Q. I have a whirlpool gas dryer that is having some problems. About two months ago the dryer had no heat. I replaced the thermal fuse and viola - problem solved. It worked great for a couple of months, and now when we put a load in, it heats up for about five minutes and shuts off. It will then continue to run and fifteen minutes later, fire back up, heat for three minutes or so, and turn off. Is this a thermostat problem or a solenoid problem?
A. A restricted exhaust vent may be the problem. To verify if this is or is not the problem, remove the entire existing vent from the dryer. The end result will be the dryer is not connected to the venting system. Once you have done this, dry a load of clothing and note the findings. If the dryer operates correctly and the current problem appears to be resolved, the venting system is restricted and or clogged.
Clearing it by any means necessary will resolve the problem. Check the entire system. This also includes the exhaust vent hood outside. It has a flapper that may not be opening fully or not at all. Locate any restriction within the entire exhaust system and clean out all lint. Replace exhaust vent tubing as needed.
You're making some progress here. The next possible items are the two solenoids on top of the gas valve. There are two; both are on top of the gas valve. Solenoids also supply voltage to the glow coil and are part of the electrical loop. You will need to remove them from the top of the gas valve by removing the entire gas valve assembly first. Take them off the gas valve body by removing the hold down cover plate or take the entire gas valve unit to your local appliance parts store and have the entire assembly and parts tested.
Defective Gas Valve: Remove entire unit as an assembly. Take the entire assembly to your local appliance parts store for testing. Gas valves are not repairable. Replacement is the only option if defective.
CAUTION: Do not attempt to repair the gas valve. This is a non-repairable item.
Dryers with touch pad controls use electronic computerized circuit boards. The entire circuit board could be removed and taken to the local appliance parts dealer for testing and or replacement.
Flame Sensor: This part is located on the burner housing. If it is defective, it will cause the glow coil to not function or cause the problem you're describing. You can test this part with a continuity tester or an ohmmeter.
Do not solely rely on this test to prove the part is functioning correctly. The only proof positive method to be sure the part is functioning correctly, is to carefully remove the part and have the local appliance parts store person do the testing.
It is possible there is another defective part or switch that is in line electrically between the timer and the glow coil that is defective, incorrectly set, and not allowing current to flow through the entire circuit. You may also need to verify if there is electrical continuity through the entire wiring system. Be sure to unplug the power first. Each wire should be checked through its entire length. Check each electrical connection, terminal and junction connection. Also check for loose wires between the glow coil, gas valve and every switch.
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