Remodel Rough-Plumbing Inspection


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Old 05-06-08, 11:03 PM
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Question Remodel Rough-Plumbing Inspection

Hi,

I'm remodeling my master bathroom, and I pulled all the necessary permits and everything (sometimes I wonder about the wisdom of that!), so now I have to get all the typical inspections. What I'm not sure about is what's really supposed to be done ahead of which inspections, and if it's any different for a remodel than for new construction. I plan to call and try to talk to the inspector, but I'd prefer to learn what's normal in advance so I can talk to him from an informed position.

So, what is supposed to be done before a typical rough plumbing inspection? Obviously, the supply and dwv lines are hooked up. But should the bathtub be installed? I can't hook up the bath drain without it, I don't think (or can I?). Should bath and shower drains be hooked up? Or can I just have a stub of ABS there? What should be done with the supplies? Are they just brought to near the right location and capped off? Or should the valves and stuff be all hooked up before the rough inspection? Is the shower pan supposed to be done and demonstrated to hold water?

Are things usually any different for a one-room remodel than for a whole new house? I mean, will I be expected to have the dwv lines inspected under test? How could I fill the system with water, since the drain lines are hooked into a whole house that isn't part of this permit?

Any information on this would be appreciated.

Thanks!
 
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Old 05-07-08, 03:49 AM
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Not sure where you are located (profile not filled out), so it will depend on your local inspection department. We, during a remodel, use test plugs and test caps on all dwv, not for testing purposes, but to keep the gasses out. We run supply and cap them off. He/she may want to see it after you have it all installed, but unlikely. Ask them questions now, and save a bunch of work later if you don't do it their way. Remember, they rule.
 
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Old 05-11-08, 02:59 PM
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As mentioned, it varies from locale to locale... I've always plumbed everything I possibly could as far as I possibly could prior to drywall/CBU. That includes tub installation with piping still visible as the walls haven't gone up yet. I've also been lucky, I guess, as I've never had to run a "visible test" on any DWV systems. I've always found that a clean workplace, organized work with easy to follow piping, slight overkill on things like strapping pipes/fittings, obvious primer on PVC, and an open mind when talking to the inspector in person - works wonders for getting past each inspection phase.
 
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Old 05-12-08, 12:11 AM
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Since you mentioned strapping, what, if anything, is supposed to be done to secure DWV pipes running under the floor within the joist bays? The existing lines that I replaced were basically just set there, laying on top of the ceiling below. On occasion, there was a piece of scrap wood or something set underneath one to set the slope. For the most part, though, the slope was set by the trap at the end of the line sitting on top if the ceiling below lifting the elevation a bit on that end of the line, and then it just sloped back from there to the point where it dropped down vertically. Is that how it should be done? Also, there was nothing really securing the pipe from moving back-and-forth side-to-side within the joist bay. Should there be?

Thanks!

By the way, I did call the inspector's office, and it sounds like I do need to have all shower valves and everything plumbed in. For the tub and shower pan, they basically said I can do it either way (either installed for the rough inspection or not).
 
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Old 05-12-08, 05:47 AM
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Perforated pipe strapping, either vinyl or metal, supporting your DWV pipes, at minimum, every 4 feet.

Copper pipe strapping for your copper pipes, again every 4 feet and at all bends.
 
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Old 05-12-08, 07:08 AM
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Good morning,

First off, where I come from, we use IPC code.
Horizontal hanger spacing on pvc is every 4', copper, 1 1/4" and under, is every 6' period, pex tubing is every 32".
Vertical hangers for PVC should be installed on each floor and sometimes every 4' depending on the inspector. Most inspectors just want a riser/friction clamp at the bottom of each riser.
Hangers are to be made of or coated with the same material as the pipe.
PVC pipe- pvc hangers or pvc coated hangers, wood blocking is also allowed. Not metal hangers or strapping unless coated. Riser clamps should be metal coated with plastic. Some inspectors will allow on the smaller pipes,(2" and 1 1/2") the use of plastic J-hooks glued to the pipe in lieu of riser clamps.
Copper pipe can be copper coated hangers, plastic or wood blocking. No steel hangers without coating or metal strapping.

Perforated strapping should not be used unless there is no other alternative.

The reason the tubs must be installed is because the inspector needs to be sure you are using the proper tub/shower anti scald valves.

Some inspectors require a pressure test on all water lines that will be buried in a wall or ceiling. 80-100 psi

Your pvc will need to be capped and filled with either water(filled through the vent stack) or air(5 psi with low pressure gauge. Trust me water is much easier to find a leak if you have one, but air is safer if testing above a finished area of the existing house.

Don't forget nailing plates to protect the piping anyplace a screw could hit it.

These are the basics. The rest is determined on how you piped your system.
 
 

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