How to Sew an Invisible Zipper

An invisible zipper helps to add another enclosure to a garment without an obvious addition. When you learn to create an invisible zipper, you will hide a zipper, but add function to clothing.

Garments Which Need an Invisible Zipper

The most common clothing item which may have an invisible zipper are dress pants for women. This way, there can be a side zipper, which is comfortable and does not upset the fabric in the back. Some dress shirts for women might also be possible locations for the placement of an invisible zipper. Or dresses which need a bit more room can be altered to include an invisible zipper to protect the dress from ripping when it’s been put on the body.

Supplies You Will Need

The zipper and the thread color should match the clothing item as closely as possible to further hide the zipper from view.

Step 1 – Line up the Zipper

Start by laying the piece of clothing out on a flat surface, with the seam exposed where the zipper will be placed. Take the zipper and lay the zipper along the area where it will be sewn. The zipper should be 1/8 inch in from the outer edge to ensure the zipper is invisible from the outside. Once the zipper is in place, take straight pins and pin the zipper to the clothing securely.

Step 2 – Use the Grooved Zipper Foot

Take the piece of clothing and move it through the sewing machine, using a straight stitch. The foot should be aligned with the rolled edge of the fabric and the teeth of the zipper itself. Continue to sew until the stitch stops at the end of the zipper. Close the zipper at this time.

Step 3 - Sew in the Other Side of  the Zipper

Just as you sewed in the first part of the zipper, flip the garment over and do the same with the other side. Use the zipper foot again to line up the other half of the zipper with the other edge of the fabric. Once this side is in place, remove the zipper foot and it's time for the final steps.

Step 4 - Use the Regular Zipper Foot

At this point, you need to replace the grooved zipper foot with a regular zipper foot. Use this foot to sew the edges of the zipper as close to the original zipper seam as possible. Then sew down the ends of the seam to ensure the zipper doesn't stick out when closed. Fold over the fabric of the garment over the zipper and sew this in place. The seam should be at least ¼-inch from the end of the zipper.

An invisible zipper can help to make a garment look flawless and uninterrupted. With just a few simple steps, you can add an invisible zipper to a new project or an old garment.