wasps and bees continual infestation.
#1
wasps and bees continual infestation.
Maybe PABugman might be able to give me an answer.
My cabin has a major bee infestation. The previous owner had a pro come out and do his thing, but they came back. Since the job was guaranteed, the previous owner had the pro come out again this spring and apply more "poison". And again they came back big time. Last week he did another application and supposedly this did it. I'm told the larva need to be killed.
The problem is that the bee infestation is in (under) the roof. I vacuumed about a thousand dead bees from the floor last time I was out there. I don't want to block the hole that they come in on the inside until I'm sure they are dead or gone. Unless the roofing is removed and the queen and comb is removed I don't think any more applications are going to help. However, since I can't expect the pro to do any more (it's not my dime), and I'm not ready this year to replace the roofing, I was wondering what effect putting in one of those insect bombs for the winter. I can insert it into the roof from both the outside and inside.
Any thoughts?
On a wasp problem . On the opposite side of the cabin a wasp nest was built that is about the size of a basket ball. These are just on the outside under the peak eave. I sprayed the nest and almost all died immediately and the nest was almost bare. Ran out of spray and could not fully spray complete nest.
My question. If I completely spray and kill off all the wasps, should I leave the bare nest in place as a deterrent, or should I remove it? Does it make a difference? Will leaving the old nest do any harm to building? Early in the spring I did remove an old nest. Then it looked like they decided it was OK to rebuild.
My cabin has a major bee infestation. The previous owner had a pro come out and do his thing, but they came back. Since the job was guaranteed, the previous owner had the pro come out again this spring and apply more "poison". And again they came back big time. Last week he did another application and supposedly this did it. I'm told the larva need to be killed.
The problem is that the bee infestation is in (under) the roof. I vacuumed about a thousand dead bees from the floor last time I was out there. I don't want to block the hole that they come in on the inside until I'm sure they are dead or gone. Unless the roofing is removed and the queen and comb is removed I don't think any more applications are going to help. However, since I can't expect the pro to do any more (it's not my dime), and I'm not ready this year to replace the roofing, I was wondering what effect putting in one of those insect bombs for the winter. I can insert it into the roof from both the outside and inside.
Any thoughts?
On a wasp problem . On the opposite side of the cabin a wasp nest was built that is about the size of a basket ball. These are just on the outside under the peak eave. I sprayed the nest and almost all died immediately and the nest was almost bare. Ran out of spray and could not fully spray complete nest.
My question. If I completely spray and kill off all the wasps, should I leave the bare nest in place as a deterrent, or should I remove it? Does it make a difference? Will leaving the old nest do any harm to building? Early in the spring I did remove an old nest. Then it looked like they decided it was OK to rebuild.
#2
Forum Topic Moderator
I generally remove the nests on the house but leave the ones on the barn, I don't think it has any effect on whether or not they return. Do you have attic access? IMO it's best to stock up on that 20' bee spray!
#4
Forum Topic Moderator
I think the biggest issue is not living in it full time. I bought my place in February but didn't move in until December. I think we all got stung in January. I had eradicated all the bees/wasps by summer.
#5
Member
Unfortunately you are only seeing a few wasps and bees of what actually live in your area. Even if you killed all of the ones living in/on your cabin there are thousands remaining in the surrounding area and comes spring they will return.
In addition to taking out the immediate risk you need to make your cabin less (zero) attractive and poisons I don't think will do that. The under the eave nests can easily be removed each year, it is the hidden ones that need to have their hiding places eliminated. Lets see what PA can suggest.
Bud
In addition to taking out the immediate risk you need to make your cabin less (zero) attractive and poisons I don't think will do that. The under the eave nests can easily be removed each year, it is the hidden ones that need to have their hiding places eliminated. Lets see what PA can suggest.
Bud
#6
Marksr, you're right about that. This is only a cabin with no power. Only used on weekends and good weather. The previous owner (and builder) did in fact live in it all year round and was able to maintain it. But during the last 10 years it's been abandoned. Needs a some cosmetic work but other wise it's in sound shape. The only real issue is the roof. I plane on putting a metal roof on next year. The out side decks are rotting and will need to be replaced or removed but all in all it's in usable shape. As soon as my son recovers to a point that he can mange the place, he will take over.
#7
Bud, I was responding to Marksr's post as you were posting. I don't think any "hidden" nest are in the cabin. How does one make a structure zero attractive? Even our regular living areas are always being "nested" by wasps and bees. I think I'll need to do a regular schedule of spraying (weekly or whenever I'm there) to deter nest building.
#8
Forum Topic Moderator
The bees that continue to be a problem sound like honeybees. Even if the present colony is dead there will continue to be problems due to the honey and the combs as it will be attractive to other honeybee colonies in the future. This may be what is happening now. Removal and thorough cleaning and thorough sealing will be necessary. Even with a good cleaning the pheromones and scents will still be present to some degree unless all surrounding building material is removed. A thorough sealing my help prevent re-infestation though.
I’m not crazy about the aerosol bomb idea. Consider using “no pest strips” such as the ones that I will link to if you can get them into the area where the bees are. Don’t have to be right in the heart of it all, but close.
