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Winemaking For The Home Enthusiast - Getting Started


Winemaking For The Home Enthusiast - Getting Started

 By Alden Smith

Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3

You have assembled the equipment necessary to make a batch of wine.  We now proceed to the process of making it.

Getting Started

It is always easier to make a good red wine than a white, mainly because of reasons of clarity and sensitivity to air.  We will use a red as an example here. 

You have selected quality grapes from a reputable source.  Before beginning, a yeast starter should be made so that it is active before the grapes are pressed.

Cull out any bad fruit. Remove the stems, and run through the crusher.  The grapes, skins on, are fermented for several days with a small amount of potassium metabisulfite, amount depending on the condition of the grapes.  Skins are kept punched down in this step, doing so a few times each day.

The grape mixture, called “must” is transferred to the press, and all liquid is squeezed out. 

The yeast starter is added to the must by sprinkling over the top - this allows air to stimulate yeast multiplication.

Test total sugar and acid levels in the must as soon after pressing as possible.  Use the hydrometer to check the sugar level.  It should be between 18-24 degrees Brix. An inexpensive titration test kit is used to test acid levels.  Acid levels would ideally be between 6 to 9 grams per liter.

After testing and making corrections, if any, the must should be transferred to a clean carboy for full fermentation.  Fill the carboy three quarters full, allowing for foaming of the must during fermentation. Cover the neck with cheesecloth. Save excess must to top off carboy when fermentation is at the recommended level.

Fermentation will start within 24 to 36 hours. Once the fermentation starts, the most important thing is to eliminate exposure to air.  Stopper the bung with a rubber bung stopper that has a hole for an air lock.  Fill the air lock with sulfite solution to prevent both air leakage and to discourage fruit flies. The airlock gives you a good indicator as to how fermentation is going due to the visibly rising bubbles.

During the first part of fermentation, a sample should be taken and Brix measured.  A wine thief is used along with a hydrometer to draw a small amount of must from the carboy.  If the sugar level drops more than 5 degrees Brix per day, it is fermenting too quickly, possibly due to improper temperature. Correct if necessary.  When the Brix drops below 10 degrees, you can relax. The fast fermentation process is over.

Top the carboy off to eliminate any air.  Use the excess must to accomplish this.  A good wine of comparable flavor or a grape concentrate also works well.  Replace stopper and air lock and allow the fermentation process to end.  Depending on temperature, the process can take several weeks.  Use a tablet called Clinitest to determine if fermentation is ended.

In Part 3, we discuss racking and bottling.

Alden Smith is an aware winning author and regular contributor to DoItYourself.com.  He writes on a variety of subject and excels in research.

Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3









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posted Nov 14, 2008

Hey folks, a buddy of mine has a great source for wine grapes. It's out of CT and he ships all over the country. Visit him at www.juicegrape.com good luck


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