Answers to Basement Questions #2
Q. I live in Boston and have a finished basement with a title floor. When the temperature outside is around 85 degrees and up, my basement's floor and cold water pipe get so wet like a shower, but just some areas and not the whole basement. The basement has four windows but I can only open two. Does it get too humid down there? What should I do to get rid of the water?
A. It sounds like you have condensation. When the warm, humid air comes into the basement through the open windows, it will condense on the colder surfaces. To eliminate the water and condensation, you have a few choices.
1. Warming the surfaces (impractical and very costly), which is not a good choice, and the air will still be humid.
2. Eliminate the warm humid air. This requires closing the windows so the dehumidifier can do its job. Running a dehumidifier with the windows open is not an option. You can air out the basement when it gets much colder and the air is much less humid and doesn't carry as much water.
Q. My house is a block and stucco rancher with a full, walkout basement. The door is a standard exterior one, maybe 32 inches wide. I want to remove it and widen the opening to install a sliding glass door or maybe French doors. I plan (unless otherwise advised) to use one of those metal lintel bar things, but I'm puzzled about just how to put it in place. Is it necessary to somehow support the wall before widening the opening? If so, how? I thought of maybe using my circular saw with a masonry blade to remove the mortar between the courses of block where the bar would go, inserting it, then cutting the opening wider. Would that work, or is it just crazy?
A. The first issue is to determine if the existing floor joists are running over this wall or running with it. Second is the width of the patio door you wish to install. Third is the total height of the basement walls. Fourth - and you won't want to hear this - get the Building Permit.
It is important to know these things first before proceeding with the project. If you are not feeling comfortable about doing this, hire it out. If you undertake this project and have the tools to cut the block, here's a hint: A circular saw is not the way to go. Rent a good masonry saw to do the job.
Steel Lintels are used since we are talking concrete block. Depending on the overall span, the proper size will be needed. The overall opening should be made to accommodate a wood treated buck (frame). Then it will be an issue of patching the concrete and other finish details. In essence, this is not really a DIY project unless someone really knows what he or she is doing.
Q. Is it harmful to a foundation to plant flowers near it if the flowers need a lot of water?
A. This depends on:
1. If the basement exterior walls have not been waterproofed.
2. If you currently have any issues with water infiltration into the basement.
3. If you don't have gutters on your home.
4. If the current grade is sloped away from the foundation.
5. If you have a sump pump that is ejecting water well away from the home.
Normally, this is not a problem. Flowers don't take that much water to cause any concerns with your foundation.
Q. I have a dirt basement in my new house. While the basement is wet, most of it comes from the dirt when it rains; the "finished" side of the basement is clean. We are planning to put down concrete, but I don't know what prep to do, and about how much it will cost. Does anyone have any suggestions, as well as maybe a guess as to the cost if we just paid a concrete company to come in and do it?
A. It would be best to fill with gravel, which promotes drainage, and then cover with plastic vapor barrier. It would be best to install rebar. It will take 5-6 yards of concrete.
Q. Heavy rain in fall and winter causes water to enter my basement through the oil burner chimney base. The oil burner is vented via a stainless steel liner in the two-story exterior brick chimney. The poured concrete base is 20" by 20", and rises 3' above ground. If my spring landscaping, drainage, and gutter corrections still don't stop the water getting in, would drilling a two-inch hole in concrete base to vent the water back out be acceptable structurally?
A. Unless you intend to pump water through the two-inch hole, I doubt it will matter much for allowing water to evaporate from the ground. Its movement through the earth to a drier location will probably prevail. I would pursue your first thought and concentrate on keeping the water out in the first place. That will be more effective.
A. It sounds like you have condensation. When the warm, humid air comes into the basement through the open windows, it will condense on the colder surfaces. To eliminate the water and condensation, you have a few choices.
1. Warming the surfaces (impractical and very costly), which is not a good choice, and the air will still be humid.
2. Eliminate the warm humid air. This requires closing the windows so the dehumidifier can do its job. Running a dehumidifier with the windows open is not an option. You can air out the basement when it gets much colder and the air is much less humid and doesn't carry as much water.
Q. My house is a block and stucco rancher with a full, walkout basement. The door is a standard exterior one, maybe 32 inches wide. I want to remove it and widen the opening to install a sliding glass door or maybe French doors. I plan (unless otherwise advised) to use one of those metal lintel bar things, but I'm puzzled about just how to put it in place. Is it necessary to somehow support the wall before widening the opening? If so, how? I thought of maybe using my circular saw with a masonry blade to remove the mortar between the courses of block where the bar would go, inserting it, then cutting the opening wider. Would that work, or is it just crazy?
A. The first issue is to determine if the existing floor joists are running over this wall or running with it. Second is the width of the patio door you wish to install. Third is the total height of the basement walls. Fourth - and you won't want to hear this - get the Building Permit.
It is important to know these things first before proceeding with the project. If you are not feeling comfortable about doing this, hire it out. If you undertake this project and have the tools to cut the block, here's a hint: A circular saw is not the way to go. Rent a good masonry saw to do the job.
Steel Lintels are used since we are talking concrete block. Depending on the overall span, the proper size will be needed. The overall opening should be made to accommodate a wood treated buck (frame). Then it will be an issue of patching the concrete and other finish details. In essence, this is not really a DIY project unless someone really knows what he or she is doing.
Q. Is it harmful to a foundation to plant flowers near it if the flowers need a lot of water?
A. This depends on:
1. If the basement exterior walls have not been waterproofed.
2. If you currently have any issues with water infiltration into the basement.
3. If you don't have gutters on your home.
4. If the current grade is sloped away from the foundation.
5. If you have a sump pump that is ejecting water well away from the home.
Normally, this is not a problem. Flowers don't take that much water to cause any concerns with your foundation.
Q. I have a dirt basement in my new house. While the basement is wet, most of it comes from the dirt when it rains; the "finished" side of the basement is clean. We are planning to put down concrete, but I don't know what prep to do, and about how much it will cost. Does anyone have any suggestions, as well as maybe a guess as to the cost if we just paid a concrete company to come in and do it?
A. It would be best to fill with gravel, which promotes drainage, and then cover with plastic vapor barrier. It would be best to install rebar. It will take 5-6 yards of concrete.
Q. Heavy rain in fall and winter causes water to enter my basement through the oil burner chimney base. The oil burner is vented via a stainless steel liner in the two-story exterior brick chimney. The poured concrete base is 20" by 20", and rises 3' above ground. If my spring landscaping, drainage, and gutter corrections still don't stop the water getting in, would drilling a two-inch hole in concrete base to vent the water back out be acceptable structurally?
A. Unless you intend to pump water through the two-inch hole, I doubt it will matter much for allowing water to evaporate from the ground. Its movement through the earth to a drier location will probably prevail. I would pursue your first thought and concentrate on keeping the water out in the first place. That will be more effective.
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