Plank Replacement Plank Replacement

What You'll Need
Replacement plank - same product line
Safety glasses
Pencil or Marker pen
2, Square edge tapping blocks
Hammer
Chisel
Vise Grips (optional)
Matching Laminate Filler/Sealer
Adhesive
Blue tape
Duct tape
Utility knife
Tongue & Groove Dresser (optional)
Circular Saw with carbide blade
Table saw (optional)
Suction cups (optional)
Weighted bags or Covered blocks
Clean, Dry Cloth
Shop Vacuum Cleaner

Please Read Through Instructions Before Starting

Removal and Prep
  1. Acclimate new plank a minimum of 48 hours in the room where it is to be installed.
  2. Verify color and style of new plank and ensure that the replacement plank is of the same length and width. (Note: Manufacturing tolerances are +/- .05mm for size.) An easy way to check the size is to lay the replacement board on the existing plank face-to-face and check the fit.
  3. To protect the floor, put masking tape around the board to be replaced. Then cover the surrounding planks with a drop cloth, craft paper, or similar material to protect the existing floor. Tape the covering material to the masking tape to keep sawdust and other debris from getting under the protective covering.
  4. Next, using a felt tip or pencil, draw lines parallel to the edges of the plank to be replaced about one inch in from the edge. This will result in a rectangular saw line around the plank. See Figure 1.

Plank Replacement Figure 1

PUT ON SAFETY GLASSES AND WEAR THEM FOR THE REMAINDER OF THE PROJECT.

  1. Set circular saw blade depth to exact thickness of plank (5/16") and cut on the lines. One of your objectives is to do as little damage as possible to the foam underlayment or Quiet Stride.
  2. The "center" section of the old/damaged plank should now be removed using suction cups or a levering it out using a chisel/screwdriver. The result will be a "picture frame" effect left from the old/damaged plank.
  3. Next, we want to do relief cuts in the corners of the old/damaged plank. See Figure 2.

    Plank Replacement Figure 2

    It is VERY IMPORTANT that care be used when doing the relief cuts. DO NOT CUT into the surrounding planks. A good technique is to mark the corners of the surrounding planks with blue tape to prevent over cutting.
  4. With the circular saw, cut diagonally into the corner of the old/damaged plank. DO NOT CUT INTO THE SURROUNDING PLANKS.
  5. Make a relief cut at the center point of the damaged board to the outer edge on each of its long sides. This can also be done with a chisel. The "picture frame" should now be in several sections (both ends and at least two sections per side).
  6. Vacuum out cuts and surrounding areas.
  7. Starting at one of the sides, insert a pry bar (or lever of some type) and lift the surrounding floor. This will allow you to gently rock or wiggle the picture frame section and relax the glue bond. DO NOT MOVE THE PIECE UPWARD AS THIS MAY DAMAGE THE EDGE OF THE SURROUNDING FLOORING. ROCK OR WIGGLE THE PIECES DOWNWARD. This may take 3 or 4 times to relax the glue bond.
  8. Once the glue bond has relaxed, pull one of the side sections loose from the surrounding floor. One technique is to clamp the piece with a pair of vise grips and then use a hammer on the vise grips to remove the section. These sections may also be removed using a chisel. Remove the side/long sections first.
  9. Once the sides/long sections have been removed, take the end pieces from off using the vise grips or a chisel.
  10. Vacuum opening and surrounding areas again to make sure that no debris is under the surrounding floor or in the void where the plank was removed.
  11. Use the tongue & groover dresser or chisel and knife to remove excess glue and core fragments from the exposed tongue and groove.
  12. Use the tongue & groover dresser or chisel and knife to dress or "size" the exposed tongue and groove.
  13. Use a scrap piece of laminate flooring to: a) check the size of the tongue and groove, and b) check for a flush fit (to prevent Ledging, Proud edge, or Overwood).
  14. DO NOT FORCE THE TONGUE OF THE SCRAP PIECE INTO THE EXPOSED GROOVES, AS IT WILL CAUSE THE GROOVES TO EXPAND.
  15. Remove any blue tape still on floor.
  16. Once again, clean the work area and use a pry bar to gently lift adjoining planks. Vacuum the opening and surrounding areas.
  17. Repair any tears in the underlayment with duct tape.

