Ok to use this grease on my truck?
#1
Ok to use this grease on my truck?
I have a 92' Ford Ranger XLT with 2.9 V6 and touch drive 4WD. I am gong to repack my front disc brake wheel bearings sometime this year before it gets really hot. I have never done a bearing repack on this this truck by myself.
I saw this product in the auto parts store called Omni lubricants green grease. It says it's waterproof, lasts up to 8 times longer, and can be used for auto, marine, farm equipment, etc.
I'd like to use it for everything...........front disc brake wheel bearings, chassis, steering linkage, U-joints. Is it ok to use this product for my purposes? Thanks
I saw this product in the auto parts store called Omni lubricants green grease. It says it's waterproof, lasts up to 8 times longer, and can be used for auto, marine, farm equipment, etc.
I'd like to use it for everything...........front disc brake wheel bearings, chassis, steering linkage, U-joints. Is it ok to use this product for my purposes? Thanks
#2
Group Moderator
I did some quick research but I couldnt find what weight grease it is. Its been a long time since I packed wheel bearings but I am quite sure I used to use 90 wt grease for wheel bearings.
This stuff is in a tube like it is supposed to be used in a grease gun so, without knowing much about the product, on the face I'd say its ok to use, but I am not familiar with the product. I'd say if its 90 wt grease, the consistency would be good. Also, if it is designed to use in a grease gun, again, I'd say its fine.
Hopefully someone else will come along that may be more familiar with the product.
This stuff is in a tube like it is supposed to be used in a grease gun so, without knowing much about the product, on the face I'd say its ok to use, but I am not familiar with the product. I'd say if its 90 wt grease, the consistency would be good. Also, if it is designed to use in a grease gun, again, I'd say its fine.
Hopefully someone else will come along that may be more familiar with the product.
#3
It's a synthetic grease and it shows it can be used for everything you've listed.
I'd never heard of it so I searched for some reviews. It appears that everyone had a positive experience with it.
I'd never heard of it so I searched for some reviews. It appears that everyone had a positive experience with it.
#4
Forum Topic Moderator
I've not worked on your model truck but on a full size Ford 4x4 you need a special socket to remove the retaining ring to access the bearings [same thing on jeeps] Basically it's a big socket with 4 ears on it that engage with the ring. You'll want to double check and make sure you have the correct tools before you start.
#5
I know things have gotten where you can use one thing for everything in many cases (think antifreeze and brake fluid), but....
I'd be a bit leery of using it on disc brake wheel bearings without some specific statement saying it would be ok.
They also say it's good for sealed bearings. Uh, how exactly do you get it in a sealed bearing?
If you don't have disc brakes, then pump away.
I'd be a bit leery of using it on disc brake wheel bearings without some specific statement saying it would be ok.
They also say it's good for sealed bearings. Uh, how exactly do you get it in a sealed bearing?
If you don't have disc brakes, then pump away.
#7
I just went down to the Auto Zone and wrote down some specs from the tube label. It didn't say anything about 90 or weight. I looked at Wirepuller's link also
1. It's synthetic polymer
2. Compatible with lithium and petroleum based
3. 80# Timken rating
4. NLGI#2
I'm glad Marksr mentioned this special tool. On my make/model, it looks like the intricate auto locking hub parts are combined with the front wheel bearings on the spindle. It also uses this cam assembly with a locking key. So these little parts need to be put back in the correct order with bearings. I've had a couple mechanics say this set up is a poor design.
In the past, I looked into converting it to manual locking hub.
1. It's synthetic polymer
2. Compatible with lithium and petroleum based
3. 80# Timken rating
4. NLGI#2
I'm glad Marksr mentioned this special tool. On my make/model, it looks like the intricate auto locking hub parts are combined with the front wheel bearings on the spindle. It also uses this cam assembly with a locking key. So these little parts need to be put back in the correct order with bearings. I've had a couple mechanics say this set up is a poor design.
In the past, I looked into converting it to manual locking hub.
#8
Wirepuller...I saw what it said about uses, but I saw nothing that specifically said disc brake wheel bearings (again, if he has discs). Even the statement that does mention wheel bearings seems to be saying general automotive use AND boat trailer wheel bearings (due to the water resistance I would guess).
It's just a bit difficult to believe that one grease that handles relatively light loads and temps is also suitable for high speed/high temp applications.
I normally have 3 tubs of bulk grease. White lithium for light uses, regular greenish black GP grease for suspension and other zerk fittings, and the red high temp bearing grease.
It's just a bit difficult to believe that one grease that handles relatively light loads and temps is also suitable for high speed/high temp applications.
I normally have 3 tubs of bulk grease. White lithium for light uses, regular greenish black GP grease for suspension and other zerk fittings, and the red high temp bearing grease.
#10
I see what Vic is saying too. There is a Valvoline Ford/Lincoln/Mercury grease that will definitely lube everything on my truck.
I was just hoping to use the green grease thinking it might stand up better in the extreme Arizona summer heat. Or I could mix and match like Vic does.
And yes. My truck uses front disc brakes and rear drums.
I was just hoping to use the green grease thinking it might stand up better in the extreme Arizona summer heat. Or I could mix and match like Vic does.
And yes. My truck uses front disc brakes and rear drums.
#11
Air temp is a pretty negligible factor when you consider the heat generated by normal operation of a bearing or U-joint.
#12
I was a mechanic in Phoenix for many years and never had a problem with air temps on grease. Only greases I would not use is the old fibrous types. I haven't seen these in 40+ years. We just used a general all purpose grease and never had a problem.
#14
I still plan to repack the bearings.
Currently, I am looking into a 4WD auto locking hub to manual locking hub conversion. They sell kits that substitute a few parts and the disassembly required appears to be minor. I want to be done with that lock and keyway arrangement. I will report back.
Currently, I am looking into a 4WD auto locking hub to manual locking hub conversion. They sell kits that substitute a few parts and the disassembly required appears to be minor. I want to be done with that lock and keyway arrangement. I will report back.
#15
I'm waiting on a few parts before I do the bearing repack.
I was looking at a diagram in my Chilton's manual. I notice there is a spindle needle bearing behind the spindle. Do you guys ever replace those when you repack the wheel bearings? My truck is 25 years old now.
I was looking at a diagram in my Chilton's manual. I notice there is a spindle needle bearing behind the spindle. Do you guys ever replace those when you repack the wheel bearings? My truck is 25 years old now.
#16
I completed this task today. I replaced and repacked the bearings and seals. I also converted to Mile Marker brand manual locking 4WD hubs. No more cam assembly and keyway.
Drives fine.
I think the bearings torque might need some more adjustment. That small amount of up/down play with the axle spline isn't there. I'll wait maybe wait a week before I recheck adjustment. I'll figure it out myself. Thanks for your help.
Drives fine.
I think the bearings torque might need some more adjustment. That small amount of up/down play with the axle spline isn't there. I'll wait maybe wait a week before I recheck adjustment. I'll figure it out myself. Thanks for your help.