Intro - Checklist - Prep - Wall Prep - Repairs - Apply - Cutting In - Large Surfaces - Trim
Margin of Error: Exact
After you have finished all the large surfaces, you are ready to paint the trim and woodwork. In order to do this successfully, you need to change your mental set about painting. Up until now most of your work has been on large surfaces, and detailing was not important. Now, you are changing from rough work to finishing work. Attention to detail and care at this stage will mean the difference between a professional looking job and a sloppy one.
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Your tools will also be different. During this stage you will be using the smaller angled brushes and metal paint guide. A 1 1/2" angled sash brush is often used for narrow molding and a 2" trim brush on wider trim. As you apply the paint to the trim and woodwork, keep a supply of clean rags near you to immediately wipe off any excess paint that gets on the previously painted surfaces. With oil-based paints, use a little mineral spirits or paint thinner. With water-based paints, a mild detergent and water will work fine. For a more durable finish, oil-based paints are most often used on trim. With these enamel paints, fingerprints are more easily removed. On trim that has been previously stained, bleeding may occur. In this case two coats of shellac will be needed first
Always paint horizontal surfaces first and then vertical surfaces. Begin with the trim closest to the ceiling and work down. Do baseboards last. When doing baseboards, paint the top edge first, then the floor edge, and finally the large center area last with a larger brush. Be sure to cover the edge of the floor with a paint guide or masking tape.
Paint inner sections of doors and windows before the outer portions. Windows especially require great care. Because of their many small areas, infinite patience is required. Apply the paint right down to the glass. The paint will thereby create a seal between the wood and the glass. You can either tape the glass or remove the excess paint later with a razor-blade knife. If you are applying masking tape to the panes, leave a hairline crack of glass exposed between the tape and the wood to be sure you have a good paint seal between the wood and glass. As soon as the paint is dry remove the tape.
Tip: To help a window move more smoothly, rub a candle or bar of soap over the wood jambs.
When painting double-paned windows, a certain order is followed. You will need to raise and lower the sashes to be able to reach all areas. Begin by painting the exterior sash. Paint the horizontal side pieces, then the vertical, and then the mullions (the pieces that divide the window into small sections). Paint the lower part of their sash first, then raise the window and do the upper part. Next, repeat this process with the interior sash. Afterward, paint the frame and trim, first the top sides and finally the sill.
Raise and lower the sashes a few times while the paint is drying to be sure they do not dry stuck. I recommend not painting the jambs (the area where the window slides) unless absolutely necessary. After the window is dry, rub a candle over any wood jamb to create easy window movement
Doors are best painted removed from their hinges and set on sawhorses. Flat doors are easily painted with rollers. Panel doors take much greater care. First remove all hardware. With panel doors, first paint the molding and the inside edges of the panel cavities. Then the panels. Finally, paint all the horizontal and vertical pieces around the panels. If the door opens into the room, paint the door's latch edge, the jamb, and the door side of the door stop as well. Once the door is dry, replace the hardware and re-hang the door.
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