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Is it load bearing? Engineered truss (adding to the MANY others)

Is it load bearing? Engineered truss (adding to the MANY others)


  #1  
Old 08-29-14, 07:42 PM
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Is it load bearing? Engineered truss (adding to the MANY others)

Hello all -
Thank you in advance for taking the time to listen and reply!

I've taken the first step to inspect a first floor common wall between a living rm and family by removing the drywall (photos attached). The house is a an engineered truss 19" high and 24" on center spanning 26' (roof is truss too). Underneath the wall, inside the basement truss has two 2x6's nailed inside of it (~12' apart), along the length of the house. These 2x6's run about 58" parallel on each side with the wall to be removed (photo attached but not referenced in the drawing). The wall in question is 17' long and we'll (hopefully) be removing an 8" section to put doors on.

Upon pulling the drywall I noticed the top plate is doubled up 2x4 which I wasn't expecting. Underneath the wall is a basement with no wall underneath - the full 26' span is unsupported for 15' from the outside wall to where the previous owners framed out an office in the basement. (See not to scale MS Paint drawing). Above the wall is a common wall between two bedrooms.

My original thought, pre-cutting was that this was non-bearing because of the truss construction. I'd make the opening, shore up some king and jack studs with sandwiched 2x8 (or 2x10) LVL and patch it back up. The double top plate has thrown me though and brought me here. I love this forum.

Please let me know if you need any other photos or descriptions.

Thank you again and have a blessed Labor Day!

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  #2  
Old 08-29-14, 07:51 PM
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Additionally - there's a same model house across the street (for sale) that doesn't have ANY wall where our wall is, except a possible hidden beam. It's just one great room.

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Old 08-29-14, 08:12 PM
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Its unclear where that wall is in relation to the 2nd photo.

At any rate, if you planned on installing a header anyway it sounds as if you were assuming its load bearing in the first place. And if so, why is there any question as to how to proceed? If you are worried something will collapse when you remove those studs, it won't.
 
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Old 08-30-14, 05:29 AM
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I think you are correct that the wall is probably not load bearing. It may have been built with a double top plate just because that is how the framers knew to build a wall with no concern for load or non-load bearing. To be safe go up in the attic above and see if there is anything special going on in that area.
 
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Old 08-30-14, 06:26 AM
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A double top plate is also easier to drywall. Trying to hit 7/8" at the top when installing drywall on the walls is kind of tough and doesn't give you much meat for the screws to hold onto.
 
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Old 08-30-14, 07:36 AM
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Thank you all.
XSleeper - That photo was to show the basement trusses and the 2x6 running perpendicular to them. I've ammended the drawing below to show where they run (in blue) and where the photo was taken (purple star). There's no special framing or anything under the wall at all. I've attached a panorama photo taken directly underneath the wall of the 2x6s (yellow arrows) where the coax goes up (red arrow)- that can be referenced to the first photo. As to why I'm asking... ask twice, cut once. I wanted to be sure the load (if there is) distributed 8' out would be ok on those basement trusses.
Pilot Dane - Just to be clear, the attic is not above it, there's another floor. I'll take a look up there anyway but I don't recall anything special.
Tolyn - That 's a really interesting point. Still, I'd rather be safe and ask.

Thank you all for the quick replies. I look forward to and will appreciate any additional color.

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Old 08-30-14, 03:11 PM
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The 2x6's are there for lateral bracing, and they have to be there per the truss mfg on those vertical struts. I'm almost positive the wall is not required as a load bearing wall, but since it is there, it does double the load those trusses can handle by halving their span. However we can't tell if the first floor ceiling joists break on a wall above this... which is what would create a point load on the first floor... or ??? I wouldn't change anything about your current plan, putting the header in is a good plan.
 
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Old 08-31-14, 05:58 AM
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Thanks you XSleeper! My suspicions exactly.
 
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Old 09-12-14, 10:01 AM
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Hello all -
I wanted to come back and say thank you for your help. Most of these threads end without seeing the finished result or a peep from the OP so I wanted to share my success.

The header is in! 2 - 1.75 x 9.5 LVL boards sistered together with screws and adhesive, sitting on 2x4 jack studs attached to a king stud (I think my terminology is correct).

Everything went well. After my last 2x4 stud was cut flush from the top and bottom plate I noticed it didn't have any resistance and breathed a bit of relief. (I built a temporary false wall 3' off just in case).

Being in the basement I hear a little more creak from the subfloor above but I'm not sure if it's just me being paranoid. Please don't hesitate to correct me if something is wrong! Thanks again.

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  #10  
Old 09-12-14, 10:12 AM
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XSleeper said, "we can't tell if the first floor ceiling joists break on a wall above this... which is what would create a point load on the first floor".

I'm not sure what "break" you're referring to except maybe the overlap I see where the joists are spans of 2x10/12 and overlap in the middle of house over a load bearing wall. For this house there are open trusses between the first and second floor and they are 18 or 19" on center.
 
 

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