GE ECM Programmable Motor

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  #121  
Old 12-29-10, 11:10 AM
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Reply for use2be

I do not know if it can help you, but once I wanted to run my variable speed Lennox G61 furnace (GE ECM 2.3 1HP 5SME39SL) at max speed without heat, nor cooling; so I set the thermostat to cooling, switch the breaker for the outdoor A/C in the electric panel to OFF and voila! The furnace blower was working at full speed for as long as I wanted.
 
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  #122  
Old 12-29-10, 11:29 AM
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Reply to vinster888

As I wrote earlier today in another tread, since the last 4 digits of the model number do not match yours, it is almost guaranteed that the motor you are thinking to buy will not perform at the same speed than the one you have. The last 4 digits, in your case, 0625, represents the particular programmation of your ECM. The one at the link you provided is a 0674 and therefore was programmed for another application and consequently, the rotational speed is likley different and that could cause big problems depending on the application and rotational speed difference.
 
  #123  
Old 01-16-11, 03:25 AM
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EEPROM Data

I have no way to match any part numbering up with this data, but here it is:

eeprom #1
0000 32FF62FF 00005FFF 3D006500 19FF3DFF
0008 21FF3DFF 57FF37FF 55003800 62FF0000
0010 000040FF 4BFF00FF 00FF0000 00006EFF
0018 7D002500 00004900 09FF7D00 00001C00
0020 140062FF 00004DFF 2F0043FF 19FF1800
0028 77001800 57FF2300 41FF6EFF 62FF6800
0030 4B0008FF 7BFF0800 00FF4B00 57FF6000
0038 56FF1BFF 000008FF 00000100 08FF6600

eeprom#2
0000 C985FDFD 0000F487 097A367A 5757856D
0008 244D856D FFFF5757 AAAA731A FDFD0000
0010 0500FD81 57979B01 6601FA00 57007CDD
0018 6C962B4A FF00D98E 240F3B96 FD00001C
0020 DF0602FD 000000C3 023EDEF9 0A5799F0
0028 EEEE99F0 01FF2078 2285E4B9 02FD60D0
0030 405E3B11 CC4E8110 8101405E 00AF8D9E
0038 412341D0 00003B11 0000418C 00110773

eeprom#3
0000 C841FDFD 0000F437 09CA37BE 575741FF
0008 244D41FF FFFF5757 AAAA731A FDFD0000
0010 0400FD81 97979B01 6601FB00 5700BCDD
0018 FD822B4A FF00D98E 240FAA82 FD000000
0020 BF06FDFD 0000FFC3 023E40F9 57577990
0028 EEEE7990 FFFFDF78 2285B9B9 FDFD60D0
0030 4AB93B11 B9AA8110 81014AB9 00AF2680
0038 51239F2A 00003B11 0000518C 00113E1A

These are eeproms i pulled long ago from working systems. If anyone wants to donate any modules please contact me.

Note the far left column is the address of the data.

If i ever get some time i plan to document how this data works and how to tweak it to add features. Since I'm pretty busy and see no time in the near future i thought I'd share at least this much.

Good luck,
Steve
---edit----
eeproms do become corrupt, when this happens they simply need reprogrammed. You can use this data to repair a corrupt eeprom provided you have the tools. If you have a bad module you can copy the eeprom data from module to another and restore your OEM fan parameters in a module that does not match up.

Suppose you have a 3/4 HP CCW module and a high efficiency condensing heater, your module is dead. You can find a cheaper module from surplus site, but it's numbers are not the same. All that matters is that it is infact a GE ECM module, and that the HP ratings are the same between both modules. The module may even been rated as CW, this does not matter.

Assuming you checked your eeprom first to make sure it's ok, you can simply reprogram the new module with the old module's eeprom data. The new module will function EXACTLY as the old module did. I have done this in the past with no problems.

Just remember the golden rules
  • The HP rating MUST be the same on both modules
  • The original eeprom must function properly
 

Last edited by iteration69; 01-16-11 at 03:56 AM. Reason: informative
  #124  
Old 01-21-11, 08:56 PM
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Have a Ducane gas furnace with the GE ECM 2.3 variable speed motor. Long story short, with the help of these sites, found a burned suppressor. Jumpered it out to get it going for the time being (middle of winter) and it worked ok. New parts came in and tore it back down to replace it. Now it doesn't work. When I power up the system by closing the tamper switch, everything on the furnace control board comes on and a relay clicks (thermostat in manual fan on mode), but the fan doesn't turn...until I open the tamper switch and power everything down. The the fan starts up and spins for a few seconds. Not sure if the problem is still in the fan motor control module or the furnace board but all appropriate LEDs come on. Middle of winter (much more bearable in the summer) and I am thoroughly disgusted. Anyone ever run into something like this?

Have a gas wall furnace that hasn't been used in about 7 or 8 years. Spent last two hours cleaning it up and removing several birds nests from the outside vent (sent two very unhappy birds away). Have at least minimal heat for now. Also have a wheel bearing or CV joint going on my car, but that's a different story. At least there is no electronics in that problem. And I was an EE long long ago in a galaxy far far away.

I can be reached at ************if anyone has a good suggestion.
 

Last edited by Shadeladie; 01-26-11 at 01:37 PM. Reason: Email not allowed
  #125  
Old 01-22-11, 05:44 PM
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Update. Got it working. Who says a degree in EE makes one immune to stupidity. Just because the fancy electronic thermostat on the wall says the furnace is in Fan Only On, doesn't mean it's really calling for the fan to start. Once I figured this out this morning, after a long cold night, went back and tried to bump the motor again, by jumpering the thermostat fan terminals on the furnace board and the motor turned. Put it back together quickly (didn't care for the 53 F in the house). Will need to go back on some warmer, weekday to reinstall the new surge suppressor, which I took out thinking something was with it or somewhere else in the ECM control module. NOTE to GE, Regal Beloit, and Ducane. If it is this hard to track down replacement parts, my next furnace will not include anything from yinz.
 
