
Toggle Bolt
Used where the back of the wall is inaccessible.
Works on a spring principle. The holding arms open after the screw and holder are inserted into the hole, gripping the wall as the screw is tightened.
Select bolts according to the thickness of the diameters from 1/8” to 1/2”.
Fixture to be mounted must be assembled with screw and holder before inserting it into the wall.

Molly Bolt
Also known as an expansion bolt.
Consists of a screw in a metal sleeve.
When the sleeve is inserted into a pre-drilled hole and the screw is turned, the sleeve spreads.
Screw can be removed and inserted in the fixture to be mounted and replaced.

Wall Driller Anchor
For light-duty use on drywall.
Fastener makes its own hole in the drywall.
Do not use overhead.

Plastic Screw Anchor
Use with wood or sheet metal screws.
Insert into a pre-drilled hole. User drives the screw through the anchor into the wall.
Sizes range from 3/4” to 1-3/8” long
Another type of plastic anchor functions like a toggle fastener with sizes from 3/4” to 3-1/2”.
Another type pops open and locks into place before the screw is inserted.

Self-Tapping Concrete Screw
Hardened steel screws designed to cut threads in pre-drilled holes.
Holes can be drilled through the item to be fastened without moving the fixture.
Head styles are Phillips, flat or hex-washer.
Used in poured concrete, concrete block or masonry.
Pull-out resistance of concrete screws is much greater than in plastic screw anchors because they bite directly into the concrete.

Drop-In Anchor
Expandable concrete anchors set in pre-drilled holes.
Accepts standard coarse thread bolts or threaded rod.
Drop-in style anchors do not require patching after sinking.
Comes in sizes to fit 1/4” to 3/4”.

Impact-Expansion Concrete Anchor
Diameter sizes range from 1/4” to 3/4” and lengths from 1-3/4” to 6”.
The drill size used should be the same as the anchor diameter.
Setting the anchor requires driving the center pin down to the top of the anchor, which expands the sides of the anchor against the walls of the hole.
The hole can be drilled through the item to be fastened without moving the fixture.
Anchor can be plated hardened steel or stainless steel.

Wedge Anchor
Has a shank similar to a sleeve anchor—a solid shank, threaded at the top and with a cone-shaped plug at the bottom.
Shank is grooved on opposite sides.
As the nut on top is tightened, the washer pushes the rectangular shank down and spreads the wedges over the plug.

Sleeve Anchor
Has a steel sleeve on the shank, split at the bottom so it can expand.
The bolt has a cone-shaped plug at the base and a nut at the top.
When the user places the anchor in the hole and tightens the nut, it draws the bolt upward, pulling the plug into the sleeve and expanding it against the hole.

Lag Screw Shield
Used inside drilled holes to provide anchors in the hole for lag bolts as they are wrenched into the shield.
As the screw enters the shield, the shield expands and grips the interior.
Horizontal fins prevent the shield from turning in the hole while tapered ribs ease insertion and ensure against slips.

Expansion Shield
Also known as lead shield.
Used with lag and machine bolts.
As the bolt is tightened, the cone draws up through a slotted sleeve and expands against the interior of the drilled hole with great force.
Requires no caulking and is excellent for heavy holding of problem material such as cement, cinder blocks, hollow tile and other concrete mixes.
Requires a large hole. Use a power drill and masonry bit.
Use short lengths in good-grade concrete or where thickness limits the length. Use long lengths in poorer-grade concrete where extra anchorage is required.

Drive Anchor
Made of high-strength spring steel or of aluminum with a stainless steel pin for use in hard materials.
Driven into a hole where it is compressed and forced against the walls of the hole.
Comes in three head styles: round, countersunk and stud. The stud type provides temporary attachment of items that must later be removed.
Courtesy of NRHA.org