GE ECM Programmable Motor

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  #81  
Old 06-05-10, 09:17 PM
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Thermister

Fan-current limiter-SG-349 for Bryant 90I plus multi fuel heat-pump/gas/electric

Found one at ********* (1 ohm 30amp) part #570-101059-ND Current Limiter inrush (Thermister) for $2.64 each (ordered a couple) overnite $21 shipping, $26.28 total. 1hr to remove and replace fan, 15 minutes to R&R thermister. Worked perfectly.

Two local companies qouted $856, and $865.

DIY Thermistor repair info was a real life/money saver.

Zog
 

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  #82  
Old 06-06-10, 06:52 AM
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Different failure location an ECM circuit board

I have a 3/4 hp GE ECM motor with a fried solder joint under the 5-pin power connector. (Does not appear to be a thermistor failure, although the damaged solder joint is on a trace to the thermistor. I am ordering a thermistor just in case.) It is in a Trane A/C air handler Model Number TWE040E130A0. Found this thread when I was checking the $1000+ estimate from my contractor for replacing the fan motor. Thanks to posts by iteration69 and others, I pulled the circuit boards out of the ECM motor to take a look. Found a burnt connection under the 5-pin power connector, soldered in a jumper where part of the pin had vaporized, and the motor is now running normally. I'm hoping it was just a bad connection that finally got too hot. Has held for almost 24 hours now. Thanks to all. Beer 4U2
 
  #83  
Old 06-07-10, 12:54 PM
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According to the manufacturer RIT Electronics the SG348 thermistor is a 1 ohm 16 amp in rush thermistor and the SG379 thermistor is a 1 ohm 30 amp in rush thermistor. Thanks to the info provided in this thread I was able to save big $$ fixing my GE ECM control board on the end of my blower motor. I also installed a ECM protector from Zebra Instruments which also has an ecm repair kit which has the thermistor that they say works for all the motors so it must be the 30 amp one.
 

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  #84  
Old 06-10-10, 05:37 AM
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Thumbs up

Originally Posted by gbs2320 View Post
According to the manufacturer RIT Electronics the SG348 thermistor is a 1 ohm 16 amp in rush thermistor and the SG379 thermistor is a 1 ohm 30 amp in rush thermistor. Thanks to the info provided in this thread I was able to save big $$ fixing my GE ECM control board on the end of my blower motor. I also installed a ECM protector from Zebra Instruments which also has an ecm repair kit which has the thermistor that they say works for all the motors so it must be the 30 amp one.
Update:
Correction the manufacturer is RTI Electronics rtie.com. It has been 5 days since my replacement of the thermistor and everything has worked great since then. Enjoying the AC and saved $$. Thanks to all who provided info on this thread especially the HVAC techs! Beer 4U2 Greg
 
  #85  
Old 06-19-10, 11:27 PM
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thermistor bypass?

Ok i have took my motor control off and found the damaged SG379 thermistor burn spots and all...i have ordered 2 so i have an extra...ok the question

I have read that some guys have jumpered or bypassed the thermistor as a temporary fix. what are the chances of damaging the motor or other parts by doing this until my new thermistor gets here in 3 days i hope...wife is hot and does not understand that this is not a part i can find local....lol

Thx for the help
 
  #86  
Old 06-24-10, 03:05 PM
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need SG348

I have module from 1/2 HP motor with burned out termisitor SG348 . Can you please let me know where to order one from.I tried my local electronic stores in Ontario, Canada but they tell me I would have to wait at least one month before they can get it.
Thanks
 
  #87  
Old 06-25-10, 04:31 AM
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A Different "Failure" Mode

I have carefully read this entire thread and found a lot of information in it that was useful, but not exactly like my problem. I will first list my system "components" and then list a fairly detailed description of the problem that I am having. I apologize in advance for the long post, but wanted to give you as much information as I have. I plan to do some more trouble shooting later today -- if I obtain more information, I will add it to my thread.

