Transplant Roses with Care

Q. When is the best time to transplant roses from one bed to another, and how do I go about it? I want to build a new deck and I want to transplant my roses without damaging them.

A. The best time to transplant roses is when they are dormant - not actively growing - such as in the winter, at either the end of October or the beginning of November. Many rosarians have transplanted roses at any given time of year, though perhaps not in December or January. If you transplant in the early to mid-spring, the rose bush is still practically dormant and you therefore shock the plant less than at any other time. You also have the advantage of being able to prune correctly and inspect for obvious diseases, such as crown gall, root gall or canker. Furthermore, you will have gradually warming weather ahead of you and the growing season for regeneration of the bush.

If you transplant in the fall, timing is crucial, in so much as your weather in the Tri-state area is so unpredictable. You need to pick the days in which the soil is still reasonably warm for the newly transplanted bush to reestablish itself before the cold of winter arrives. If you wait too long, you risk losing the plant by virtually freezing it to death.

Prepare your new bed according to the correct planting methods. Dig a large hole to accommodate your plant - larger than you think necessary. Realize that you have a clump of soil together with roots rather than a bare-root plant. In order to make the digging easier and to keep the clump intact, you may wish to soak the plant two days before digging. Build a small mound in the center of the hole on which to place the plant. This helps to prevent air pockets.

Pick a day that is mild, calm and cloudy, if possible, when rain is predicted. With the spade, cut a circle around the plant that is to be moved. Take as large a root/soil ball as you can comfortably lift. Dig quickly, lift and probe occasionally to discover if the bush is moving or where the roots may be anchored. Lift the root ball and take along as much soil as possible so the root system is least disturbed. Place this on a wooden board or burlap or in the wheelbarrow.

Check the plant quickly for disease, then cover. Be especially careful not to unnecessarily expose the fine, white feeder roots to air, sun or wind. Now proceed to place the newly dug bush in the freshly prepared site, spreading out and pointing exposed roots and rootlets.

Mix in 1/2 to one cup of bone meal and Mag-Amp around the root system. Super phosphate can be used in place of or in addition to bone meal but keep it away from the roots. Be sure you set the bush slightly higher than before, as it will settle one to three inches. The bud union should therefore be one to two inches above ground level. Sprinkle and fill in thoroughly around the root system with prepared soil. Pour water in. Allow it to settle, bonding roots with soil, and carefully press slightly on the plant to help eliminate air pockets.

Now prune out the twiggy, spindly growths and the stems that grow toward the center of the bush, leaving three to five good, strong canes. These should be at least the size of your index finger and not thinner than a pencil. Prune at an angle of 45 degrees and cut down to the point where you see true white pith in the center of the cane. If you notice a bud eye emerging, cut to 1/8 inch above this. It should face toward the outside of the cane. After planting and pruning, it is advisable to spray against fungus.

At the very least, cover the bud union with soil to preserve it from drying. The rest of the bush can be protected with soil or a rose cone or a white plastic bag, the stronger the plastic, the better. Keep the plant covered for seven-ten days and check periodically for dryness. Above all, keep it wet. Studies have shown that this is the primary factor, which insures success in transplanting.

Uncover the bush on a dark, warm day toward evening, when there is no wind. If rain is expected, this is ideal. Check to see if the canes are healthy and green. Over the course of several days, wash away the soil with a stream of water from the hose, being careful not to break off any new shoots.