Outlets, Switches, and Breakers Q and A

Circuit Breakers - Ceiling Fans - Outlets and Switches - New Wiring and Rewiring - Home Wiring - Light Switches - GFCI Wiring - General Electrical - Power and Voltage

Q. I need a new circuit breaker, but I don't have the old one with me. Are they all the same?

A. No, it's best if you bring in the old breaker and match it up. If you know the name of the brand of service box, we could also match it that way.

Q. I have a circuit breaker that tripped. Is this dangerous?
A. Usually the problem is simply an overload and you only need to run fewer appliances on the circuit. However, if it is not overloaded and it keeps tripping, you should suspect a short. Also, look for a defective cord, socket, or plug.

Q. Is it all right to replace a fuse or circuit breaker with a larger one to prevent them from blowing or tripping?

A. The answer is no. They are designed to blow at certain levels to protect equipment and for fire safety. Breakers and fuses are, in almost all instances, matched to the appropriate wire usage.

Q. What type of switches will I need to turn a light on from three different locations?

A. The start and end locations will use a three-way switch and the center location will need a four-way switch.

Q. How do I connect a wire to the terminal on my light switch?

A. Bend a stripped wire 180 degrees by bending it ovet the tips of needle-nose pliers. Wrap the wire clockwise around the screw so that it will stay in place as you tighten the screw. Don't over tighten and make sure there is no insulation under the terminal.

Q. How can you recognize a socket used for a three-way lamp?

A. This socket will have a regular contact tab inside, which all sockets have, plus another raised contact point. Midway between the center contact and the socket wall.

Q. Do all the outlets in my kitchen need to have ground-fault circuit interrupters?

A. No, if the first in the series is GFCI, then all are protected.

Q. How do I test a switch to see if it is working?

A. I recommended using a battery energized continuity tester. First, shut off the electricity going to the switch and remove it. Touch the tester leads to both of the switch's terminals. If the switch is working properly, the tester will light up when the switch is on and go out when the switch is turned off.

Q. What type of switches will I need to turn a light on from two different locations?

A. You will need a three-way switch at each location. A three-way switch will have three terminal screws on it.

Q. What is the easiest way to test an outlet?

A. Use a receptacle analyzer. Leave the power on, but make sure nothing is plugged into the outlet on the circuit, and turn off all switches on the circuit. Now, plug the analyzer into the outlet. A series of lights will tell you if the outlet is wired correctly and working.

Q. Is there a light switch that I can use to replace one in my house?

A. Yes, but is it a single pole, three-way or four-way switch? A three-way switch and a four-way switch are controlled by more than one switch.

Q. I am putting a couple of more outlets in my garage. Can I use a 14-gauge wire?

A. While 14-gauge wire is the minimum for most house wiring, it is recommended for lighting circuits only. Number 12-gauge wire is recommended for general home use. There is often a chart on boxes that will show you the recommended gauge for specific applications.

Q. I've noticed that some outlets have a t-shaped neutral slot. What does this do?

A.It identifies the outlet as a 20-amp grounded receptacle and it should be used only on 20 amp circuits.

Q. Is it easy to replace a faulty plug?

A. Yes, start by snipping off the original plug. Slide the cord into the new plug, strip the wires and connect them tot he proper terminals. For lamps and small appliances, there are quick-connect plugs. The snipped wire is inserted and a small lever is closed, which holds and pierces the wire to make the connection.

Q. Can I add additional outlets to an existing circuit?

A. You need to figure the current circuit load in watts to see if it can handle additional use. The National Electric Code is 20 percent less than maximum. This means a 15-amp circuit has a safe capacity of 1,440 watts. A 20-amp circuit limit is 1,920 watts, a 25-amp circuit limit is 2,400 watts and a 30-amp circuit has a safe limit of 2,880 watts.

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