Finishing a Basement 6 - Framing Corners, Doors and Ceilings

Intro - Moisture Proofing - Subfloor - Lay Out Walls - Frame Walls - Corners, Doors & Ceilings - Electrical - Heating and Plumbing - Insulation - Finishing Walls & Ceilings

By Murray Anderson

Framing Corners

Where the framing meets at the corners, you'll want to build what is called a three-stud corner. When you start framing your walls, nail three studs together and place them at the end of the plates, then install your other studs on their 16" centers (this is why you measure 16" to the second stud).

Fasten the first wall section in place and then build your second wall section. With the second section, install a single stud right at the end of the plates, where it will butt against the three studs on the other wall section. Fasten the corners together by nailing through the single stud into the three studs.

If you need to run any wires or cables through your corners, you can alter the design slightly by using 2x4 pieces sandwiched between the two studs (rather than a full stud). Using pieces will give you an opening that you can run cable through.

Framing Doors

Your framed walls are likely going to need to accommodate doors. You'll want to make sure your finished door openings will be large enough to easily move furniture in and out of the room, so you should install at least a 32-inch wide door. To allow for installation of the door as well as the casing, plus have room for shimming the door, you should frame the opening 2" wider than the door itself. (For a 32" wide door, frame the opening at 34".)

Also, frame in extra space at the top of the door (about 1 1/2" more than the height of the door). Since standard doors are 6' 9" tall, your framed height should be 6' 10 1/2" from where your finished floor will be. Use the straightest studs you've got for framing your doors. Adding some extra side bracing will help stabilize the door.

Framing Ceilings

If you are planning on installing a drywall ceiling, you will need to provide structure to attach the drywall. The easiest way to do this is to run 2x4's perpendicular to the floor joists on 16" centers. This will provide a solid foundation to hold the drywall as well as lots of room for running wires or plumbing pipes above the ceiling. The obvious downside is that you will be losing 2" of ceiling. If you are going to be using a suspended ceiling, you don't need to worry about framing the ceiling.

Intro - Moisture Proofing - Subfloor - Lay Out Walls - Frame Walls - Corners, Doors & Ceilings - Electrical - Heating and Plumbing - Insulation - Finishing Walls & Ceilings

Murray Anderson is an experienced freelance writer with articles published in both the United States and Canada. He has written on a wide range of topics, but specializes in home maintenance and how to's.

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