Installing Ecobee4 but lack a C wire
#1
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Installing Ecobee4 but lack a C wire
Hi Guys, I thought I'd continue an existing thread rather than starting a new one. (Please let me know if that's not the best approach).
I have an existing 2 wire unit that I am trying to install an Ecobee4 to control. I have done some reading/research through this forum and the Ecobee support section and I am still confused as to the exact approach I should take.
My existing control board for my heater is below:
B9ey41cCRlr1TmY3ZDA1aUJFOFlkcy1aeUEycUZNc21FYWNn
ey41cCRlr1MUh3UkFSM1FOWUZEZjBEaDI5N2ZMdmR4WG1r
And my existing heather thermostat is:
ey41cCRlr1OUZGaDFWaXM3X3U1blFpcDB2Q3dBU2dRLU9r
From what I can gather, I needs to purchase a "FAST-STAT common maker and sender" to create the 3 wires (R,W & C) I need to make the Ecobee4 work, using my existing 2 wires on the control board (marked 'T/Stat'). I have been doing some reading from this link - https://support.ecobee.com/hc/en-us/...-installations
Just wondering if this is the best approach or not?
The other issue is actually being able to buy the FAST-STAT equipment as Amazon appears to have none in stock or an indication of when it will be back in stock.
Appreciate any help you guys can give me on this!
Thanks,
Dane
Mod note: member from Australia
I have an existing 2 wire unit that I am trying to install an Ecobee4 to control. I have done some reading/research through this forum and the Ecobee support section and I am still confused as to the exact approach I should take.
My existing control board for my heater is below:
B9ey41cCRlr1TmY3ZDA1aUJFOFlkcy1aeUEycUZNc21FYWNn
ey41cCRlr1MUh3UkFSM1FOWUZEZjBEaDI5N2ZMdmR4WG1r
And my existing heather thermostat is:
ey41cCRlr1OUZGaDFWaXM3X3U1blFpcDB2Q3dBU2dRLU9r
From what I can gather, I needs to purchase a "FAST-STAT common maker and sender" to create the 3 wires (R,W & C) I need to make the Ecobee4 work, using my existing 2 wires on the control board (marked 'T/Stat'). I have been doing some reading from this link - https://support.ecobee.com/hc/en-us/...-installations
Just wondering if this is the best approach or not?
The other issue is actually being able to buy the FAST-STAT equipment as Amazon appears to have none in stock or an indication of when it will be back in stock.
Appreciate any help you guys can give me on this!
Thanks,
Dane
Mod note: member from Australia
Last edited by PJmax; 01-08-18 at 06:48 PM. Reason: added pics from links
#2
Welcome to the forums.
I'll be moving this to its own thread. Your system is nothing like the one in this thread.
You have a data type communicating system. That thermostat tells your heating (cooling ??) what to do based on digital commands. I don't recognize the control board used there and cannot tell you how to bypass it. The Fenwal unit is just for the furnace ignition. The control board tells that when to fire and when to activate the blower. I'd need to see the service manual for that furnace or a wiring diagram but based on what i see in the pictures..... no Ecobee for you.
I'll be moving this to its own thread. Your system is nothing like the one in this thread.
You have a data type communicating system. That thermostat tells your heating (cooling ??) what to do based on digital commands. I don't recognize the control board used there and cannot tell you how to bypass it. The Fenwal unit is just for the furnace ignition. The control board tells that when to fire and when to activate the blower. I'd need to see the service manual for that furnace or a wiring diagram but based on what i see in the pictures..... no Ecobee for you.
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Thanks for that Pete, I'm not 100% on the exact model, but it should be covered in this - https://www.energyaustralia.com.au/r...n%20Manual.pdf
I'll take some more photos this afternoon and post them up.
I'll take some more photos this afternoon and post them up.
#4
I looked over the manual. No real wiring diagrams in there but it looks like that control board is integral to the operation of that unit. I don't think you can run the system without it.
Is this just heat or heating and cooling ?
Is this just heat or heating and cooling ?
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The is a central heating unit only. No cooling.
If I connect the 2 wires together that were wired into the existing thermostat, the heather turns one until the wires are pulled apart.
I assumed (stupidly obviously) that a smart controller would be able to manage this, but it looks like I am wrong...
Probably should have researched better before buying!
If I connect the 2 wires together that were wired into the existing thermostat, the heather turns one until the wires are pulled apart.
I assumed (stupidly obviously) that a smart controller would be able to manage this, but it looks like I am wrong...
Probably should have researched better before buying!
#6
You could power the ignition board from the ecobee but the blower is controlled by that SCC board. No easy easy way to have the ecobee control the blower. There is also a sensor inside the duct that reports back to the SCC board. The ecobee can't use it.