THE SYSTEM

Ground Source Heat Pump UNIT
Trane -- Command Aire GSSD Split System Water Sorce Heat Pump
Model GSSD42 41,000 BTUH Cooling, 30,200 BTUH Heating
Full Model No. GSSD04210C001206
Serial No. W97C08953

Air Handler UNIT
Convertible Variable Speed 2 ˝ -- 5 Ton
Model No. TWE040E13FA1
Serial No. SL494PH21V
Utilizes GE ECM Fan Motor (ľ HP)
Model No. 5SME39HL0012
(similar to GE ECM by REGAl-BELOIT 2.3 Series)
Serial No. 000XII
Date of Mfg. 11/15/96

Zone Controller (2 Zones)
Zonex DIGI3U

Thermostats
Honeywell TH6220D (Main House [Hall])
Honeywell TH6110D (Master Bedroom)



THE SYMPTOMS

The fan motor does not start reliably. When it does not start, the ZONEX Low Air Temperature Cutout turns off the compressor (as it is designed to do). When the zone controller calls for the fan to start, it erratically oscillates back and forth, stops, reverses, tries again several times and eventually it accelerate to speed – if it starts! There is no apparent repeatable sequence of the various starts, stops, reverses etc. from one time to the next. I would estimate that the fan completely fails to start approximately 2 – 5% of the time. I have visually checked the ECM motor module boards and there is no appearance of a component failure/overheating. When I checked the connectors, I found one of the sockets on the 16 pin connector to be slightly corroded and cleaned it up before reassembling the unit. I did not carefully record which pin it was, but from memory, I believe it was pin 3, 4, 11 or 12 [This was before I had read the thread and found an identification of the pin-out. I plan to go back into the unit and recheck it again today or tomorrow]. I may also check the resistance and/or connect a temporary jumper across that connection point to convince myself that it is not the problem. The only other clue that I have is that the green LED on the air handler (labeled CFM) is very dim during the time the ECM motor is trying to start and then blinks slowly when the fan finally gets up to speed. I have very limited documentation on the ECM motor and controller – most of which was gleaned from the internet – including this thread.

I should also state that the HVAC sub-contractor who installed my system during my house construction has since gone out of business and I have been having trouble finding someone who is willing to untertake the repairs (apparently, the geothermal aspect of the system makes them reluctant to take it on).

I am currently running the fan on continuous operation (via the thermostat fan switches), and it seems to be working fine for the past three days. It is currently very warm here in NC and I don't want to take the AC out of service for very long. Can anyone give me some idea of what I have here and where to look next?
 
  #88  
Old 06-26-10, 02:36 AM
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John B.

The CFM led will blink / flicker randomly when the motor is starting up. Once it is up to speed you should see a fairly steady flicker. (The variable speed controllers use BK/PWM and the sense lines to adjust the controller between programmed points)

If an IGBT or support driver is failing the motor tends to fail the majority of the time. The motor blower wheel will move one direction about 1.5 inches, then move reverse the same amount. This process will repeat. Some modules seem to have goofy parameters programmed into them. These "goofy" modules as i call them tend to rock the wheel back and forth several times until they actually start making the motor spin. I've seen this on brand new, out of the box equipment.

Have a look around here:
Pictures by iteration69 - Photobucket

DO NOT ATTEMPT TO CONTACT ME VIA THIS MESSAGE BOARD EMAIL.

To all those who have tried, I'm sorry, I do not check the board's email very often. You may contact me at
[email protected]

replace nospam with gmail
 
  #89  
Old 07-03-10, 05:12 AM
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My motor is now repaired

Yesterday was rainy and fairly cool and so I “bit the bullet” and dug into the air handler again. I again pulled the motor control module and the connecting cable. I checked the 3 phases of the blower motor and they all checked out uniformly at 10 ohms, with no leakage to ground. I then disassembled the module to take some photos and to check out some resistances. When I checked the resistance of the one connector “pin” that appeared corroded, the wire fell off in my hand. After some additional inspections, I repaired the part and reassembled. it. Since I have no tool to repair the connector, I soldered a bypass wire onto the board at the foot of the connector and ran it outside the module with a “spade” connector from it to the end of the broken wire. As an aside, none of my boards are potted -- they just have a conformal coating on them which makes visual inspection a whole lot easier. It now appears to be working correctly. Many thanks to all of you who have contributed to this thread -- without this information, I would have most likely not taken on this task.
 
