Patch sheet rock - hand rail mount


  #1  
Old 02-21-17, 07:37 AM
G
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 37
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Talking Patch sheet rock - hand rail mount

Hi,

My wife slipped on the stairs and caught herself on the hand rail. The rail held, but it did a number on the sheet rock where it is mounted.

I cut a ~4" x 4" square around the mounting area, slid a ~10" 1x4 furring strip behind the sheetrock, and secured it to the rest of the wall with about 5 screws above and below the hole.

Then I realized I could/should have put adhesive on the furring strip as well to help secure it to the back of the sheet rock.

Better to loosen the screws and get some adhesive back there, or better to leave it as-is and not be screwing & unscrewing the support? I'm worried about pulverizing the sheet rock from futzing with it.

Thank you!!
Timothy
 
  #2  
Old 02-21-17, 07:41 AM
P
Group Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: NC, USA
Posts: 27,651
Received 2,152 Upvotes on 1,927 Posts
I understand putting a square of wood around the bracket mounting area so you don't have sheetrock between the bracket and stud. I don't understand where the 1 x 4" is that you mention?
 
  #3  
Old 02-21-17, 08:10 AM
G
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 37
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Hi!

it is a short rail (only 2-3 steps), there is no stud available (the other bracket is in a stud), so it was mounted into the sheet rock with toggle bolts. the wood furring strip i put in is behind the sheetrock - between sheetrock and insulation. I'll cut a square patch of sheet rock and then re-mount.

timothy
 
  #4  
Old 02-21-17, 08:19 AM
pugsl's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: United States
Posts: 8,161
Received 77 Upvotes on 70 Posts
I would get 1/2 or 3/4 plywood and but as big of a piece as you can get into hole. Even make hole larger it needed. Put plywood in and screw if on both sides of hole. Mount drywall on plywood and that mount rail to plywood through the drywall. This will give you a larger and stronger mount. Thinking about it put plywood up and down in wall give as much area you can to screw it to inside of wall. Glue also on plywood will help to. Trying to stop rail pulling out.
 
  #5  
Old 02-21-17, 09:21 AM
G
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 37
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
I would get 1/2 or 3/4 plywood and but as big of a piece as you can get into hole. Even make hole larger it needed. Put plywood in and screw if on both sides of hole. Mount drywall on plywood and that mount rail to plywood through the drywall. This will give you a larger and stronger mount. Thinking about it put plywood up and down in wall give as much area you can to screw it to inside of wall. Glue also on plywood will help to. Trying to stop rail pulling out.
This is what I've done. My question is:

I forgot the glue. Is it worth it to loosen up the ten (10) screws I've used to secure it in order to get glue in there, or is that more damage than it's worth to the sheetrock from loosening and tightening the screws up?
 
  #6  
Old 02-21-17, 10:31 AM
M
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA - N.E.Tn
Posts: 45,659
Received 835 Upvotes on 732 Posts
IMO adding the adhesive at this time wouldn't be worth the effort.
 
  #7  
Old 02-21-17, 02:53 PM
czizzi's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 6,541
Received 15 Upvotes on 13 Posts
You need cross blocking like a 2x8 that goes from stud to stud and is securely fastened to those studs for a handrail to meet any kind of code requirement the sheet rock over that. Mounting to drywall only (and a patch for that matter) is not safe by any means.
 
  #8  
Old 02-22-17, 02:58 AM
M
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA - N.E.Tn
Posts: 45,659
Received 835 Upvotes on 732 Posts
I assume the handrail brackets were screwed into a stud and that the drywall repair was because either the screw holes were wallowed out or not long enough. IF the handrail isn't secured to framing - that needs to be addressed!
 
  #9  
Old 02-22-17, 05:46 AM
czizzi's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 6,541
Received 15 Upvotes on 13 Posts
there is no stud available (the other bracket is in a stud), so it was mounted into the sheet rock with toggle bolts.
Not to code and unsafe as you have found out already. If doing a patch, simply make it bigger so you can let in some cross bracing. No more work than you were already planning on doing.
 
  #10  
Old 02-22-17, 05:49 AM
Norm201's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 10,956
Received 721 Upvotes on 640 Posts
Marksr is correct. I had a similar problem when my upper stairs rail became loose. The hole stated to wallow (as Marksr says, never heard that term before?). Two possible remedies. Refill the hole on the stud with a bonding wood filler (can't think of the name, not just plain wood filler), or slip in wood sliver or splints to let the lag screw to bite into. OR, relocate the rail slightly up or down from the original mounting holes. Yes, I know there are specific s rules as to where a rail should be located, but an inch or two up or down will not be a problem. Also the proper lag screw of proper size and length should be used, not just a wood screw.
 
  #11  
Old 02-22-17, 06:32 AM
M
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA - N.E.Tn
Posts: 45,659
Received 835 Upvotes on 732 Posts
was mounted into the sheet rock with toggle bolts.
Some how I missed that

The bracket can be moved up/down the handrail until it meets a stud. If that can't be done you need to open the wall up enough to add adequate framing.
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: