Drywall Installation

Artwork hangs from them. Painted ones enhance the decor. They even help insulate a room. Obviously, walls are a key element of a home. So now that you are ready to complete the addition to your home, or you've finally decided to finish the basement, it's time to install the drywall. Here are some simple step by step instruction to get the job done right.

Tools and Materials:

Wallboard
T-Square
Keyhole Saw /Circle Cutter
Crow-head Hammer/ Drywall Hammer
Reinforcing Tape
Joint Compound
Screws
Adhesive
Drop Cloth
Metal Corner Strips
Sandpaper Block
Steel Rule
Sandpaper 80-100 grit
Trimming Knife
8"-10" Drywall Knife
Adhesive Gun
Trowel
Nails
1 x 4's & 2 x 4's for T-Brace
4" Joint Knife

Step 1: Planning Ahead: Always start by making a sketch of the wall and ceiling areas to be covered before applying the drywall. A sketch enables you to detect errors on paper - not on the job. Always install the wallboards perpendicular to (across) the joists on ceilings. You should apply drywall to the ceiling first, then to the walls.

Use a special water-resistant drywall where excessive moisture may be a problem. In most cases, water-resistant drywall is covered with a green finish paper.
Use a special fire-rated (Type X) drywall where building codes require the use of a fire-rated material.
If a vapor barrier is needed, use a special insulating, foil-backed wallboard, or create a vapor barrier with sheets of plastic material.

Step 2: Cutting the Drywall: You can easily cut wallboard with a scoring or trimming knife and a 4' straightedge. You may prefer to use a T-square for an even and straight cut. Measure accurately and make marks before cutting the wallboard. Use a straightedge for accuracy, and score along your marks. Be sure to cut through the paper and into the inner core. Hold the knife at a right angle to the board and score completely through the face paper. The board will break easily at the point where it is scored. After it is snapped, trim the paper on the uncut side with a pair of shears or a sharp knife. Make circular cuts and irregular angles with a keyhole or sabre saw. To cut holes in the wallboard for electrical outlets, light receptacles, switches, etc., carefully measure and mark the location of the opening of the face of the wallboard. Outline the opening in pencil and cut it out with a keyhole saw or circle cutter. The hole must be accurately located and cut to size, or the electrical coverplate may not cover the hole.

Step 3: Deciding on Single- or Double-Layer Installations: A single layer wall of 1/2" or 5/8" drywall is the simplest, fastest and most economical type of wall construction. Use a double-layer installation where extra fire protection or sound deadening is important. A double-layer also reduces the possibility of cracking and the nuisance of nails popping out if the wallboard warps or strains. This double-layer usually uses a 3/8" finish wallboard laid over a 3/8" backing board.

Step 4: Should You Use a Vertical or Horizontal Installation:
Apply drywall to leave the fewest possible joints. If the ceiling is less than 8'2" in height, use a horizontal application for 25 percent fewer joints than a vertical one. If the ceiling is higher than 8'2", install the drywall vertically (Fig. 4). On a two-layer installation, lay the base boards either vertically or horizontally - whichever requires the fewest cuts. Lay the top or finish layer over the base boards according to the preceding instructions. Any seams in the finish layer should be offset at least 10" from the seams in the base layer, or set at right angles from seams.

Step 5: Applying Drywall to the Ceiling: Apply drywall to the ceiling at right angles to the joists. If two layers are installed, set the bottom layer at right angles to the joists and the finish layer the way that leaves a minimum of seams. Holding the ceiling board in position can be difficult. If you are working alone, solve this problem by making a "T" brace from a 2' piece of a 1x4 nailed to the end of a 2x4 of sufficient length to reach from the floor to the ceiling.

Tip: The supporting 2x4 should be about 1" longer than the floor-to-floor ceiling height. If you are using only nails, nail the board to the ceiling with the proper length of nails and space them about 7" apart. Ceilings should be double nailed. When using the nail-on and adhesive method, use three nails across each wallboard at each joist. Drive one nail firmly into place at each edge and one into the center of the board. Drive the nails in just enough to tighten the wallboard to the framing. Then set the nail with a blow just hard enough to dimple the wallboard (Fig. 6). Do not drive the nails hard enough to break the coating paper.