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Well that sucks, I assume any of these methods would result in the Ecobee having power and being able to switch the ignition board. But the blower would never turn on?
https://www.fast-stat.net/pdf/Common...ctions-Set.pdf
https://www.fast-stat.net/pdf/Common...ctions-Set.pdf
#8
Do you know any people down there in the HVAC trade ?
They may be able to help you.
I've never worked with that unit you have.
They may be able to help you.
I've never worked with that unit you have.
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unfortunately not. I might try and find a great forum like this that is Australian based. Hopefully someone here might have done something similar already!
Thanks for your help so far, much appreciated!
Thanks for your help so far, much appreciated!
#11
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On the circuit board to the right of the green Earth dot is a white box marked 24 volt transformer. Those wires go transformer partially visible in the upper right corner of picture. One of the two black wires in that box is C.
Use a volt meter and measure from one black wire to the thermostat wires. One of the 2 will read 24 volts. That is C wire.
Use a volt meter and measure from one black wire to the thermostat wires. One of the 2 will read 24 volts. That is C wire.
#12
Doug got me thinking. When I look closer at your stat I see it's connected to Rh and W. That means that it is not a communicating thermostat. The part that needs to be checked into is that there are two brown wires on the thermostat but not at the control board. Do you know why ?
Looks like gray at the board.
Looks like gray at the board.
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Hi doughess - you are correct, there is a 24VAC transformer just out of the picture. I assume I just find the 24V, use this as the common and then the normal R and W wires that the old thermostat used? Then this should suffice the Ecobee?
PJMax - I ran new wiring to the circuit board as I have moved the thermostat location and could not pull back the old brown wiring. I went to connect it all up (new grey wiring) and realised during this process I needed to get some help. Sorry for the confusion!
PJMax - I ran new wiring to the circuit board as I have moved the thermostat location and could not pull back the old brown wiring. I went to connect it all up (new grey wiring) and realised during this process I needed to get some help. Sorry for the confusion!
#14
Are you going to pull a third wire to the stat for C ? It would simplify things.
In the picture below...... you don't know whether A or B is W or R. You will need to determine that. If you run a third wire to the stat..... it can be done there. You need to use a voltmeter set to AC voltage to read 24vac. You need to check from A to C or B to C. One will show 24vac. Mark that terminal with an R. The other terminal is W.
In the picture below...... you don't know whether A or B is W or R. You will need to determine that. If you run a third wire to the stat..... it can be done there. You need to use a voltmeter set to AC voltage to read 24vac. You need to check from A to C or B to C. One will show 24vac. Mark that terminal with an R. The other terminal is W.
Last edited by PJmax; 01-09-18 at 05:03 PM.
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Yes, I can pull the second set of grey wires from the "24V Refrig Output" as they run to the new location for the thermostat. I initially thought this was labelled "24V output" before cleaned away the dust, hence I thought I could pull the common from there.
I have a further question sorry! But these 2 black wires are the wires that come out from the low voltage side of the transformer
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1fM...uX7Z1N-0XseSR4
(I am not 100% on where the black ground/earth wire comes from)
Are you certain that the wire you marked C is still the common to use?
I have a further question sorry! But these 2 black wires are the wires that come out from the low voltage side of the transformer
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1fM...uX7Z1N-0XseSR4
(I am not 100% on where the black ground/earth wire comes from)
Are you certain that the wire you marked C is still the common to use?
#16
How dare you question me.
Yes..... I incorrectly marked my picture. The correct terminal has been marked.
Good catch.
Yes..... I incorrectly marked my picture. The correct terminal has been marked.
Good catch.
#17
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Now I think you have given me more credit than I deserve, now I am even more confused! I was expecting the'C' to be either X or Y marked below. But are you saying it is Z?
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1JD...eqVj7xEm9UdVQn
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1JD...eqVj7xEm9UdVQn
#18
I added a pink circle to the diagram. Aren't these the two secondary wires from the transformer ?
That long black one you have circled looks like a primary lead to high voltage.
That long black one you have circled looks like a primary lead to high voltage.
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The 2 black wires I circled are exiting the low voltage side of the transformer. The pink wire you circled I cannot remember where that comes from.
From memory, there were only 2 black wires leaving the transformer, both of them are what I circled in red.
From memory, there were only 2 black wires leaving the transformer, both of them are what I circled in red.
#20
You need to double check. It would make sense the two I circled where the secondary. The black wire you circled connects to the blue/neutral buss area of the board. That should not be a low voltage connection point.
