How to Hand Sew a Buttonhole

Most of today’s sewing machines have buttonhole attachments, but the attachments can be complicated and cumbersome to use, or they may take special instructions to learn how to use them. If you are in a hurry to complete a project, it may be easier to put buttonholes in by hand. Knowing how to sew a simple buttonhole stitch is the key to a quick and easy project.

Sewing New Buttonholes

Use chalk to mark where you want the buttonholes to go, and draw the length to fit the buttons you are using. If you have a pattern, use it to mark where the buttonholes should go by pinning it to your material and drawing the lines with a straight edge. Mark a perpendicular line on each end so that you know where the ends of the buttonholes are. At this point, each buttonhole should look like the letter I sideways. With a sharp craft razor blade or small pair of scissors, make a cut where each line is, taking care not to cut the ends.

Loop the thread through each end 6 or 8 times to reinforce the ends of the buttonhole. Sew a buttonhole stitch around where the cut is about 1/8 inch in from the cut, taking care not to pinch the material; pinching will make your buttonhole too big.

Different Kinds of Buttonhole Stitches

• Buttonhole Stitch - made by looping the thread before pushing the needle through the material, forming half knots at the top of each stitch.
• "Cross Your Hand” Stitch - similar to a zigzag stitch. It is a slip stitch in 2 different directions, overlapping in a V shape.
• Blanket Stitch - also used for buttonholes. It is similar to the buttonhole stitch but doesn’t have the half knot at the top.

All of these stitches are good for buttonholes, but keep in mind that the buttonhole stitch is the only one that is less likely to unravel when the thread breaks. All 3, however, are excellent for preventing fraying of the material. In order to prevent twisting while sewing, and to reinforce the strength of the thread, wax the thread before sewing any of these stitches.

Mending Buttonholes

Normal wear and tear can cause buttonhole threads to break and sometimes unravel, causing the material to fray. Use the buttonhole stitch to mend unraveled buttonholes the same way you stitch a new one.

On material that stretches, a buttonhole can sometimes stretch out of shape and become too big. Make the buttonhole smaller by looping a new end a short distance in from the old one. Slip stitch the open area between the old end and the new one closed. In most cases, the button will hide the slip-stitched area. If not, try using slightly larger buttons and take up less of the buttonhole.

Types of Material

Certain types of material are better than others for hand sewing buttonholes. For lighter materials, such as satin, make smaller stitches with a small, sharp needle to prevent pulling the material.