Intro - Overview - Layout - Daddo and Rabbet Cuts - Back Assembly - Face Frame - Molding/Doors - Finishing - Checklist
Making and Attaching the Molding and Shelves
The molding customizes your bookcase and puts your personal stamp on it. The crown molding looks complex, but is really one piece of wood cut into two pieces. Take your time and make accurate cuts.
1. Use the shaper accessory of the tablesaw. Design the style of molding you would like. Experiment on scrap wood for practice.
2. This crown molding for the top of the bookcase was created by shaping one or both edges of a wide piece of the stock with a bead and cove cutter on your shaper.
Rip the pieces on your table saw to the widths required. Ripping is done after shaping because it is safer to shape with wide pieces.
Cut 45 degree bevels on the front corners of the molding, measuring carefully. For every miter cut, add the width of the stock to the length for a perfect fit. (EXAMPLE: A 44" wide bookcase with two miter cuts on 3/4" stock requires that 3/4" + 3/4" (1 1/2") be added to the length for a total length of 45 1/2" (44 + 1 1/2"). It is a good idea to clamp each 3" piece in place at the top of the bookcase and check the bevel cuts. Once you are sure the cuts are accurate, drill pilot holes and nail with finishing nails.
5. Lay the 1" pieces on top of the 3" strips to mark them so they will continue the 45 degree angle. Allow for extra length on the ends of boards with no miter cuts; these boards can be cut for a better fit after the boards with mitered ends are cut to fit and joined.
6. For the molding on the edge of the shelves, measure the shelf lengths and cut the molding to fit. Chamfer the edges where the edges meet other rounded edges.
7. Drill pilot holes then nail your finished molding on the front of the shelves. Inset all your finishing nails with a punch, then cover the holes with wood patch that has been mixed with stain, after you have stained the unit.
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Questions of a Do It Yourself nature should be submitted to our
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