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Now You're Cooking: Easy Fixes for Your Electric Stove/Oven


Now You're Cooking: Easy Fixes for Your Electric Stove/Oven
By Dave Donovan

The stove in your kitchen is a trusted friend. It's always been there for you. Through birthdays, holidays, family get-togethers, and weekdays, it's never let you down. But nothing lasts forever, and eventually, your old, trusty friend may need a little fixing up. We're going to go over a few common problems and their solutions, so you can be cooking again in a flash. You may even save enough money by doing it yourself to be able to afford some Grade A steak tonight!

To make things easier, read our article on how a stove works before we start. It will just give you a better understanding on how everything ties together. If you don't have one, you may have to pick up a VOM (volt-ohm meter) from your local hardware store to check some of the parts.

Problem: Nothing is working on the oven, not even the clock.
Solution: Check the breaker box for a tripped fuse or breaker. If the breaker is still on, the terminal block on the back of the oven could be bad. Turn the oven breaker OFF. Pull the oven out from the wall and remove the back cover of the oven. Check the terminal for any burn marks and the wires for any discoloring. If there aren't any, tighten down the screws holding the wires to make sure everything's tight. Make sure everybody in the house knows not to go near the oven and to keep the pets away as well. Turn the breaker back on and test the terminals with the VOM. There should be a black, a white, and a red wire. Place the probes on the black and white wires - the reading should be 120 volts. The same reading should be read when the probes are placed on the white and red wires. If they're not, the breaker is probably bad.

Problem: One of the range burners isn't heating up.
Solution: If you have the type of stove that has hardwired burners, turn the breaker OFF and check the leads on the burner - one could be off or loose. If you have the plug-in type burners, check the terminals and the connections there. If everything is tight and looks sound with no corrosion, then check the switch. Leave the power to the oven OFF and open up the control panel. Inspect for any burned or broken wires. Next, with your handy VOM (volt-ohm meter), have the setting on RX1, remove the L1 and L2 leads from a working switch and place the probes on the two leads. Check it on each heat setting. Now compare those readings with the switch that isn't working. They should be the same - if not, the switch is bad. Don't forget, when removing the old switch, record all the information in a notebook for easier installation of the new one. If the switch is good and all of the connections are clean and good, you can check the burner itself. With the burner removed from the terminals (or unscrewed from the wires), place the VOM probes (still on RX1) on the burner’s terminals. You should get a reading somewhere between 10 and 70 ohms. If so, the burner is OK.

Problem: Bake or Broil element doesn't work.
Solution: Check the connections on the element that isn't working. Turn the breaker OFF. There should be two screws holding the element in place in the rear of the oven cooking compartment. Unscrew the two screws and gently pull the element out. There should be a wire connected to each terminal. Check for burned or corroded areas. If everything looks good, then disconnect the element and check with the VOM the same way as we did with the burner above. The readings for the element should be between 10 and 40 ohms. If not, replace the element. If it is good, then it's time to check the thermostat. While you're in the oven compartment, check to make sure the thermostat's sensing tube isn't lying on or near any of the elements. On the back of the thermostat control, there should be two terminals. Remove the wires and with your VOM on RX1, place the probes on the terminals. You should get an infinity reading with the switch off. Turn the switch to 300 degrees and the reading should go to zero. If not, replace the thermostat. Be careful, and take your time replacing the thermostat. The sensing tube can be difficult to maneuver and they can be broken.

Problem: Oven temperature seems incorrect.
Solution: First, check the easiest thing. Check the oven's vent, located usually underneath the right- hand rear burner. Make sure there's nothing obstructing it. Next, check the door of the oven and its seals. A misaligned door or worn out seals can leak heat, affecting the thermostat's readings. If there are no problems there, check the thermostat's sensor tube inside the cooking compartment. Make sure it's not touching an element or the walls of the oven. If that's not the problem, then check the thermostat as detailed above.

Of course, these aren't all the problems you may face with your stove, but they are the most common ones. Always remember to turn the power OFF to the unit before taking anything apart, and don't forget to keep that notebook nearby to record what you've done for easier reinstallations. And don't forget the make and model numbers when you go to the parts supply store. Checking for the solution to the problem yourself can be a rewarding and money saving experience. Follow these easy steps and you'll be cooking again in no time!

Dave Donovan is a freelance copywriter living in Atco, N.J. An electrician for 15 years, an injury forced him to pursue his true passion - writing.

© Doityourself.com 2006

 









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posted Jan 06, 2009

BUt what causes blue smoke to come from the back of the stove? One day it poofed and snapped and all this electrical smoke came rolling out when the stove wasnt even on and then the next time i tried the oven it smoked again. is that fixable?


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