Basics of new central A/C install
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Basics of new central A/C install
We are getting a 13 seer York affinity 2 tons installed next week, outside and inside. The guy has given us a verbal bid ($2825, before a $200 rebate), and I plan on asking him for a written one before they do the work.
The new unit is replacing a 12 year old 2 ton model with a rusted condensation pan. We opted to just upgrade the whole thing rather than pay $925 to replace just the pan and coil. (The furnace is hard to get to). The new unit uses R-410A.
I read something on this forum about needing bigger tubing, or flushing the old tubing when changing to the newer coolant or getting a new a/c?
Three questions:
1) Can someone explain to me this and other basic requirements for proper install that we should have included in the written bid?
2) Also, we only got one other bid, which was higher. Does anybody have an idea if this bid is out of line? I noticed recently that York does seem to be dropping some $$ on advertising this model, which makes me concerned the particular model gives them a bigger profit.
3) Probably a stupid question: We have a confined space and were worried a new coil would not fit on top of the old furnace (furnace is old but in decent shape). The salesman says that he found a coil that fits and the replacement coil will be "our coil," a York, and says (when I asked) that it matches the new unit. What does it mean to "match"? It sounds like we are gettting the same coil we had, only new, and which matched the old system. Thanks J
The new unit is replacing a 12 year old 2 ton model with a rusted condensation pan. We opted to just upgrade the whole thing rather than pay $925 to replace just the pan and coil. (The furnace is hard to get to). The new unit uses R-410A.
I read something on this forum about needing bigger tubing, or flushing the old tubing when changing to the newer coolant or getting a new a/c?
Three questions:
1) Can someone explain to me this and other basic requirements for proper install that we should have included in the written bid?
2) Also, we only got one other bid, which was higher. Does anybody have an idea if this bid is out of line? I noticed recently that York does seem to be dropping some $$ on advertising this model, which makes me concerned the particular model gives them a bigger profit.
3) Probably a stupid question: We have a confined space and were worried a new coil would not fit on top of the old furnace (furnace is old but in decent shape). The salesman says that he found a coil that fits and the replacement coil will be "our coil," a York, and says (when I asked) that it matches the new unit. What does it mean to "match"? It sounds like we are gettting the same coil we had, only new, and which matched the old system. Thanks J
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First dont do a thing till you have it on paper here for sure.
Try for 3 bids on the job. A unit that has a SEER of only 13 is the very bottom of any AC line today.
Yes the lines have to be cleaned out for sure if you go with the R410a. We try to stay away from the R410a to years later on .For now you can get R22 till the year 2030 so you see it will be here for a long time.
Yes you need a new coil for sure and it should match the condenser unit.
Dont know where you are but that price is very high to me. For just a replacement of outdoor unit and new coil. On your pad and electric
ED my .02 cents
Try for 3 bids on the job. A unit that has a SEER of only 13 is the very bottom of any AC line today.
Yes the lines have to be cleaned out for sure if you go with the R410a. We try to stay away from the R410a to years later on .For now you can get R22 till the year 2030 so you see it will be here for a long time.
Yes you need a new coil for sure and it should match the condenser unit.
Dont know where you are but that price is very high to me. For just a replacement of outdoor unit and new coil. On your pad and electric
ED my .02 cents

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few more questions
Thanks! I am getting another bid, both for an air conditioner, only, and for a whole new system--air conditioner and furnace.
Can you answer a few more questions? The new bidder says the he does not recommend getting an air conditioner only. The furnace is upright in a restricted space in the attic, and the plenum slopes with the roofline, somewhat restricting the air flow. A new furnace could be installed on its side without this problem.
Also, we told him we don't know how long we will be in the house. He suggested a 2 stage 80% furnace, to save money. We don't want to spend a lot, but don't want junk, either. Although, cooling the attic is more of an issue than heating. So,
1) Is the advice about the new furnace because of restricted air flow reasonable?
2) On the two-stage furnace, is a two-stage blower the same as a variable blower? We have heard these are quieter. The air conditioning and furnace now are very noisy on the inside. Is an 80% furnace a bad idea with all the better models?
3) If we go with the newer coolant (for environmental reasons), he wants to replace the lines, rather than flush them. He says that is what the manufacturer (York) recommends to do. Flushing them with a solvent is only a last resort. He says he does not have anough assurances that the solvent will not damage the lines or equipment and won't do the job otherwise. Does this sound right?
Thanks! Jkm
Can you answer a few more questions? The new bidder says the he does not recommend getting an air conditioner only. The furnace is upright in a restricted space in the attic, and the plenum slopes with the roofline, somewhat restricting the air flow. A new furnace could be installed on its side without this problem.
Also, we told him we don't know how long we will be in the house. He suggested a 2 stage 80% furnace, to save money. We don't want to spend a lot, but don't want junk, either. Although, cooling the attic is more of an issue than heating. So,
1) Is the advice about the new furnace because of restricted air flow reasonable?
2) On the two-stage furnace, is a two-stage blower the same as a variable blower? We have heard these are quieter. The air conditioning and furnace now are very noisy on the inside. Is an 80% furnace a bad idea with all the better models?
3) If we go with the newer coolant (for environmental reasons), he wants to replace the lines, rather than flush them. He says that is what the manufacturer (York) recommends to do. Flushing them with a solvent is only a last resort. He says he does not have anough assurances that the solvent will not damage the lines or equipment and won't do the job otherwise. Does this sound right?
Thanks! Jkm