Finishing a Basement 2 - Moisture Proofing

Intro - Moisture Proofing - Subfloor - Lay Out Walls - Frame Walls - Corners, Doors & Ceilings - Electrical - Heating and Plumbing - Insulation - Finishing Walls & Ceilings

By Murray Anderson

No one wants to spend time in a damp cool basement. If your basement has water problems or even if it is just a little damp and moist, you'll need to deal with the moisture before doing anything else. Even if you think your basement is dry, test it to be sure.

To test your basement for moisture, tape a piece of plastic or tin foil onto the basement floor (seal all around all the edges) and leave it for a couple of days. If you get moisture on the exposed surface that is merely condensation, you don't need to worry about it since insulation and ventilation in your finished basement will deal with it. However, if you have moisture under the plastic, you have some moisture infiltration through the cement.

Often moisture in a basement is simply a matter of poor drainage outside the house. This could be caused by any combination of lack of gutters (allowing rainwater to run directly off the roof), bad grading (the soil around the house should slope away from the foundation), or an incorrectly placed drainpipe (that leaves water near the foundation). Water should be directed at least 5 feet away from the foundation walls. Fixing these areas will help keep dampness out of your basement.

Concrete waterproof sealer can also be applied directly to the walls and floors. There are a number of different brands available at your home store, but most come as a powder that's mixed with water and then applied with a long bristle brush. Keeping the sealer moist so it dries over a period of days allows it to actually get into the concrete pores and form a waterproof crystalline structure that blocks moisture.

Obviously any cracks in either poured walls or concrete block walls will need to be repaired as well. Hairline cracks should be chiseled out 3/4" deep and wide and filled with a concrete patching material. Any cracks in the floor should also be chiseled out and repaired with standard concrete and a bonding agent.

Intro - Moisture Proofing - Subfloor - Lay Out Walls - Frame Walls - Corners, Doors & Ceilings - Electrical - Heating and Plumbing - Insulation - Finishing Walls & Ceilings

Murray Anderson is an experienced freelance writer with articles published in both the United States and Canada. He has written on a wide range of topics, but specializes in home maintenance and how to's.

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