Finishing a Basement 5 - Framing the Walls

Intro - Moisture Proofing - Subfloor - Lay Out Walls - Frame Walls - Corners, Doors & Ceilings - Electrical - Heating and Plumbing - Insulation - Finishing Walls & Ceilings

By Murray Anderson

Frame your walls with construction grade lumber placed 16" on center. Using 2x4's will provide good substantial walls as well as provide lots of room for insulation and running wires. Use pressure treated wood for the bottom plate (it will actually rest on the concrete floor), as it will resist moisture better than white wood.

The easiest way to frame walls is to build the section on the floor and then raise each wall section up into place. To determine the height of the framed walls, measure from the floor to the bottom of the floor joists in a number of places. The shortest number is what you will build to. Don't forget the top and bottom plates are 1 1/2" thick, so you need to deduct that from the length of your studs. It's also a good idea to build your walls at a height that will "float" - that is, leave some space between the top of the framed wall and the bottom of the floor joist/ceiling - so leave an extra 3/4". This extra space will allow the wall to actually "float" up or down if the basement floor moves up or down - not an unusual occurrence even in older homes.

Here's an example of how to calculate your stud lengths. Floor to ceiling height is 93". Top and bottom plates are 1 1/2" each or 3" in total, plus 3/4" for the floating wall, so you want your individual studs to be 89 1/4" (93" minus the 3" and the 3/4").

Lay your top and bottom plates side by side on the floor and mark them at the same time. When laying out your studs on 16" centers, the first and second stud aren't 16" on center. Rather, the distance from the end of the plate to the center of the second stud is 16", and each subsequent stud is 16" on center. At the opposite end of the wall it is 16" from that corner to the center of the second stud from the end.

Nail the studs in place using 3 1/2" coated nails, and raise the wall section up into its position with the back of the bottom plate lined up on the chalk line. Hold the wall section temporarily in place by driving a nail into the bottom of a floor joist. Make sure the bottom plate is properly positioned, then use a power nailer to fasten the bottom plate to the concrete floor. Use a level to ensure the framed wall is plumb and fasten it permanently to the floor joists. Special L shaped framing clips are available that will attach the walls to the floor joists and still allow them to float, or you can drill a hole through the top plate and put a spike through the hole into the joist - just don't drive the spike all the way through.

Intro - Moisture Proofing - Subfloor - Lay Out Walls - Frame Walls - Corners, Doors & Ceilings - Electrical - Heating and Plumbing - Insulation - Finishing Walls & Ceilings

Murray Anderson is an experienced freelance writer with articles published in both the United States and Canada. He has written on a wide range of topics, but specializes in home maintenance and how to's.

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