  #90  
Old 07-04-10, 01:37 AM
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Wow, what a great motor huh lol. I have a goodman gpg gas heat P/U. I am a tech myself thankfully i just wanted to share this bit on the motor itself. I got off work one evening about a month ago walk inside and i here a wining sound i thought wow just my luck it was coming from the return. I turned around and went right to the unit sure enough it was the programmable ge indoor blower motor!! I pulled it gonna just throw a universal on it till i got the new one in but then i seen it was a programmable, thought to myself why on a 13 seer. anyway i took motor apart the stator has 3 120 degree magnets which cover the 360 degrees of the stator. One of the mags had come off the stator and was rubbing on the windings, the only thing i had was gorilla glue knowing it would not hold i did it any way. The mag is oppisite polarity of both the windings and the stator. I let glue dry reinstalled motor and after 20 minutes of running is started hearing it again, not running up to speed but still cooling i let it bumb. Got to work the next morning got in contact with goodman a week later i got the motor and it was the wrong one wow right!? the one they sent me took a male plug and the motor i had, had 1/4in male terminals no way to make it work. The one i needed was on backorder. So after goodman knowing my unit was under warranty and the motor being on "backorder" for two weeks the motor got worse and 2 mags cam off stator this time i got an apoxy that i knew would work redone my first mag and got the second one back on and it ran without the grinding sound but slow as christmas evap coil would barely frost but never freeze up thankfully. Finally got the right motor in hope the goodman blows up soon where i can just put a LENNOX on it and be done with it!Sorry i rambled on if anyone reads this but i have had the problems that everyone in this thread is talking with the GE PROGRAMMABLE MOTOR and have mainly seen them on gas package units and gas furnaces of many brands but the companies should recall all the motors and replace it with just a regular dang motor. My opinion A.O smith motor in an hvac application is the way to go inside and out. Thanks everybody
 
  #91  
Old 07-04-10, 02:46 PM
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Thermistor Jumper on ECM Module

I did not see any replies on the question of Jumpering the Thermistor while waiting for a new replacement. Will this hurt the motor or other devices if you remove the burner thermistor and solder a temporary jumper? Since it is a "surge supressor" will the surge hurt ECM components or will the motor take it?

Joe
 
  #92  
Old 07-04-10, 05:21 PM
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The motor will probably take it but the components of the ecm most likely will not. It would most likely be harmed at start up because thats when the motor will pull the most amps and the electronics are not designed to take spikes of fluctuation in voltage and amperage. Go to radio shack and get a thermistor of the same value or get whats called a ''snubber'' same principle just primarily used on welders or things that pull lots of current and lots at one time the snubber protects the control relays and circuits.
 
  #93  
Old 07-04-10, 08:06 PM
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servojo,

If you jump the thermistor there is a good chance of blowing a circuit trace to the filter caps. The problem is that when the caps are dead they appear as a dead short on first power up. This momentary dead short condition can burn the copper foil off the board, damage the rectifier, and in the event something fries, create a large electromagnetic discharge pulse (which can easily damage the CMOS circuits in the controller)

To complicate things the chances of failure are directly related to position of the power wave when the switch is turned on. There is not near as much electrical stress on the power supply if the wave is at zero volts when powered up as opposed to the wave being peak.

It would be much safer to use a high wattage ballast resistor.
 
  #94  
Old 07-07-10, 06:31 AM
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An "Engineering Comment"

This will be my last post on this thread -- until something fails again!!! From the perspective of a retired electrical engineer designer, all that I can say is that any design that requires SIXTEEN (16) leads to control a motor is a PRETTY CRUMMY DESIGN.
 
  #95  
Old 07-07-10, 09:43 AM
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John B.

You got a chuckle out of me! I'm not arguing that it is dumb to use so many connections, to be more honest it's stupid.

I'd like to point out that the ASHRAE are the perpetuators of crummy designs. Just for a moment consider a split system heat pump with staged fossil fuel and backup resistive heat. The amount of wires required can be as many as 8, and that is only counting the thermostat. I've complained about the redundancies of parallel wiring since my first exposure over 18 years ago. Since then I've built my own HVAC controllers that only need 2 wires to work. Those 2 wires power the controller and convey the data. I've contacted several companies with hopes of fixing things (Honeywell and ICM to name the big guys). No one was interested. So i figure in about 50 years some brilliant engineer will get the spot light for fixing it all using 2 wires.

I'm looking for fried ECM modules to be donated to better the DIY community's info-base.
 
  #96  
Old 07-11-10, 06:27 PM
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its great when people of different backgrounds can exchange info
I am an hvac tech and would have to pay the big bucks to replace my module if it goes out and am capable of replacing a burnt thermistor but as previously said we are not given info to repair to component level. I think liability issues have a lot to do with it and if you saw what some techs do you wouldn't want them to. just a few notes
1 programing is by equip manufacture. ie lennox trane carrier
do not share info.
2 these motors are designed to run in a range of static
pressure. .7wc max
3 I have been told by oem engineers high failures are due to
excessive static pressure.
4 Also moisture from overflow condensate can cause
problems
5 replacing the motor module may be treating the symptom

6 early modules had smaller sized thermistors and higher
failures

Thanks to those who posted the specs I ordered some thermistors and will have that option available
 
  #97  
Old 07-17-10, 08:35 PM
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smallac,

There is nothing special about the thermistor used in the GE ECM motors. To put it another more accurate way the thermistors are NOT proprietary parts specific to GE ECM. You can find the exact part used in the motors at numerous electronic distributors. Infact, they don't even use the same manufacturer for all the thermistors on all modules. Go back and read every post on this thread and you will find all the information you need.

