How to Drywall a Basement Ceiling

Hanging drywall on a basement ceiling is similar to any other room. What is different, at least with most basements, is that the ceiling height is considerably less than in upper floors. The most challenging part of this job, is supporting each sheet of drywall above your head, as you align it and set the screws. Consider renting a drywall jack, or enlist the help of a friend.

Step 1: Layout the Installation

Determine how much drywall is needed to cover the basement ceiling. Drywall is sold in 4x8-foot sheets, so measure each side of the room and calculate the area of the ceiling and the number of sheets to fill the space. If it helps, make a drawing of the ceiling's area, and note the measurements, to give yourself a visual guide. Indicate on the drawing where the full sheets will go, and where you'll have to make cuts.

Step 2: Mark Positions of Joists

You'll repeat this step for each full or cut sheet of drywall. On the wall, make a small mark in pencil where the ceiling joists cross over the wall. The marks should align with the center of the joists. These marks will guide you when setting the screws.

Step 3: Prepare First Sheet

Starting in a corner, prepare the first sheet for hanging. On the visible side of the drywall, measure and mark where any cuts must be made to accommodate a fixture, or where a sheet must be sized down to fit into a smaller space. If there are no cuts needed, hoist the sheet above your head, and position it flush against the walls. A helper is very handy for this.

Step 4: Secure Sheet

Using the power drill fitted with a drywall bit, set 3 or 4 drywall screws into the joists, with the wall marks as your guide. Once in place, the sheet is secured, so you can lower your arms. Follow this by setting screws into each joist, about every 16 inches apart. Repeat steps 3 and 4 for each sheet, whether full or re-sized, lining up edges flush with the wall and the adjacent sheet.

Step 5: Making Cuts

If you need to make a cut, first take all the necessary measurements and mark the line(s) on the drywall. Take the utility knife and cut through 1 layer of paper and the gypsum core, but don't cut through the drywall entirely. Once scored, fold the smaller section over, to break it away from the main piece. On the opposite side, run the utility knife over the seam in the paper, formed when you folded the drywall over. This method enables you to make the cut cleanly.

Step 6: Making Cuts for Fixtures

Another type of cut you may or may not have to make is within a sheet, for a fixture such as an outlet or light. Take the measurements for its position, and mark the full shape of the cut on the visible side of the drywall. A drywall saw is the best tool for this cut. Follow your lines, and once complete, pop out the section and hang the sheet.

Step 7: Finishing the Drywall

Finishing is the last stage of any drywall job. Prepare the all-purpose compound (mud) and fill the drywall pan. Start out using the 6-inch knife. Working 1 joint or seam at a time, fill it in with an even layer of mud. Cover the entire seam with a length of tape, and pass over it again, to set the tape in place and squeeze out excess mud. With the 8-inch knife, cover each taped seam with a layer of mud, smoothing and fanning it out as you do. Once dry, pass over each seam a second time with the 10-inch knife, covering an even wider swath. Finally, cover each screw head by smearing more mud than needed over the indentation, then scraping the excess away with the drywall knife, smoothing it at the same time.