Installing the New Plank

Standard Method

  1. Carefully examine the new plank for defects.
  2. Carefully place the new plank upside down and in to the opening to verify length and width. Use suction cups to make plank handling easier.
  3. WITH THIS METHOD YOU SHOULD NOT HAVE TO DRY FIT. DRY FITTING INCREASES THE CHANCES OF DAMAGING THE NEW BOARD AND ADJOINING BOARDS.
  4. With a table saw or circular saw remove the lower part of the groove on the short and long side of the new board (CAUTION: Only cut as deep as is needed to remove lower lip.)
  5. At the corner where the tongues meet, measure back from the corner approximately 1". This portion of the tongue needs to be removed. Carefully trim the corner off without disturbing the decorative top layers.
  6. On the other end of the board (away from the just removed corner), remove about 2" of tongue. These two cuts will provide you the "wiggle" room to insert the plank. See Figure 3.

Plank Replacement Figure 3

  1. Cutting off 1/16" from the outer edge of the tongues will also help to insert the plank.
  2. In the opening of the existing floor, apply adhesive into the groove (about 3/16" bead) and on the top of the tongue (about 1/8" bead) of the adjoining planks. (CAUTION: Over filling the groove will make inserting the board difficult.)
  3. Apply a 1/16"- 1/8" bead of adhesive to the top of the tongue on the new board and spread it evenly with your finger.
  4. Install the new board by inserting it (tongue edge first) on an angle into the opening in the floor.
  5. Place a square edged tapping block against the grooved end and another tapping block against the grooved side.
  6. Alternately tap on each block with a hammer. Focus on keeping the tongue end of the new board seated before fully seating the side edge.
  7. NOTE: The exposed edge in the corner where the tongues were removed needs to be monitored closely during this process as it can be damaged.
  8. You will need to press downward on the long tongue edge of the new board as it is being seated
  9. When the new board is in place, use a tapping block and hammer to seat the grooved end and side of the new board by firmly tapping on it until the new board is level with the adjoining ones.
  10. Remove excess glue with a clean, dry cloth.
  11. Place weight on the new board to apply pressure for at least 45 minutes.
  12. Protect the new board from traffic for 12 hours.

Optional Method

  1. Carefully examine the new plank or tile for defects.
  2. Carefully place the new plank or tile upside down and in to the opening to verify length and width. Use suction cups to make handling easier.
  3. WITH THIS METHOD YOU SHOULD NOT HAVE TO DRY FIT. DRY FITTING INCREASES THE CHANCES OF DAMAGING THE NEW BOARD AND ADJOINING BOARDS.
  4. Cut the tongue off the end of the new board. With a router bit, route a matching groove in the same end of the new board.
  5. With a table saw or circular saw remove the lower part of the groove on the long edge and both short ends of the new board. (CAUTION: Only cut as deep as is needed to remove lower lip.)
  6. Cut a 7" piece of spline and glue it into the grooved short end of the opening.
  7. Cut 1" off each end of the tongue on the new board.
  8. In the opening of the existing floor, apply adhesive into the groove (about 3/16" bead) and on the top of the tongue (about 1/8" bead) of the adjoining planks. (CAUTION: over filling the groove with adhesive will make inserting the board difficult.)
  9. Apply a 1/16"- 1/8" bead of adhesive to the top of the tongue on the new board and spread it evenly with your finger.
  10. Install the new board by inserting it into the grooved portion of the opening in the floor.
  11. When the new board is in place, use a tapping block and hammer to seat the grooved ends and side of the new board by firmly tapping on it until the new board is level with the adjoining ones.
  12. Remove excess glue with a clean damp cloth.
  13. Place weight on the new board to apply pressure for at least 45 minutes.
  14. Protect the new board from traffic for 12 hours.
  15. Clean up any dried residue with acetone and fill any gaps with matching latex filler.


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