Even the parts sealed in the controller are /off the shelf/ components. The difference being that GE had custom part numbers etched into two of the chips to throw off those who would rather not decap and inspect the silicon die.

I've tore these modules down to the silicon wafer and know for a fact all the parts are off the shelf components.

I'm still looking for and having little luck finding fried modules. I've come up with a few ways to diagnose the controller from power supply but really need some fried modules to verify the test procedure. Once this is done i plan to write up a DIY in PDF which will go well beyond the "swap a thermistor" paradigm.
 
  #98  
Old 07-27-10, 04:38 AM
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I have a GE ECM motor that needs new bearings, it runs but it is very noisy and i can feel the bearings when turning it by hand, the motor # is: 5SME39SL0253. I found a motor P/N 5SME39SL0324 that looks the same as mine for $280
Has any one taken the motor apart? can i swap the bearing s form the new motor ends on to my motor? or better yet, can the bearing be purchased separately somewhere?
 
  #99  
Old 07-27-10, 08:25 AM
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I disassembled the motor and found that it has standard seal ball bearings P/N NTN 6203LL12.7 TRI-STATE BEARING Indianapolis IN (no relation) $12.79 each.
Installed new bearings and it went from GRRRRRRRRRR to SHHHHHHHHH
 
  #100  
Old 07-28-10, 05:48 PM
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can too buy just the modules

just wanted to let ya all know that you can buy just the module for ecm motors tho most everyone tells you that you can't. took me day and a half to find one...cost was $350- much less that the $900+ i was quoted for new motor or the $1200 to get new one installed. if you are in phoenix try mike at arts parts on bell & 15th ave. i also ordered the thermistors mentioned earlier and they are exactly what is in the new module. thank you all for all the great help!
 
  #101  
Old 07-31-10, 08:59 PM
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I've made a controller diagnosis procedure. You can download the PDF here.
http://www.shol.com/shadow_tech/ecm-...-diagnosis.pdf

Please download and pass along.


Special thanks to Dan and Christina for donating a bad module.
 
  #102  
Old 08-07-10, 08:55 AM
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ECM 2.3 3/4 HP Motor with issues.

My ECM motor seems to rock back and forth like many others on this forum, but if I start it spinning and turn the unit on it will run. Here's the kicker. The motor will actually run, change speeds and otherwise funtion properly as long as it stays running. (Fan switch to on not auto.) Its acting just like a standard AC motor with a bad run cap. I've taken the ECM off and there is no apparent damage.

Any help anyone can give would be appriciated.
 
  #103  
Old 08-08-10, 05:37 PM
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ROUS,

Sounds like your module has weak IGBT(s) or the eeprom is damaged.

There is a slight chance the motor connector is lose, check that before diving in too deep.

If that isnt it try the diagnosis procedures i listed earlier. If you have a different module let me know and i'll update the procedure to include your module type.

Steve
 
  #104  
Old 08-27-10, 10:51 AM
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GE may be learning after reading most of these post I could not stand it. I removed my ECM from a 1/2 hp fan motor in my 3 ton AC and I found an Ametherm thermistor SL221R020 on the board. This unit has been in service for 3 years.

I just replaced a motor & ECM under warranty in 5 ton AC. I will pull that ECM soon. I will be replacing the GE part with Ametherm thermistor SL221R030. That is a 1 hp motor.
 

Last edited by Vrmax; 08-27-10 at 11:57 AM.
  #105  
Old 09-06-10, 06:26 AM
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Trane ecm/module problem

I also have issues with what I think is the module. When I checked the fan operation it was moving very slowly.I can stop it with my finger.Then it will run again but very slowly. I removed the housing and inspected the module board, no obvious signs of a burned component. I hate to go through the trouble of replacing a component to find out it was not the problem. Is there a troubleshooting guide to determine the source of the problem before repairing/replacing the part. Thanks for any help.
 
