- What are the X10 Active Home Components?
- How should I design the wiring of my new home to accommodate X10?
What are the X10 Active Home Components?
Active Home Software - This easy-to-use program empowers users to schedule times/days for lights and appliances to turn on and off, in addition to creating powerful routines called macros.
Computer interface - The interface allows the computer to communicate with lights and appliances throughout the home remotely. Once programmed, the interface unit can be disconnected from the computer and still control functions from any outlet in the home.
6-in-1 Super remote - The remote acts as both a home automation and home entertainment tool providing controls for six different functions. Use the universal remote for your TV, VCR, cable, etc. Hit the X10 button, now the remote will control lights and appliances manually and activate programmed macros.
Transceiver module - The transceiver module translates radio frequency signals from wireless controllers into a powerline signal that controls AC modules. This unit also functions at the same time as an appliance module.
Lamp module - The lamp module receives commands from the Active Home software to turn on or off and brighten or dim any lamp.
Key Chain remote - The keychain remote is a portable wireless unit that controls two modules from up to 100 feet away.
How should I design the wiring of my new home to accommodate X10?
Most X10 receivers and transmitters can be plugged or wired into conventional wiring in any home without any special preparation or design. However, if you have the luxury of designing the wiring in your home before it is built, there are a few things you may wish to consider.
A conventional light switch is wired into the circuit between the power panel and the light it controls. Wiring conventional three-way (or more) switches for use at the top and bottom of the stairs for example, takes special wiring and foresight. There are X10 wall switches to replace conventional switches in conventional wiring, both for simple on/off and three-way control.
You may wish, however, to put dedicated control modules into built-in light fixtures and wire these fixtures directly to the power supply with no conventional switch. You could then turn the lights on or off from X10 transmitter anywhere in the house. Of course, you may wish to put in a conventional switch somewhere so you could manually enable/disable the light fixture independent of X10 on/off control.
You would probably want to install wall mounted controllers instead of light switches at convenient places like entrances or stairways. The wiring for these wall mounted controllers is just like the wiring for a power outlet: two wires direct to the power supply. This is NOT the same as wiring for a conventional light switch. By changing the settings on the control modules and the wall mounted controllers you can link any switch to any light. Any light can be controlled in a three-way (or four-way, or more) manner just by adding more wall mounted controllers wherever convenient. A motion/sunup/sundown detector is a good addition to any house. You will probably want to wire this in a conventional circuit controlled by a conventional light switch. This way you can disable it (stop it from sending X10 signals) if you have to. Other things you could consider are dedicated outlets in convenient locations for Christmas lights (few house builders ever think of this). This will avoid running extension cords out the garage or off the outdoor light fixtures.
In Canada and other occasionally frigid climates you might consider controlling the outlet for your block heater by X10, but watch that the power drawn by the heater doesn't exceed the capacity of the X10 receiver. You may wish to document clearly how you have wired the house in case you ever sell it. It may not be obvious to the next occupant, or to any electrician he hires to "fix" things. Don't forget telephone wiring. For the ultimate house, you'll want at least one unlisted telephone line for remote control of your house from a DTMF phone anywhere in the world. This will take a telephone interface such as X10:TR551 or LEV:6325. While this might see like an expensive luxury, think of what you could do by calling to turn off your fax machine, and turn on your computer so that you could call it (on a separate line) to transfer data. When done, you turn it off (or better, have it turn itself off by sending the proper command to its X10 interface) and turn on the fax machine again. Also don't forget to allow for future expansion. Run empty conduit from each room to a central location (AKA wiring closet). Class 125 PVC water pipe is cheaper than Schedule 40 conduit. That way you can snake wires to each room without climbing into the attic, under the house or running wires under carpets, etc. Eventually you will want to add something new (motion detectors and other security related items, temperature sensors, computer networks, serial terminal lines, another phone line, TV, speaker wires, etc etc etc). While you are at it, run a few 8 conductor cables to each room. Terminate these cables and the conduit in a couple of electrical outlet boxes with blank covers. X10 can't do everything.
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