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I am sorry PJmax, you were correct with your black wire assumption, the 2 black wires next to each other are in fact the low voltage from the transformer.
I did some checking of voltages with a multi meter:
A to B = 27V
A to C = 27V
A to D = 0V
B to C = 0V
B to D = 27V
C to D = 27V
Referencing the image in the below (plus the link if the attachment doesn't work):
https://drive.google.com/open?id=12t...2VsYOBn1SWkwYJ
I also have an image of the wiring diagram from the underside of the heater cover if it's useful:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Ne...p5D8B2YwJZLf6r
I did some checking of voltages with a multi meter:
A to B = 27V
A to C = 27V
A to D = 0V
B to C = 0V
B to D = 27V
C to D = 27V
Referencing the image in the below (plus the link if the attachment doesn't work):
https://drive.google.com/open?id=12t...2VsYOBn1SWkwYJ
I also have an image of the wiring diagram from the underside of the heater cover if it's useful:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Ne...p5D8B2YwJZLf6r
#22
So A is the R terminal and B is the W connection.
Just to verify...... R to C =24v and W to C = 0v.
Just to verify...... R to C =24v and W to C = 0v.
Last edited by PJmax; 01-15-18 at 08:29 PM. Reason: corrected diagram
#23
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Pjmax
On low voltage thermostats terminals Rh and W when connected together start the burner, or whatever. They have no significance or implication to whether thermostat “communicates” via wifi, bluetooth or IR.
“Doug got me thinking. When I look closer at your stat I see it's connected to Rh and W. That means that it is not a communicating thermostat. “
On low voltage thermostats terminals Rh and W when connected together start the burner, or whatever. They have no significance or implication to whether thermostat “communicates” via wifi, bluetooth or IR.
#25
@doug...
I didn't see that the wires were on R and W at the stat until I enlarged that part of the picture. That basic stat connection was not shown in the manual.
I didn't see that the wires were on R and W at the stat until I enlarged that part of the picture. That basic stat connection was not shown in the manual.
#27
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Go back to where those wires come from and measure there. Another way is to take thermostat there and temporarily connect it.
Older thermostats had one letter terminals: R W G O Y, etc.
R is one side of 24 volts. C is other side of 24 VAC transformer but was not on most older ones. Separate Rh and Rc terminals are used to avoid issues.
Newer thermostats use Rh for heating and Rc for air conditioner. Heating and AC units may use separate 24 VAC transformers that if interconnected could cause problems.
Old Honeywell clock thermostats actually had two 24 VAC transformers, one just for clock.
Older thermostats had one letter terminals: R W G O Y, etc.
R is one side of 24 volts. C is other side of 24 VAC transformer but was not on most older ones. Separate Rh and Rc terminals are used to avoid issues.
Newer thermostats use Rh for heating and Rc for air conditioner. Heating and AC units may use separate 24 VAC transformers that if interconnected could cause problems.
Old Honeywell clock thermostats actually had two 24 VAC transformers, one just for clock.
Last edited by doughess; 01-11-18 at 07:46 AM.
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Hi Doug,
Exactly the same voltage meausured at the control board and the thermostat still does not work when connected at the control board.
I tried running new thicker guage wire for this and still no love.
I also connected R & W up to make the heater run and the ecobee still didn't turn on.
Thoughts?
Exactly the same voltage meausured at the control board and the thermostat still does not work when connected at the control board.
I tried running new thicker guage wire for this and still no love.
I also connected R & W up to make the heater run and the ecobee still didn't turn on.
Thoughts?
Last edited by Dane_Aus; 01-11-18 at 11:48 AM.
#29
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verify that there is 24 VAC between the C and R terminals. If 24 VAC then problem is in Nest.
I would never buy a Nest so can help with hands on experience.
I would never buy a Nest so can help with hands on experience.
Last edited by doughess; 01-11-18 at 06:05 PM.
#30
Doug.... this is an Ecobee 4.
Not sure if it's a new one but..... if there is 24vac on the Rc and C terminals..... the stat should work. You should be using C, Rc and W1 on the ecobee 4.
I will be moving this thread to the "thermostat" forum tomorrow.
I didn't even realize it's the boiler area.
Not sure if it's a new one but..... if there is 24vac on the Rc and C terminals..... the stat should work. You should be using C, Rc and W1 on the ecobee 4.
I will be moving this thread to the "thermostat" forum tomorrow.
I didn't even realize it's the boiler area.
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Hi Pete, brand new from Amazon.
I have tried it wired:
- Rc, C & W1
- Rc, C & W2
- Rh, C & W1
- Rh, C & W2
None work.
The only other thought I had was to connect the other low voltage wire out of the transformer to Rc, +24V from transformer to C, R to Rh and W to W1 and see if this powers up the unit.