  #106  
Old 09-07-10, 11:43 AM
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Trane ecm/module problem

Well had a A/C tech come out today to check variable speed fan and with the help of his meter/device was still unable to trace the cause of the problem(motor,module,circuit board that controls fan). I have two identical units so worse comes to worse I can swap parts out until I find the problem.Don't want to do that if I can help it. Weird thing is Monday I removed both fans to clean and when I replaced the faulty one it worked for about 2 hours fine. My wife came out to tell me it stopped working again.Oh well.What would be the logic behind not working and then working after I removed/reinstalled it? Did disconnecting and reconnecting power reset something and if so why did it fail again. Like I sad before when I first checked out the unit, it was running very slowly, to the point I could stop it with my finger and then it would resume.Thanks for any guidance.
 
  #107  
Old 09-08-10, 12:41 AM
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heydude348,

Any qualified HVAC/R technician should have been able to isolate the problem. I suggest that you consider another company / technician next time.

Working on the very limited information you provided i suspect that the problem is a lose connection. By (re)moving the fan you most likely jostled the lose connection. The lose connection is probably on the ECM module, either the 5 pin power connector or the 16 pin control connector. I'd check the 16pin connection first. On rare occasions the 16 pin control cable is actually bad.

Reseat everything you had worked on. If that does not work try pulling the 16pin control cable partially out. Just enough so that it barely latches(not dangling lose!). Sometimes the interconnections experience a phenomenon known as electrical fretting. By way of partial connection the circuit establishes a new mechanical interconnect.(This is why we partially connect). If this seems to solve your problem then clean up the PCB mount terminals and 16 pin control cable( or buy a new control cable)

Here is a defective ECM module driving a blower assembly.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5MIgb_2LwH4
It may be difficult to see but the blower wheel spins very slowly, then it stops, reverses a few inches and some times rocks back and forth.
Good luck,
Steve
 

Last edited by iteration69; 09-08-10 at 12:49 AM. Reason: added link to video
  #108  
Old 10-02-10, 03:11 PM
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Sooooo how DO you reprogram the ECM module? (waiting with baited breath!!!)
 
  #109  
Old 10-11-10, 04:27 AM
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In response to Notorious ROUS [and others with similar problems], I have had similar intermittent start problems that I have subsequently fixed. One thing that I have found -- at least on my module -- is that when the air handler is excessively damp, the motor "start" process is erratic. Be sure to check for a clogged (or partially clogged) condensate drain from the pan below the A-coil. I found that in my case the condensate drain was plugged and the overflow drain was operative -- therefore leaving standing water in the drain pan. After I fixed that, I also used a heat gun (on Low) to slightly heat the individual boards on the module and to drive off the moisture [a hair dryer would have worked also].

John B.
 
  #110  
Old 11-11-10, 12:32 PM
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Angry accident!

During soldering I accidentally soldered small dot (see picture - before soldering) with one side of varistor. Is it a problem or it is ok - this area on my board is all black, so I don't know what is under it.




Link to photo: Picasa Web Albums - Andrzej Buczynski
Thank you for any help.
Andrew
 
  #111  
Old 11-12-10, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by and0b View Post
During soldering I accidentally soldered small dot (see picture - before soldering) with one side of varistor. Is it a problem or it is ok - this area on my board is all black, so I don't know what is under it.




Link to photo: Picasa Web Albums - Andrzej Buczynski
Thank you for any help.
Andrew

Please remove this and my previous posts!

Thank you!
 
  #112  
Old 11-18-10, 07:55 PM
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can't open the case

ok - so I can't open the case of my motor. the case that encloses the electronics is aluminum and doesn't appear to have any screws/nuts that can be removed to open it up???

I need this fixed -- does anyone know where i can just buy a new motor?? I can't find them anywhere.

mine is 5SME39SL0731 3/4 HP.
 
  #113  
Old 11-18-10, 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by sky jumper View Post
ok - so I can't open the case of my motor. the case that encloses the electronics is aluminum and doesn't appear to have any screws/nuts that can be removed to open it up???

I need this fixed -- does anyone know where i can just buy a new motor?? I can't find them anywhere.

mine is 5SME39SL0731 3/4 HP.

I figured out how to disassemble the case. but I didn't find any bad electronic parts. where to get a new motor?
 
  #114  
Old 11-20-10, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by sky jumper View Post
I figured out how to disassemble the case. but I didn't find any bad electronic parts. where to get a new motor?
well, to anyone following thread -- here's what i've learned after spending 3 days trying to get a replacement ECM module or whole motor for a nordyne (frigidaire) unit --- don't bother!!

first - you will not be able to get one for at least a week. nobody stocks them. even the nordyne distributors have to special order them.

second - the $2 thermistor fix is the real deal! get it from newark. I live a few blocks from their wharehouse.

third - you can wire up a regular 115VAC fixed speed motor that will work just fine while you fix the ECM.

