HE260 16% humidity with heater on
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01-14-12, 09:18 PM #1
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HE260 16% humidity with heater on
Hey Everyone,
I just installed the Honeywell HE260 and the installation was easy and not an issue. But now when I run the heater my house does not seem to increase in humidity. I did a test and placed a humidity tester on a vent downstairs in my house. 16% humidity at best when the heater is running... Turned off the heat and had the fan running only. Humidity 40% and climbing within 5 mins.
HE260 is located on the return above the filters. The other end is on the supply. Could the humidified air be evaporated as it passes through the furnace and up the supply?
thanks
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01-15-12, 05:00 AM #2
Yes the heated dry air is mixing with the humidifed air
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01-15-12, 06:06 AM #3
You are going to get a lower reading at the vent. When that air gets into the room and cools down the humidity then rises.
-Jay
If you can do it, We can help.
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01-15-12, 08:01 AM #4
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thanks for the replies everyone. The only issue with that is that the humidity in the house is sitting at about 37% which is what it was before I installed the HE260.
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01-15-12, 08:12 AM #5
You may need to try tightening you house by adding more insulation and making sure all door seals are in good shape and that the windows are also not leaking. It may not be your humidifier that is the problem. However, did you plumb the humidifier to hot or cold water? Hot water will put more humidity in the air.
it is what it is 
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01-15-12, 08:17 AM #6
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Hi... the house I believe is pretty tight. It's only about 3 years old and even without heaters on the house doesn't get that cold to fast. One question. I just got off the phone with Honeywell and they told me that because my house is 2500sq feet plus a two story house with 9ft ceilings that this humidifier will not work. Is that a correct answer?
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01-15-12, 08:33 AM #7
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forgot to answer this part. cold water
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01-15-12, 08:42 AM #8
the humidifier is small for that size home. A powered humidifier or a larger bypass would be beneficial. Before you go to that expense though I would recommend switching to hot water and try that first. BTW, where is your humidistat located? And what is it set on?
it is what it is 
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01-15-12, 08:49 AM #9
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great suggestion. I will give that a try. What other models could I look into so that i can use my current setup? i don't have a big enough spot on my supply (warm air) for an HE360.
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01-15-12, 09:02 AM #10
Aprilaire 500 will do a tightly constructed home up to 3000 sqf
aprilaire 600 will do a tightly constructed home up to 4000 sqf
if you can fit the 600 I would use that one.
http://www.aprilaire.com/themes/aa/e...ifications.pdf
it is what it is 
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01-15-12, 09:12 AM #11
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do you think that the installation kit from the HE260 will work on the 600? or would i just return all of that and get stuff for the aprilaire models?
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01-15-12, 09:19 AM #12
if the dimensions work for you to mount it where the 260 is..... The bypass piping should be 6 inch on the 260 same as the 600. Everything should work. You will get a new humidistat but that doesnt have to be used. Are you seeing water come out of the drain of the 260 while it is running? BTW, where is your humidistat located? And what is it set on?
it is what it is 
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01-15-12, 09:28 AM #13
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Cool. I do see water and my humidistat is set to 50. Both sail switch and humidistat are on the cold return. When the heater is on the HE260 is always running.
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01-15-12, 09:35 AM #14
ok, then I would try using hot water
it is what it is 
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01-15-12, 10:03 AM #15
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thanks for the information. I will give that a shot. My hot water is not easy because there isn't any real exposed pipes to use. Just a 3" plastic piece that I can see. Will the aprilaire unit require hot or if it fits I can just replace the HE260 and this new unit should just do more for the house right?
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01-15-12, 10:17 AM #16
It should do more for the house. However, when I install humidifiers I only use hot water. There is a reason for that. Is your water heater not near your furnace? I only ask because most are in the same utility room as the furnace.
it is what it is 
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01-15-12, 10:43 AM #17
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It is for sure. It's just that the water heater has that curved pipe coming out of it and then about 3" of plastic pipe as it enters the wall of the house. That's it.
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01-15-12, 11:10 AM #18
be careful with the plastic piping or you may want to add a Tee if possible to put in a valve just for the humidifier. Those saddle valves tend to plug up over time.
it is what it is 
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01-15-12, 11:14 AM #19
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yeah... a T is what i'm thinking.. just don't know where to T into :)
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01-15-12, 11:23 AM #20
post a picture if you can. How to Post Photos.
it is what it is 
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01-15-12, 11:51 AM #21
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I don't want to sidetrack the effort here, but the numbers don't seem right. First, 37% RH isn't all that bad so the statement that what you have isn't going to work doesn't seem right. If all you need is a little help, then a small humidifier should do the trick. The fact that you see no increase implies the unit isn't working correctly.
HVAC touched on the leaky home issue and that is where the problem starts. ALL homes exchange air, 1/3 of all inside air every hour is considered right where you want to be, however, it takes a specific effort from a builder to get one that tight. Yes, they can be made a lot tighter, but then they run high RH numbers. So, your RH is actually a measure of how tight your home is. As for some basic steps to tighten it up, I'll attach a link from Efficiency Vermont. The big and easy leaks should be enough to eliminate that humidifier all together, perhaps. If not, it will at least save on heating costs and you can still add a humidifier if necessary.
http://www.efficiencyvermont.com/ste...ide_062507.pdf
Reducing your air leakage will increase your RH, and yours isn't that bad to start.
Bud
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01-15-12, 02:47 PM #22
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01-15-12, 05:39 PM #23
I might add to what Jay said about where you are reading your humidity.
You will drive yourself crazy if you move your hygrometer to different locations to take readings.
The readings most definitely will swing wildly if you sample different temperatures.
I will second that you likely don't have as many problems as you would think.
You have not put at least your state in your profile and I don't see if you said where you live but to me your humidity levels seem just fine.
If you put your hygrometer in your living room, set the humidistat to 30% and let the humidifier run for several days your problems may disappear.GregH...HVAC/R Tech
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01-15-12, 06:40 PM #24
I agree with Greg, set your set point and it may take a few days to "catch" up since the humidity is getting "soaked" into the woodworks and other stuff in the house.
Also, do you have an air exchanger/HRV/ERV system in your home?-Jay
If you can do it, We can help.
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02-09-12, 09:24 AM #25
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Noob question here: Isn't the inside RH relevant to the outside temp as far as adding more to it? Does it max out at one point unless you add it by maybe means of steam? Like I said noob here :)
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