As to the wasps/hornets you can remove it or not. Winter alone would solve the problem. A queen will overwinter but they always leave in the spring and none ever move back in. Leaving it or removing it has no deterrent effect. Sometimes birds will tear them up for nesting material.
I’m not crazy about the aerosol bomb idea. Consider using “no pest strips” such as the ones that I will link to if you can get them into the area where the bees are. Don’t have to be right in the heart of it all, but close.
As to the wasps/hornets you can remove it or not. Winter alone would solve the problem. A queen will overwinter but they always leave in the spring and none ever move back in. Leaving it or removing it has no deterrent effect. Sometimes birds will tear them up for nesting material.
#9
Forum Topic Moderator
Nuvan ProStrips, Nuvan Strips - Free Shipping
Strips with the same active ingredient bur different brand name can be bought in the big box stores, feed mills, hardware stores, etc depending on what state you live in. These are good in void spaces. If the air exchanges too much then they aren’t nearly as effective.
Strips with the same active ingredient bur different brand name can be bought in the big box stores, feed mills, hardware stores, etc depending on what state you live in. These are good in void spaces. If the air exchanges too much then they aren’t nearly as effective.
#10
Thanks for the info Bugman.
Appreciate your input.
Yes, I believe they are honey bees. Too bad I have to kill them. But the process was already being done when I took possession of the property.
The"Pro" (whom I have not met) is still going to apply another treatment. Today I was there and I saw no bees. No dead ones in the cabin and no swarming on the outside. About ten days ago I vacuumed about a thousand dead bees off the floor inside.
No sale of the Nuvan pest strips to NY. So what is my alternative?
Hmmm...not for sale in New York, but does that mean if I get it would it be illegal to use it?
Appreciate your input.
Yes, I believe they are honey bees. Too bad I have to kill them. But the process was already being done when I took possession of the property.
The"Pro" (whom I have not met) is still going to apply another treatment. Today I was there and I saw no bees. No dead ones in the cabin and no swarming on the outside. About ten days ago I vacuumed about a thousand dead bees off the floor inside.
No sale of the Nuvan pest strips to NY. So what is my alternative?
Hmmm...not for sale in New York, but does that mean if I get it would it be illegal to use it?
#11
Forum Topic Moderator
#12
Forum Topic Moderator
New york and NJ do make pest control more difficult for homeowners. Probably wouldn’t be legal to use either but I’m not telling. Do you have friends in PA?
My second choice is also on the “bad” list for NY. Drione is excellent for bees but very, very lightweight and difficult to control. Can you get Sevin powder? Check agricultural supply places. If so, that is an excellent choice for bees. Use it alone in the bellow duster or mix it with drione.
Use the bellow duster with the spout on top for lighter applications; use it with spout on the bottom for heavy treatments. I sometimes use them sideways as well. You’ll get the feel soon enough. Where you are using it you can treat heavily. Ask the pro what kind of dust he likes in these situations.
My second choice is also on the “bad” list for NY. Drione is excellent for bees but very, very lightweight and difficult to control. Can you get Sevin powder? Check agricultural supply places. If so, that is an excellent choice for bees. Use it alone in the bellow duster or mix it with drione.
Use the bellow duster with the spout on top for lighter applications; use it with spout on the bottom for heavy treatments. I sometimes use them sideways as well. You’ll get the feel soon enough. Where you are using it you can treat heavily. Ask the pro what kind of dust he likes in these situations.
#13
Forum Topic Moderator
While I've never used them on honey bees Sevin dust is very effective on carpenter bees. I use a duster to apply it to their holes. I've bought it at a both feed and big box stores. I purchased the duster online.
#14
Yes, I do have a source to buy the chemical in PA.
Sevin dust is readily available also.
Guy's thank you both the insight and names of chemicals I can use.
One more item. You say use dusters. I'm not familiar with them. Can you direct me to a source and what they look like?
Thanks again.
I'm not sure how the arrangement is set up with the exterminator and the previous owner. Don't know if the exterminator is aware that I'm a new owner or if he is just maintaining his guarantee even though the original owner is no longer involved with the property other than helping me out. I also don't want to interfere with any applications he is currently applying, and grateful that he and the previous owner are willing to continue to make the applications without further cost. But I can't expect any more after the snow falls. So I'm keeping your information in hand for when I need it.
Sevin dust is readily available also.
Guy's thank you both the insight and names of chemicals I can use.
One more item. You say use dusters. I'm not familiar with them. Can you direct me to a source and what they look like?
Thanks again.
I'm not sure how the arrangement is set up with the exterminator and the previous owner. Don't know if the exterminator is aware that I'm a new owner or if he is just maintaining his guarantee even though the original owner is no longer involved with the property other than helping me out. I also don't want to interfere with any applications he is currently applying, and grateful that he and the previous owner are willing to continue to make the applications without further cost. But I can't expect any more after the snow falls. So I'm keeping your information in hand for when I need it.
#15
Forum Topic Moderator
Here is an example - https://www.earthworkshealth.com/pro...SABEgIxEPD_BwE
I put 2-3 pieces of gravel in it so I can shake/mix it up every so often.
I put 2-3 pieces of gravel in it so I can shake/mix it up every so often.
#16
Forum Topic Moderator
Norm: look at my next to last post. There should be two links; one to a dust and one to a duster. I see it on my feed; if you don’t have it I’ll repost.