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Cutting Block Cleaning Care and Repair

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Cutting Block Cleaning Care and Repair

Wood butcher block can take much hard wear and tear, be resurfaced or repaired, and continue looking good for many years.
Before using a new butcher block, season it to prevent staining and absorption of food odors and bacteria.

A mineral oil finish is preferable to polyurethane or varnish because the oil finish is easy to maintain and to repair if the wood surface is damaged. An oil finish helps to prevent the wood from cracking or pulling apart at the seams. Although boiled linseed oil will work, mineral oil is preferred because it will not turn rancid.

Before applying oil to butcher block, warm the oil slightly. Apply oil with a soft cloth, in the direction of the grain, allowing the oil to soak in between each of the four or five coats required for the initial seasoning. After each treatment, wait about four to six hours and wipe off oil that did not soak into the wood. Re-oil the butcher block monthly or as often as needed.

Wood butcher block counters have all the characteristics of solid wood. They will shrink or expand as the moisture content of the wood changes. Extreme dryness may cause cracks. Any cracks that appear should be filled with wood filler, sanded smooth, and the entire block given a good coat of oil.

Oil finished butcher block tops may be cleaned as any other table top. A damp cloth with a detergent may be used; followed by a damp cloth to remove the detergent. Excessive water should be avoided. All water should be wiped up immediately. Cut raw meat and poultry on a smooth-surfaced plastic cutting board which can be scrubbed thoroughly with hot suds afterward.

Repeated use and cleaning will remove the oil finish. Periodically, warm mineral oil should be applied with an absorbent cloth or very fine steel wool to the surface and edges. Allow oil to soak in a few minutes, then remove all surface oil with a dry, clean cloth. Oxidation or hardening of the oil will take approximately 6 hours.

This article has been contributed in part by Michigan State University Extension

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