Step 6: Wall Application of Drywall: If the drywall is being applied horizontally, install all top boards first. Push it up firmly against the ceiling, do not force it, and nail lightly into place. In areas where ceiling boards are nailed to ceiling joists, start the first run of nails on the wallboards about 7" below the ceiling. If you're applying the wall board with nails only, place all nails about 7" apart to all studs. If you're using the adhesive and nail-on method, apply nails only at the edges of the board with adhesive on the back to hold the boards to the studs in the center. If a board tends to bow out in the center, secure it with a temporary nail until the adhesive sets. Remove the holding nail after adhesive sets. If wallboards are applied vertically, place the long edges of the wallboard parallel to the framing members. Use a vertical application if your wall height is greater than 8'2". Use the same nailing procedures as previously described.

Step 7: Just Around the Corner: Special metal corner strips are available for outside corners. Insert a nail in these metal corner strips about every 5". Nail first through the edge of the strip, then through the drywall and into the wood framing.

Step 8: Getting to the Joints: Use a good grade of joint compound to finish all joints, nail heads and corners. In most cases, you'll need two or three coats of compound at all taped joints. The number of coats depends on whether you are using regular drywall tape or drywall tape that has adhesive on the back. If you are using adhesive back tape, center the tape over the joint and press it into place with your knife. Apply two finish coats over the tape. If you are using regular tape, use an embedding coal to bond the tape at each joint (Fig. 9). When the embedding coat has set, apply two finish coats over the tape. Allow each coat of joint compound to dry about 24 hours before applying the next coat.

Step 9: Putting the Finishing Touches On a Drywall Installation: Use a 4" joint finishing knife to smooth out each coat of joint compound. Fill in the slightly recessed area created by the adjoining tapered edges of the wallboards, and smooth it off with the 4" joint finishing knife.

Step 10: Taping It Up: Center the wallboard tape over the joint and press it into place if you are using the adhesive back tape. For the regular tape press it into the first layer of compound firmly, but not too hard. Hold the 4" knife at a 45 degree angle. Press just hard enough to squeeze out some of the compound from under the tape, but be sure you leave enough compound for a good bond.

With adhesive back tape you can apply the fill coat right away. With regular drywall tape, allow the tape to dry in position for at least 24 hours and then apply a fill coat, extending it a few inches beyond the edge of the tape. Feather the edges of the compound for a smooth finish. After the fill coat has dried, use a 10" joint finishing knife to apply still another coat of joint compound. Feather this coat about 1 1/2" beyond the edge of the first coat.

Step 11: Finishing Up: When the final coat is dry, sand it lightly to a smooth finish. Wipe off the dust with a clean rag to prepare the surface for the final coating of paint, paper, etc. The total width of the compound at each joint should be about 12" to 14".

Step 12: The Great Cover Up: All nails should be dimpled just below the surface of the board. Conceal these dimpled ares by applying a first coat of joint compound with even pressure so the compound is level with the surface of the board. Press evenly, but not too hard - too much pressure on the knife may scoop the compound from the dimpled area.When the compound has thoroughly dried, apply a second coat. Let it dry thoroughly, then sand it lightly and apply a third coat. In areas where humidity is extremely high, apply a fourth coat of compound over the nail heads.

Step 13. Working the Butt Joint: The end or butt joints on wallboards are not tapered. Where these untapered butt joints come together, be sure not to build up too much compound (Fig. 14). Compound built too high will create ridges in the wall, and may cause shadowing when the area is lighted. Feather the joint compound out on each side of the butt joints from 7" to 9". The final application of joint compound should create a joint approximately 14" to 18" wide where the butt joints come together.

Step 14: Apply the Metal Corner Strip: After attaching the metal corner strips as previously described, nail them securely into position, and use a 4" finish knife to spread compound mix 3" to 4" out from the nose of the bead. When the first layer is completely dry, sand it lightly and apply a second coat of compound mix., feathering the edges about 2" to 3" beyond the first coat. If a third coat is needed, feather it 2" to 3" beyond the preceding coat. This cretaes a tapered finish of joint compound approximately 7" to 9" wide at each metal corner.

Step 15: Big Finish: To finish off an inside corner with regular tape, apply joint compound with a 4" knife. Spread it evenly about 1 1/2" on each side of the angle. For both types of tape, cut the joint tape the exact length of the corner to be finished. Fold the tape lengthwise in the center and press it firmly into the corner.