Bleeding brake caliper


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Old 06-29-15, 09:23 AM
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Bleeding brake caliper

Changed rear pads and rotors on 2005 GMC Safari. Passenger rear side locks up. Determined the caliper is sticking. How hard is it to bleed the brakes on just this caliper if replacing or will I need to bleed the whole system? Can I do this by myself?
 
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Old 06-29-15, 11:01 AM
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You can likely get by with just bleeding that wheel. They sell a tool for solo bleeding but I don't own nor have ever used one. Usually it isn't too hard to find someone to pump the brake pedal and help you bleed them
 
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Old 06-29-15, 12:08 PM
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The guy at the store suggested I do a gravity bleed. Since this is the wheel that is furthest from MC he said to lower that wheel without tire on it as far as possible (remove jack stands and jack). Open valve and it may take about a 1/2 hour but the gravity will flow out that valve and push any air along with it. Just keep an eye on the MC to keep it full.

I'm trying that now.
 
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Old 06-29-15, 01:16 PM
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I've done that quite a bit and it does help but usually doesn't do as good as the old fashion bleeding.
 
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Old 06-29-15, 02:13 PM
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This time it worked well. Next step is the front pads and rotors. Problem is the damn tire shop torqued one of the lug nuts so bad I can't remove it. Bent the tee wrench, broke two Craftsman ratchet wrenches. Need to go and make them loosen it. Another job for another day.
 
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Old 06-29-15, 02:16 PM
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Do you have a breaker bar? ..... never a bad time to buy more tools unless you are broke
 
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Old 06-29-15, 02:32 PM
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I put a 24" pipe on the end of both ratchets. It took care of all the others but not that last one. Just stripped the ratchet. Anyway, Sears replaced them with the Craftsman warranty. I also pick-up 5 pc boxed end offset ratcheting metric wrenches. Ten different sizes.
 
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Old 06-29-15, 02:37 PM
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Two things: When you use a pipe for more leverage, do it on a breaker bar as marksr suggested.

For future reference, when a caliper locks, sometimes it's the rubber hose not the caliper.
 
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Old 06-29-15, 02:39 PM
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Don't know if I've ever put a cheater pipe on a ratchet but have done so many times with a breaker bar .... broke one once with a 6' cheater pipe removing the axle nut on my tractor. That was probably 20 yrs ago, Sears replaced it no problem but would you believe I had to change a flat tire on my trailer a few days ago and the little ball on end of that replaced breaker bar jumped out. Tried finding it with a magnet but no luck, not sure if would go back in anyway .... so I'll have to find time to head to Sears sometime

edit; they don't have the rubber hose on the rear, do they? Most of the time that is the culprit on the front - least ways the ones I've worked on.
 
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Old 06-29-15, 02:54 PM
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Yes, there is a rubber hose on this particular van.

I don't see how the rubber connecting hose could cause a seized caliper. Explain.

When I originally compressed the piston with a clamp it went in smoothly, but apparently the outside diameter on the end was corroded or something. With the new pads on the piston would not release the caliper and each peddle press would just jam that brake. The new one works well. But I know I should've replaced both sides. But I don't have the time or at this point the inclination. I just want the darn van to take me to work tomorrow.
 
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Old 06-29-15, 02:58 PM
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Sometimes the hose will collapse and mimic a bad caliper.
 
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Old 06-29-15, 03:02 PM
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Is it s a one or two hose system to rear. If a 2 hose system the hose deteriorates inside and will work like a check valve. will let pressure in but not let it out. If that is the case the way to check is pump brake till wheel locks. let off brake pedal and than crack bleeder at frozen wheel. If wheel frees than it is hose, If wheel doesn't free than a stuck caliper. Single hose system both rear wheels will lock up (very rare)
 
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Old 06-29-15, 05:03 PM
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Marksr is correct with his explanation.

Sometimes the hose will collapse and mimic a bad caliper.
 
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Old 06-29-15, 09:00 PM
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Coming in a little late here but if it was working fine and now hangs up after pressing the pistons back in..... it's the caliper. I've seen the problem many times.
 
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Old 06-30-15, 03:32 AM
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PJ, you're correct. The pads were totally worn and the steel backing was almost cutting into the rotor. Rotors were badly grooved. The piston has been extended for the better part of five years. I'm sure the outer end had expanded and corroded via weathering so that when it was retracted it just got hung. Kind of surprised the driver side was not as bad. But it will be.

Also surprising is the fact that the connecting hoses were in very good shape. They looked very flexible and have no signs of cracks. They do have a protective plastic cover. The interesting thing about the van is that because it sits so high off the ground, the under carrige has little or no corrosion and always looks clean.
 
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Old 06-30-15, 04:43 AM
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Don't forget that it's the inside of a rubber hose that causes that problem which can't be see from the outside.
 
 

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