2005 ford escape 3.0L v6 got no guts
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2005 ford escape 3.0L v6 got no guts
Hi Guys,
Girlfriend and I went on vacation in her 2005 escape. We get to a moderate grade, and the thing has no guts. Had it floored and was struggling to maintain 25 mph, even if I kept it in a lower gear at 4000 rpms. We took it into the nearest place (ford dealership) where they said their diagnostics said new spark plugs should do the trick. They said they would be happy to do it for $600(!!!)--I decided to limp it home and try to same some money. The rig has 138k on it, and besides oil changes, she hasn't had anything done. I changed the air filter (which was filthy), replaced the spark plugs (which looked awful) with autolite iridiums, and replaced the fuel filter (which was nasty). I also ran some fuel injector cleaner through it.
The problem has not been fixed. It's still running terribly. It fires right up when started cold, and the high idle is fine. When it drops to the low idle, however it starts running really rough. It still has no power and if the engine is warm, it starts rough. Also, when I'm at really low RPMs, it occasionally feels like the power brakes don't function properly--the brakes work, but the pedal is less smooth and harder to press. To me, when this happens it feels like the soft, consistent, pneumatic resistance from the pedal is no longer there.
At this point I am completely lost and have no idea what my next step is. Any advice you all could provide would be more than appreciated!
Thanks!
Girlfriend and I went on vacation in her 2005 escape. We get to a moderate grade, and the thing has no guts. Had it floored and was struggling to maintain 25 mph, even if I kept it in a lower gear at 4000 rpms. We took it into the nearest place (ford dealership) where they said their diagnostics said new spark plugs should do the trick. They said they would be happy to do it for $600(!!!)--I decided to limp it home and try to same some money. The rig has 138k on it, and besides oil changes, she hasn't had anything done. I changed the air filter (which was filthy), replaced the spark plugs (which looked awful) with autolite iridiums, and replaced the fuel filter (which was nasty). I also ran some fuel injector cleaner through it.
The problem has not been fixed. It's still running terribly. It fires right up when started cold, and the high idle is fine. When it drops to the low idle, however it starts running really rough. It still has no power and if the engine is warm, it starts rough. Also, when I'm at really low RPMs, it occasionally feels like the power brakes don't function properly--the brakes work, but the pedal is less smooth and harder to press. To me, when this happens it feels like the soft, consistent, pneumatic resistance from the pedal is no longer there.
At this point I am completely lost and have no idea what my next step is. Any advice you all could provide would be more than appreciated!
Thanks!
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Yeah, quite a bit. It's like someone took the car it once was and attached a fully loaded horse trailer. It used to be capable of using the passing lanes while going up hills, and now it's barely capable of crawling up the shoulder with the hazards on.
#4
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The dealership was apparently wrong about spark plugs resolving the issue but has anyone checked the computer for codes since then?
#6
You did the plugs yourself? I had a 2001 Tribute (same basic car) and it required intake removal. Did you replace the seals on the intake? A Member once mentioned that in the past.
I'm not sure but it seems like a bad vacuum leak might cause some of these issues, esp when you mention the brakes.
I'm not sure but it seems like a bad vacuum leak might cause some of these issues, esp when you mention the brakes.
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Changing plugs did require removing the intake manifold. I did not replace the gasket. When I took it into the dealership the service engine light was not on, because I had just disconnected a battery terminal prior to taking it in. The service engine light is now back on. I have not had it hooked up to a computer since working on it since I've been trying to take care of as much as possible on my own.
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https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/..._162220066.jpg
I hooked it up to a computer and got two errors, both of which were the same code. I put the address of a photo I took of the scanner with my computer so you guys could see the error code. I'm thinking catalytic converter :-/....what would your next move be?
I hooked it up to a computer and got two errors, both of which were the same code. I put the address of a photo I took of the scanner with my computer so you guys could see the error code. I'm thinking catalytic converter :-/....what would your next move be?
#11
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Drilling a hole in it as a test isn't necessarily a bad thing but it would mean you should be replacing it even if that made no difference and therefore ruined a perfectly good one.
#12
Uh oh. If it's the cat(s) this is not an easy or cheap job. These are built into the exhaust manifolds. You can get both for about $400 or individually for about $250. Then the real fun begins. Another stupid design.
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Thanks guys. The code indicates a problem with the EGR rather than explicitly having to do with cat converter (p0420). Is it possible that it's just a stuck valve or faulty sensor?
