Intro - Checklist - Prep - Rough In & Box Placement - Stud Preparation - Wire Installation - Terminal Placement - Wire Connection I - Wire Connection II - Fixtures & Outside Wiring - Track Lighting - Wiring Extensions - Breaker Box
What You Will Be Doing
This primer will help you discover how easy it is for you as a do-it-yourselfer to work with the 110/120 volt electrical system found in your own home. 110/120 volt is relatively simple to wire and connect and does not require a lot of special equipment or handling.
Electricity can be an intimidating concept for many because of the potential danger. You can virtually eliminate that danger with a little knowledge and proper safety practices. However, regardless of how much knowledge you have, never become lax in dealing with an electrical system, or it can be deadly.
The information in this section is meant to give you an understanding of several common electrical situations that you might encounter. Because of the many options and variations in this area, it is not intended to be a complete guide to electrical work. Never take chances with electrical work. If you feel you need more information, consult an electrician or a more detailed reference book. If you plan any extensive electrical work, or to evaluate the condition of an older electrical system, I recommend you seek a professional.
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Safety
Safety is of utmost importance when working with electricity. Develop safe work habits and stick to them. Be very careful with electricity. It may be invisible, but it can be dangerous if not understood and respected.
- Safety glasses or goggles should be worn whenever power tools are used, especially if you wear contact lenses.
- Make sure the power is off at the breaker box before doing any electrical work
- Always work in a dean, dry area free from anything wet.
- Wires should only be connected at accessible junction boxes. Never splice wires together and conceal them within a wall without a junction box.
- Never attempt to strip wires with a knife. Aside from endangering your fingers, you will nick the wire metal, which will create an electrical hazard.
- Ground fault circuit interrupter outlets should be used under damp conditions (basements, bathrooms, outdoors, etc.), as required by the National Electric Code.
- Don't create fire hazards by overloading an outlet or an extension cord.
- Avoid electrical shock by mapping and marking your switch and outlet boxes. Put the map on the door of the main power service panel.
- Leave a warning message that you are working on the circuit at the service panel, and tape the circuit breaker in the off position. With a fuse box, take the fuse out
- Never change the size of a fuse or breaker in a circuit.
- Be certain your connector is CO/ALR rated when you splice aluminum wire. If it is marked CU/ALR, use only copper wire. Do not use aluminum wire with push terminals; use only copper or copper-dad aluminum wire.
- Always correct the problem that caused a fuse or circuit breaker to blow before replacing the fuse or circuit breaker.
- Replace wiring that shows signs of fraying or deterioration.
- Avoid breaking your knuckles by bracing the powerful right-angle drill so that it cannot spin around if it gets stuck while drilling.
- Before working with wires or electrical connections, check them with a voltage tester to be sure they are dead.
- Plumbing and gas pipes are often used to ground electrical systems. Never touch them while working with electricity.
- Don't use metal ladders with overhead electricity.
- Use the proper protection, take precautions, and plan ahead. Never by-pass safety to save money or to rush a project
Useful Terms
- Ampere. Measures the number of electrically charged particles that flow past a given point on a circuit (per second).
- Breaker box (breaker panel). Houses the circuit breakers or fuses, distributes power to various parts of your house.
- Circuit. All wiring controlled by one fuse or circuit breaker.
- Circuit breaker. Protective device for each circuit, which automatically cuts off power from the main breaker in the event of an overload or short. Only a regulated amount of current can pass through the breaker before it will "trip."
- Fish tape. A long, flexible metal strip with a formed hook (to which you fasten the cable) or wires pulls through walls, raceway, or conduit.
- Main breaker. Turns the power entering your home through the breaker box on or off. This is sometimes found in the breaker box, or it may be in a separate box and at another location.
- Neutral bus bar. The bar to which the neutral wire is connected in the breaker box.
- Roughing-in. Placement of outlets, switches and lights prior to actual electrical hook-up.
- Volt. Measures the current pressure at receptacles and lights. Average household voltage is 120.
- Watt. The rate at which an electrical device (light bulb, appliance, etc.) consumes energy. Watts=volts x amps.
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