How to Drywall When Floors/Ceilings Aren't Level

Knowing how to drywall is not such a difficult task however, knowing how to install drywall when you don’t have level ceilings or floors is no easy task. You may not know that your ceilings or floors are not level however, regardless of which is uneven you will want to keep any gaps at the base of the sheetrock. Read on to find out why and how to install your sheetrock despite this nuisance.

Step 1 – Are They Level?
You can determine whether the floor/ceilings are even by using a leveler. If you start with hanging the higher pieces on the wall first you can determine if it is crooked and prevent any gaps. These gaps may be caused by a sinking foundation or by studs and floors that aren’t perfectly square. It is better to have any and all gaps at the bottom because this way they can be covered up by some form of baseboard.

Step 2 – Mounting the Drywall
Given that drywall is often 8 feet tall, it is convenient given that many walls are 8’. However, some garages are taller than that so more drywall and cutting is necessary – but again – when drywalling start from the top. Some hang it so that it is 8’ across, others hang it so that the 8’ is vertical not horizontal.

Step 3 – Securing the Drywall
Once you have the sheet in place, you’re ready for the actual installation. Screw in the nails/screws about every 12” or so and do that through all the studs. You should leave ½” gap at the bottom to forgive bad cuts and uneven flooring.

Use a pry bar or a small piece of wood to hold up the bottom piece (if you choose to install the sheetrock horizontally) so that the pieces of drywall are flush with each other.

Step 4 – Install Corner Beads
After all the sheetrock is installed you will want to install a corner bead at the edges. This will form a strong, square outside corner that will protect the drywall. They come in 8 and 10 foot lengths so try to cover a corner with a single piece but if you do need more than one, butt them together and nail them together as close to the seam as possible. Secure the corner bead every 9” or so. When you’re completed, check with a 6” putty knife, you should have a shallow valley under the blade. The valley should continue the entire length as this is where the joint compound will need to go.