#14
P0402 = Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow (EGR) Excessive Detected
A faulty DPFE sensor (Delta Pressure Feedback of EGR) is a common problem with the Escapes. It's almost impossible to test so it just gets replaced.
A good article on the DPFE sensor.
Delta Pressure Feedback of EGR (DPFE Sensor) - Great Idea, Bad Factory Designs
A faulty DPFE sensor (Delta Pressure Feedback of EGR) is a common problem with the Escapes. It's almost impossible to test so it just gets replaced.
A good article on the DPFE sensor.
Delta Pressure Feedback of EGR (DPFE Sensor) - Great Idea, Bad Factory Designs
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I found this guide, which I plan to follow to systematically test the EGR component by component:
Part 1 -How to Test the Ford EGR Valve EGR Vacuum Solenoid, DPFE Sensor
I'm hoping the problems we're experiencing are due to the EGR valve, pressure sensor, or solenoid. I really don't want it to be 1, 2, or 3 of the cat converters
Thanks agian for all your input!
Part 1 -How to Test the Ford EGR Valve EGR Vacuum Solenoid, DPFE Sensor
I'm hoping the problems we're experiencing are due to the EGR valve, pressure sensor, or solenoid. I really don't want it to be 1, 2, or 3 of the cat converters
Thanks agian for all your input!
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Hey guys, I had something come up, so wasn't able to get to this as quickly as I would like. Here's an update.
I removed the vacuum line going directly to the EGR. The idle immediately improved. Then I hooked a vacuum pump up to the EGR. When I put a vacuum on it the rough idle returned. The vacuum pressure did not stay steady, but quickly decreased. I checked the connections between the hose and pump and hose and nipple on EGR and I don't think that's where the vaccuum pressure was escaping. I interpreted this as a bad diaphragm in the EGR Valve. Then I hooked the vacuum line back up and headed to auto part store to pick up a new EGR valve. TO my surprise, the car was running remarkably better on the way to the Napa. Unfortunatley, we got hit with a crazy storm while I was in the sotre, and the power went out. I didn't end up buying the part.
So now, the car is running A LOT better. Also, the check engine light hasn't returned, though it's probably only been driven 30-50 miles. I'm wondering if somehow I inadvertently cleared a blockage somewhere when testing the EGR valve initially. Does this make sense? I'm still planning on spending the $50 for a new valve and replacing that in the next day or two. While I have the old valve removed, I'll check where I can for built up carbon.
Does it sound to you guys like this is good to go when I replace the EGR valve? Is my diagnosis of a bad diaphragm inside correct? Thanks a gain for all your help!
I removed the vacuum line going directly to the EGR. The idle immediately improved. Then I hooked a vacuum pump up to the EGR. When I put a vacuum on it the rough idle returned. The vacuum pressure did not stay steady, but quickly decreased. I checked the connections between the hose and pump and hose and nipple on EGR and I don't think that's where the vaccuum pressure was escaping. I interpreted this as a bad diaphragm in the EGR Valve. Then I hooked the vacuum line back up and headed to auto part store to pick up a new EGR valve. TO my surprise, the car was running remarkably better on the way to the Napa. Unfortunatley, we got hit with a crazy storm while I was in the sotre, and the power went out. I didn't end up buying the part.
So now, the car is running A LOT better. Also, the check engine light hasn't returned, though it's probably only been driven 30-50 miles. I'm wondering if somehow I inadvertently cleared a blockage somewhere when testing the EGR valve initially. Does this make sense? I'm still planning on spending the $50 for a new valve and replacing that in the next day or two. While I have the old valve removed, I'll check where I can for built up carbon.
Does it sound to you guys like this is good to go when I replace the EGR valve? Is my diagnosis of a bad diaphragm inside correct? Thanks a gain for all your help!
#18
a stuck egr valve can cause a rough idle and hard brakes as they should not be open at idle but I don't really think this is all your problem with power loss at 4000 rpm the egr has very little effect on the engine at higher rpm and mainly work at cruising speeds.
so you may still have some issues with the power loss and exhaust restriction from a bad cat or even fuel pressure loss may be causing this.
so you may still have some issues with the power loss and exhaust restriction from a bad cat or even fuel pressure loss may be causing this.
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Does it make any sense that simply unhooking and then reattaching the vacuum line from EGR valve after testing would result in the car running MUCH better?
After changing the plugs, fuel filter, air filter etc. simply fidgiting with the vacuum line has made the most improvement
After changing the plugs, fuel filter, air filter etc. simply fidgiting with the vacuum line has made the most improvement