Sorry about the thread location, I just followed a similar ecobee question as I thought it wouldn't need it's own thread. Apologies if that wasn't the correct way to go about it.
I have tried it wired:
- Rc, C & W1
- Rc, C & W2
- Rh, C & W1
- Rh, C & W2
None work.
The only other thought I had was to connect the other low voltage wire out of the transformer to Rc, +24V from transformer to C, R to Rh and W to W1 and see if this powers up the unit.
Sorry about the thread location, I just followed a similar ecobee question as I thought it wouldn't need it's own thread. Apologies if that wasn't the correct way to go about it.
#32
You could try both transformer leads right at the control board to C and Rc to see if the stat powers up.
#33
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Some thermostats use Rh for heating and Rc for air conditioner. Heating and AC units may use separate 24 VAC transformers that if interconnected could cause problems. Thermostat should work with wire to either.
Dane_Aus should be aware of the different functions of Rc and Rh. On systems with a single "R" wire for both heating and cooling Rc and Rh are jumper-ed or there may be a setup option to operate either way.
Dane_Aus should be aware of the different functions of Rc and Rh. On systems with a single "R" wire for both heating and cooling Rc and Rh are jumper-ed or there may be a setup option to operate either way.
#35
Basically C is ground so the wire can connect to a ground screw on the control chassis.
As mentioned previously.... this is an Ecobee 4 stat and does not want the R's combined. Their wiring diagram illustrate using the Rc terminal for single R wire connection.
Actually what we need to know is if the 24vac is measured on Rc and C with the stat actually connected. If yes..... the stat is at fault.
As mentioned previously.... this is an Ecobee 4 stat and does not want the R's combined. Their wiring diagram illustrate using the Rc terminal for single R wire connection.
Actually what we need to know is if the 24vac is measured on Rc and C with the stat actually connected. If yes..... the stat is at fault.
#37
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Pjmax
Wrong. C should never be connected to earth ground on metal frames or whatever. C should not be considered as ground. C stands for "common". Within the 24 VAC control circuits C is the common side of power for various items.
A basic concept for ungrounded C is to isolate 24 VAC circuits from 120 VAC power in case there was accidental contact with AC hot. This way if 120 VAC hot makes contact with either side of electrically isolated 24 VAC nothing should be harmed. But then there is always Murphy's Law which in case might literally spark a house fire.
Basically C is ground so the wire can connect to a ground screw on the control chassis.
Wrong. C should never be connected to earth ground on metal frames or whatever. C should not be considered as ground. C stands for "common". Within the 24 VAC control circuits C is the common side of power for various items.
A basic concept for ungrounded C is to isolate 24 VAC circuits from 120 VAC power in case there was accidental contact with AC hot. This way if 120 VAC hot makes contact with either side of electrically isolated 24 VAC nothing should be harmed. But then there is always Murphy's Law which in case might literally spark a house fire.
Last edited by doughess; 01-12-18 at 09:03 PM.
#38
Are you following this thread. Let me call your attention to this picture where one of the secondary transformer leads is connected directly to ground.
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If you blow up this diagram -
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ney...2YwJZLf6r/view
on the left side it definitely shows one lead of the secondary on the transformer going to earth ground, and the green-yellow wire (marked blue “C” in post #38) also going to earth ground. That matches the posted pictures.
But I find it curious that Dane never asked, or it never came up, precisely at which point the new “C” wire should be connected and how to do it. Do you need a new connector, etc.? Those are questions I would have had – but I don’t mess with this stuff much and Dane may be way ahead of me there.
Will the ecobee actually power up with just Rc and C connected? I wonder if it will refuse to power up if W1 isn’t also connected. You would think Rc and C would be enough but it seems to me the manual section for Troubleshooting Power-ON problems is vague.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ney...2YwJZLf6r/view
on the left side it definitely shows one lead of the secondary on the transformer going to earth ground, and the green-yellow wire (marked blue “C” in post #38) also going to earth ground. That matches the posted pictures.
But I find it curious that Dane never asked, or it never came up, precisely at which point the new “C” wire should be connected and how to do it. Do you need a new connector, etc.? Those are questions I would have had – but I don’t mess with this stuff much and Dane may be way ahead of me there.
Will the ecobee actually power up with just Rc and C connected? I wonder if it will refuse to power up if W1 isn’t also connected. You would think Rc and C would be enough but it seems to me the manual section for Troubleshooting Power-ON problems is vague.
#40
At the risk of being repetitive,,,, if there is 24vac on Rc and C at the stat... it should come on. It doesn't need any other wire connected.