Patch sheet rock - hand rail mount
#1
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Patch sheet rock - hand rail mount
Hi,
My wife slipped on the stairs and caught herself on the hand rail. The rail held, but it did a number on the sheet rock where it is mounted.
I cut a ~4" x 4" square around the mounting area, slid a ~10" 1x4 furring strip behind the sheetrock, and secured it to the rest of the wall with about 5 screws above and below the hole.
Then I realized I could/should have put adhesive on the furring strip as well to help secure it to the back of the sheet rock.
Better to loosen the screws and get some adhesive back there, or better to leave it as-is and not be screwing & unscrewing the support? I'm worried about pulverizing the sheet rock from futzing with it.
Thank you!!
Timothy
My wife slipped on the stairs and caught herself on the hand rail. The rail held, but it did a number on the sheet rock where it is mounted.
I cut a ~4" x 4" square around the mounting area, slid a ~10" 1x4 furring strip behind the sheetrock, and secured it to the rest of the wall with about 5 screws above and below the hole.
Then I realized I could/should have put adhesive on the furring strip as well to help secure it to the back of the sheet rock.
Better to loosen the screws and get some adhesive back there, or better to leave it as-is and not be screwing & unscrewing the support? I'm worried about pulverizing the sheet rock from futzing with it.
Thank you!!
Timothy
#2
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I understand putting a square of wood around the bracket mounting area so you don't have sheetrock between the bracket and stud. I don't understand where the 1 x 4" is that you mention?
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Hi!
it is a short rail (only 2-3 steps), there is no stud available (the other bracket is in a stud), so it was mounted into the sheet rock with toggle bolts. the wood furring strip i put in is behind the sheetrock - between sheetrock and insulation. I'll cut a square patch of sheet rock and then re-mount.
timothy
it is a short rail (only 2-3 steps), there is no stud available (the other bracket is in a stud), so it was mounted into the sheet rock with toggle bolts. the wood furring strip i put in is behind the sheetrock - between sheetrock and insulation. I'll cut a square patch of sheet rock and then re-mount.
timothy
#4
I would get 1/2 or 3/4 plywood and but as big of a piece as you can get into hole. Even make hole larger it needed. Put plywood in and screw if on both sides of hole. Mount drywall on plywood and that mount rail to plywood through the drywall. This will give you a larger and stronger mount. Thinking about it put plywood up and down in wall give as much area you can to screw it to inside of wall. Glue also on plywood will help to. Trying to stop rail pulling out.
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I would get 1/2 or 3/4 plywood and but as big of a piece as you can get into hole. Even make hole larger it needed. Put plywood in and screw if on both sides of hole. Mount drywall on plywood and that mount rail to plywood through the drywall. This will give you a larger and stronger mount. Thinking about it put plywood up and down in wall give as much area you can to screw it to inside of wall. Glue also on plywood will help to. Trying to stop rail pulling out.
I forgot the glue. Is it worth it to loosen up the ten (10) screws I've used to secure it in order to get glue in there, or is that more damage than it's worth to the sheetrock from loosening and tightening the screws up?
#7
You need cross blocking like a 2x8 that goes from stud to stud and is securely fastened to those studs for a handrail to meet any kind of code requirement the sheet rock over that. Mounting to drywall only (and a patch for that matter) is not safe by any means.
#8
Forum Topic Moderator
I assume the handrail brackets were screwed into a stud and that the drywall repair was because either the screw holes were wallowed out or not long enough. IF the handrail isn't secured to framing - that needs to be addressed!
#9
there is no stud available (the other bracket is in a stud), so it was mounted into the sheet rock with toggle bolts.
#10
Marksr is correct. I had a similar problem when my upper stairs rail became loose. The hole stated to wallow (as Marksr says, never heard that term before?). Two possible remedies. Refill the hole on the stud with a bonding wood filler (can't think of the name, not just plain wood filler), or slip in wood sliver or splints to let the lag screw to bite into. OR, relocate the rail slightly up or down from the original mounting holes. Yes, I know there are specific s rules as to where a rail should be located, but an inch or two up or down will not be a problem. Also the proper lag screw of proper size and length should be used, not just a wood screw.
#11
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was mounted into the sheet rock with toggle bolts.
The bracket can be moved up/down the handrail until it meets a stud. If that can't be done you need to open the wall up enough to add adequate framing.