  #126  
Old 06-24-11, 03:51 PM
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GE ECM 2.3 A/C Blower Fan Motor Not Working?

Thought this thread would be most appropriate for my questions...

A few weeks ago, my home A/C stopped working. I removed the panel from the vertical unit in the garage to see that the system was iced over. I let the ice thaw, but now the blower fan won't come on. It is a 6-year-old Carrier unit with a GE ECM 2.3 variable speed motor—3/4 Hp 120/240V. The air filter is clean, the breakers have been turned off and back on, and there is no water in the PVC pipe where the safety switch is located.

I called some HVAC techs to come out who noted the following findings—the thermostat is, indeed, calling for cooling; there is proper voltage coming in that should start the blower fan rotating; the system is not low on refrigerant; and the blower seems to have a lot of tension when trying to spin it manually (by hand). Consequently, they have diagnosed it as a broken motor and they want to replace the motor, module, and board for $1300.

My questions—is this the only plausible explanation? If not, what else could be the problem? If this is the only possible problem, do I have any other options for repairing?

Thank you for the assistance!
 
  #127  
Old 06-24-11, 05:00 PM
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the proper diagnosis would be either the motor, the endbell module, or the board, NOT all 3 unless they have been updated and come as a kit from Carrier. $1300 sounds very cheap for all 3. One other option for repairing would be to put a 3/4 hp 1075 rpm PSC motor in and not have the control that you once had over speed of the blower (not a great option).
 
  #128  
Old 06-24-11, 05:32 PM
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Thank you so much for the quick reply. This is all new to me, as this is my first home--just closed on it about 6 months ago and already the A/C broke! Can't believe it--the house is just about 6 years old and it had been abandoned (due to foreclosure) for over a year, so I have no information from the previous owners about maintenance matters.

Would this be something that I have any chance of diagnosing on my own (i.e., among the three components)? I have never disassembled any sort of motorized device, but I am somewhat handy and I am not afraid to research and learn. If this is, in general, the kind of investigation that clearly requires an expert, should I ask the techs to come back? Do you happen to have a guess as to why they would have assumed that all three components needed to be replaced instead of attempting to diagnose the issue in more detail? I don't have $1300, so I may have to opt for trying something on my own (unless, of course, that has a high chance of resulting in breaking things worth more than $1300).

Thanks, again for your help!
 
  #129  
Old 06-24-11, 05:45 PM
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If they are going to replace the motor, control module and control board then there is nothing that you can do that will make it any worse.

I would suggest that you thoroughly read this entire thread and then decide if you want to tackle the project. Worst case scenario is that you will call the company back to replace all three components. My guess is that it is the control module on the end bell of the motor that is the problem but that problem could have caused additional problems with the control board and ultimately the motor.
 
  #130  
Old 06-24-11, 06:03 PM
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Hi Furd,

Thanks so much for the feedback. I read all the messages in the thread last week, gained some confidence, explored my A/C unit, researched some more, started searching online auction sites for replacement motors, began to chicken out, and then called the techs to come out and look at my A/C unit yesterday. I admit that I have quite a bit of apprehension about tackling such a project, but the $1300 sure compels me to try. :O)

Is it typical that this type of motor would break within 6 years of installation? I guess if it is under warranty for only 5 years, then the answer is most likely, "yes." Are there other motors that would last longer?

Teresa
 
  #131  
Old 06-24-11, 06:38 PM
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Hi, Teresa.

Most of what I know about these motors I learned from this thread. I have this type of motor on my furnace that was installed in April of 2006 and it's still going just fine. (It'll probably crap out now.) I do have a fair amount of mechanical and electrical experience though and I wouldn't be afraid of tackling the job of trying to repair it. As I wrote, you can't make it any worse.

You could replace it with the old standard four-speed motor that has been in use for a half-century but I don't off hand know how it would interconnect with the main control board. It would also be a step backwards in comfort and could void the warranty on the heat exchanger of the furnace.
 
  #132  
Old 06-24-11, 08:15 PM
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I haven't read the entire thread, but have a few questions. Are these all furnace blower motors , any condenser fan motors with the GE ECM motors? Is this entirely a GE problem, any other manufacturers having problems? The only conclusion I have is to stay away from furnaces with variable speed blower motors. If I remember correctly, the higher SEER A-C systems and higher efficiency furnaces achieve these greater efficiencies through variable speed components. I'll be faced with replacing a furnace and A-C unit in the not-to-distant future and may decide to not buy a unit higher than a 14 SEER.
 
  #133  
Old 07-11-11, 01:25 PM
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Just ordered a thermister from Digi-key. My heatpump fan went out yesterday. Thanks to a great website, I won't be spending $600 for a new variable speed motor!
 
  #134  
Old 07-16-11, 07:07 PM
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Thumbs up Awesome

Found this thread after getting angry that my 6 year old (1 year out of warranty) high efficiency furnace blower was bad and it was going to cost $1100 or so to fix it. I pulled my blower and ECM and sure enough had a blown thermistor. Everything else inside looked brand spankin' new. I got 3 new thermistors for about $8 (paid way more in shipping) and soldered the new one on. The motor fired right up. I am so thankful for this thread and the folks that have shared what they found. It helped me to save at least $1100. Thanks all!
 
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