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Weatherization Tips for a More Energy Efficient Home


Weatherization Tips for a More Energy Efficient Home
  • First, test your home for air tightness. On a windy day, hold a lit incense stick next to your windows, doors, electrical boxes, plumbing fixtures, electrical outlets, ceiling fixtures, attic hatches, and other locations where there is a possible air path to the outside. If the smoke stream travels horizontally, you have located an air leak that may need caulking, sealing, or weatherstripping.
  • Caulk and weatherstrip doors and windows that leak air.
  • Caulk and seal air leaks where plumbing, ducting, or electrical wiring penetrates through exterior walls, floors, ceilings, and soffits over cabinets.
  • Install rubber gaskets behind outlet and switch plates on exterior walls.
  • Look for dirty spots in your insulation, which often indicate holes where air leaks into and out of your house. You can seal the holes by stapling sheets of plastic over the holes and caulking the edges of the plastic.
  • Install storm windows over single-pane windows or replace them with double-pane windows. Storm windows as much as double the R-value of single-pane windows and they can help reduce drafts, water condensation, and frost formation. As a less costly and less permanent alternative, you can use a heavy-duty, clear plastic sheet on a frame or tape clear plastic film to the inside of your window frames during the cold winter months. Remember, the plastic must be sealed tightly to the frame to help reduce infiltration.
  • When the fireplace is not in use, keep the flue damper tightly closed. A chimney is designed specifically for smoke to escape, so until you close it, warm air escapes—24 hours a day!
  • For new construction, reduce exterior wall leaks by either installing house wrap, taping the joints of exterior sheathing, or comprehensively caulking and sealing the exterior walls.

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posted Dec 27, 2009

Most people would agree that leaving a window open in the winter would not be a good idea. However, homes with uncovered whole house fans are essentially doing just that –increasing energy usage and costs for the homeowner. While whole house fans use far less energy than air conditioners when in use, the systems provide little to no insulating value. In the winter, when you’re heating the home, they let hot air out and cold air in. In the summer, when the air conditioning is running, they let hot air in and cold air out. Homeowners can save a tremendous amount of energy – and money – by covering and insulating the opening. Covers for whole house fans are commercially available.

posted Jul 29, 2008

It is worth a note: Dont use expanding foam to insulate around doors or window frames before putting the molding back on. If you do it will apply constant pressure to the frame that could ruin the seal of the window or door.

If you are unlucky enough to not have a damper for your fireplace you can use a chimney balloon to plug the flue.


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