is a bit off. At one point I turned it off and back on, and the temp registered at 430.
 

Last edited by unknownsoldierx; 03-01-14 at 06:39 AM.
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Old 03-01-14, 09:55 AM
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There really isn't a way to test the control board. If the sensor checks out ok and you still have what you consider "short cycling" then it only leaves the control board. Most online sources sell parts with a warranty so that you can return them if they are not the problem.
 
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Old 03-01-14, 01:47 PM
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I'm not sure the control board would be worth it. Cheapest I can find it is $175, or $145 for "compatibles" or refurbs.

Would the oven need any calibration/adjustment with a new board?
 
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Old 03-02-14, 08:21 PM
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Did you install a carborundum instead of a norton igniter per chance. Or the other way
 
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Old 03-23-14, 05:04 PM
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Finally got around to testing the sensor. Probes couldn't fit into the connector at the control panel, but the connector on the sensor wasn't too hard to get to and the probes barely fit. Set my Fluke multimeter to 200Ω and got no reading. Display stayed at 0L. So it looks like the sensor is definitely bad.

How does the oven work, and stay within 30F of the target temp if the sensor is totally dead?
 
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Old 03-23-14, 08:32 PM
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Finally got around to pulling the oven out and testing the sensor. Wasn't able to get the probes on my multimeter to fit in the connector at the control panel, but the other end was easy to get to. Probes barely fit in the connector at the sensor. Set my Fluke to 200Ω and got nothing, 0L.

I guess this means the sensor is completely dead and not doing anything at all? Weird that the oven still works and doesn't go more than 30F beyond the target temp.
 
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Old 03-28-14, 12:01 PM
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The old igniter was a Norton. I ordered the part on Amazon by the part number. Pretty sure the one I received is a Carborundum or a similar name, definitely not a Norton. What is the difference?
 
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Old 03-28-14, 12:25 PM
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I installed a new temp sensor. Came in genuine Whirlpool packaging. "Short cycling" problem persists.

Turns out I didn't test the old probe properly. I had a hard time getting the probes into the connector when it was out the back of the oven. Thought I got it, though. Guess not. I tested the old probe again, after installing the new one, and got ~1063 ohms. New one tested around 1080.

I'm thinking, with the age of the oven, I may as well keep the new sensor as it could be due to go out in the future.

Could the Carborundum brand igniter cause a problem?

I found a brand new control panel for $125-130. I'm thinking it's worth it compared to buying a whole new stove.
 
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Old 03-29-14, 08:32 PM
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If it is a carborundum it has different values. Are you able to take an amperage read?
Norton amp range..3.2--3.6. Volts at valve range 3.03---3.3
Carborundum range 2.5--3.0. Volts at valve range. 3.3--4.0
 
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Old 03-29-14, 08:52 PM
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I don't know how to do that. I can take it apart again to see what the tag on it says. I know it's not a Norton though, because I noticed that when I swapped them.

Is it safe to say that I should try to exchange the igniter for a Norton?
 
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Old 03-29-14, 08:57 PM
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It doesn't have to say Norton but it needs to be the flat style. I believe the carborundum ones are round.

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Old 03-30-14, 03:33 PM
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Look at the oven gas valve, it will give the values on a paper sticker that I believe is yellow and black. There is a flat igniter that is a carborundum, however it has a blue band around the ceramic.
 
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Old 04-07-14, 01:39 PM
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Finally got around to taking some pics of the igniter. Not sure what you mean be flat style, but it looks about the same as the one you posted, except that the gap in the center looks to be much longer on mine.

I don't see a blue band, would it be on the white part at the base?
 
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Old 04-07-14, 08:11 PM
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I'd say you have proper one, did you look on the gas valve? Some of the stickers even show a picture of the igniter along with the values.
 
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Old 04-13-14, 01:11 PM
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Where is this gas valve? I pulled all the panels off the back and didn't see any labels on the gas line and the label on the valve at the wall just lists safety info. The wiring diagram pamphlet doesn't have any parts info.

The new igniter has a CoorsTek label.
 
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Old 04-13-14, 02:11 PM
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Normally the gas valves come as their own part. Yours comes with some type of heat shield system. May be difficult to see the valve itself.

Sears/image/PD_0022_335_12002604.png

If your burner lights and it looks like a nice even flame then I'd say you have the proper igniter there and that is not your problem.
 
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Old 04-25-14, 11:43 PM
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Bit the bullet and ordered a new control panel. Lucked out and found a new one on eBay for $100. Fingers crossed that it will be the end of it.

Thanks for all the help, guys.
 
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Old 04-28-14, 05:45 PM
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Installed the new control panel. After the pre-heat, it ignites at somewhat irregular intervals. I timed it once at 80 seconds between ignitions, and once at 110 seconds. Fires for about 50 seconds each time.

Never paid close attention to the oven before it broke, so I'm not sure what is normal. But I'm assuming since it is functioning much better now, it is fixed.
 
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Old 04-28-14, 06:08 PM
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That sounds about normal. The less you have in the oven the fewer times it will relight. It will usually relight at 25 degrees below set temperature and turn off at 10 degrees above set temperature.

I have a heat sensor probe for my meter with a long thin metal jacket. Great for watching the operation of the thermostat. You can put an oven thermometer on the top shelf and watch it thru the glass.
 
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Old 04-28-14, 07:03 PM
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I check the temp by turning the oven temp up. The display shows the set temperature, but when I set a higher temp, the display shows the current temp, or close enough I think. Checked it twice while using it for the first time tonight. Had the oven set to 400. Once it was at 420 and a short time later it was at 410.

I've been meaning to get an oven thermometer for a while, before all this, just to see if it needs calibrating. Baked some rolls tonight, and so far so good.

I think I may be paranoid and over-thinking things since I messed with it for so long.
 
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Old 04-28-14, 07:15 PM
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I think some more baking is in order
 
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Old 04-28-14, 07:21 PM
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Absolutely. We've got a backlog of recipes to bake and roast.

Thanks for all the help.
 
 

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