4th - i'm going to buy about 1,000 thermistors and open up shop fixing these things around chicagoland. $200 per repair.

THANK YOU to all who have contributed to this invaluable thread!
 
  #115  
Old 11-22-10, 06:23 PM
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For those needing an ECM module, let me recommend comfortgurus.com. They Jesse) researched and helped me find the correct ECM module to attach to the motor. Quick shipping available so the system is not down for long.

Question for the group. I am replacing the ECM module. I had to disconnect the two main power leads (one red the other black) to the connection block in the air handler. This connection block has multiple red wires coming out of one side and and multiple black wires coming out the other side. Does if matter if the main red wire has to connect to the multiple red wires and the main black wire to the multiple black wires? It makes sense from an order perspective, but not clear if its required from an electrical perspective (AC inputs with a separate ground wire). I forgot to photograph the connections before I disconnected the main wires and don't want to screw it up. Thanks.
 
  #116  
Old 11-29-10, 10:01 AM
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blower dies after cycle or two in high heat, resets to low heat

Is this a motor control module problem? The blower works fine in low heat and will transition into high heat. It will do a cycle or two in high heat, but then when it tries the next cycle of high heat, it fires up fine, the blower comes on for maybe 30 sec, then it dies and code 41 displays (blower failed to reach 250 rpm or blower failed to communicate to variable speed furnace control). It resets and comes back on in low heat, beginning the process all over again (and making for a very long time to reach the set temp). Does the fact that the blower motor runs fine for some heat cycles rule out the thermistor problem? Could some other component(s) be failing as the module heats up while powered on in high heat (have never experienced the problem while in low heat)?

Here's what I have: Bryant 355MAV furnace (installed 1997), motor p/n HD44AE116 (1/2 HP), controller p/n RMOD44AE116. I have never had to replace the blower motor or the control module.

Thanks for all the previous info on the GE Motor and for your help with this question.
 
  #117  
Old 12-08-10, 10:02 AM
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Replacement Type

I am having difficulty finding a replacement controller for my Amana PHD48C02E and I am wondering if I can replace the entire motor and module to one with similar specs.
The original motor is a GE 5SME39SL0625 and the module is DG02 016PTF. This is a 3/4hp unit 1050RPM CCW. If I find a similar 3/4hp that runs at or near 1050, I should be good correct? The pin-outs seem to be the same for this class motor.
I have been searching for an exact replacement all day and have decided this to be the best forum on this subject. Any help is greatly appreciated.
It seems that surpluscityliquidators.com has something that would be close enough for the best price. If this would work I am willing to try it. https://surpluscityliquidators.com/view_product/150818/
 
  #118  
Old 12-14-10, 04:55 PM
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Need high speed fan in GE ECM Motor in Goodman Air Handler

I have the GE 5SME39SL0610 fan assembly in my Goodman AEPF42601BA air handler. It is still working well after over 4 years, but I am stymied on how to run the fan in high speed when NOT cooling or heating. It has the "energy saver" function of 30% speed when fan in ON position, but I now use a wood heater and need to move the air around the house with the fan in high. In this case the energy saver is not letting me save energy with the wood stove heating the house. Help please.
 
  #119  
Old 12-14-10, 10:31 PM
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Too many unknowns about your particular system to give a detailed answer. What you need to do is to have a switch that will disconnect the thermostat from the Y terminal on the furnace board and connect R and Y together on the furnace board.

If you have cooling then you will have a wire from the outside (condensing) unit that also connects to Y on the furnace board. If you have two-stage cooling there will be a Y and a Y2 terminal. Y2 is normally a faster blower speed BUT if you have only a single-stage cooling system then there are switches or jumpers on the furnace board that may control the speeds.

Post back with ALL the low-voltage terminals present on the furnace board AND if you have a cooling system and if you have cooling whether it is a single-stage or two-stage system.
 
  #120  
Old 12-15-10, 06:34 PM
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can anyone tell me ???

can anyone tell me ???
how I can wire a G.E. 5sme39hl0012 ecm motor
so I can use it as a fan in my garage ????
there are 2 wiring harnesses coming from the motor.
one has 3 wires red,black and green
the other has 14 white wires 1 blue wire and an orange wire
any help would be greatly appreciated
thanks in advance
happy holidays
 
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