York Diamond 80 Blower problem

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  #1  
Old 08-09-06, 11:35 PM
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York Diamond 80 Blower problem

I have a York Diamond 80 hvac unit approx 5-6 years old. Last night I cam home to a hot house. After going in the attic I discovered the blower motor would come on and spin very slow for about 15-20 seconds then stop and repeat after a couple of minutes. I am guessing it needs a new blower motor and I want to replace the cap at the same time.
Problem is I cant seem to cross reference the blower motor and it appears the AO Smith part # is no longer a good #. The number is F48L54A50 and is a 1075 rpm 120 volt 3 speed motor. The cap is a 15uf. I would like to replace with the same motor or a comparable one in a dayton or ? Any ideas on what this part # crosses over too? Do you think I am guessing right at the motor? I did switch the black and blue wires and had the same results.. THANKS for ANY help!
 
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  #2  
Old 08-10-06, 01:37 AM
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Symptoms could be a bad capacitor. Does the motor turn freely by hand?
 
  #3  
Old 08-10-06, 07:01 AM
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Motor turns freely.. And seems to get pretty hot to the touch quick..
 
  #4  
Old 08-10-06, 08:55 AM
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Wink

Ill bet if you call Grainger they can come up with a match for you on that motor.

ED
 
  #5  
Old 08-10-06, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Flipper
Motor turns freely.. And seems to get pretty hot to the touch quick..
I'd try the capacitor first.
 
  #6  
Old 08-10-06, 11:08 PM
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Update:
15uf Capacitor fixed the problem..

Thanks for the help!
 
  #7  
Old 08-28-06, 07:16 PM
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Where inside the service panel would I find this capacitor?

Is it one like the one in this picture <http://static.howstuffworks.com/gif/camera-flash-5.jpg>?

Dominik Hoffmann
 
  #8  
Old 09-02-06, 11:24 AM
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Talking Thanks CovTiger!

I had the same symptoms; 6 year old York Diamond 80, smell of smoke, fan not running. I read your posting and found a local hardware store which carried the 15mf/370vac capacitor and it solved my problem. Now I'm sitting in the cool air writting this message. Aaaahhh!!!
 
  #9  
Old 09-02-06, 11:29 AM
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Lightbulb York website has repair manuals on-line.

This also helped me to find the location of the capacitor.

http://www.yorkupg.com/residential.asp

Enjoy!
 
  #10  
Old 09-02-06, 12:07 PM
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I found the capacitor behind the cover of the bottom compartment of the Diamond 80. It turned out to be a GE Industrial 97F9002, 10 µF, 370 V <http://www.geindustrial.com/cwc/products?pnlid=4&famid=7&catid=29&id=motorRun&lang=en_US>. It was totally charred where the leads were. I ordered the replacement from <http://arnoldservice.com/run_capacitors.htm>, although it would also have been available from <http://www.newark.com/NewarkWebCommerce/newark/en_US/endecaSearch/partDetail.jsp?SKU=46F1238&N=0> (see description there). I went with Arnold's Service Company, because I wanted to support the Mom-and-Pop operation this appears to be.

Putting the new capacitor in fixed everything. Thanks for the previous posters for helping point me in the right direction!

Dominik Hoffmann
 
  #11  
Old 09-02-06, 04:35 PM
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Glad to be of assistance.

I found this forum while researching some carpentry issues a while ago and was so impressed with the helpful attitudes I figured I might try to give something back.
 
  #12  
Old 01-29-07, 07:31 AM
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Smile York Diamond 80 Motor slow

Your help was great and fixed my issue.
I had to replace the capacitor GE , 5 µF, 370 V.
I found the Capacitor under the controller below the fan itself.
Thanks
Al
 
  #13  
Old 06-28-08, 02:43 PM
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York Diamond 80 Capacitor Replacement

Hi,

Whoever suggested replacing the capacitor to fix this problem, thank you very much. You're very smart. I also have not one but two York Diamond 80 HVAC systems, and it was the upstairs one that wasn't working. I was getting ice on the lines, and air wasn't moving anywhere even when I turned the fan on. I took the cover off and noticed that there was a slight smell of burning oil, the blower would turn slightly before shutting off, and everything just sat there. The blower fan also turned freely by hand. As a test, I swapped the capacitor with the unit downstairs, and now the blower is turning again. We'll see if the air gets any cooler now.

I noticed some potential problems that people should be aware of.
1) The proper rating on that capacitor is 7.5mf/370 vac. However, the one from downstairs was longer and was rated at 7.5mf/440vac. I think it's a good idea if you take the capacitor out first and check what you actually have.
2) The capacitor is a metal box with two terminals at the end. It looks similar to a can of lighter fluid actually. It is located directly below your circuit board in your unit. You'll need a socket wrench to unscrew it. The wire clips simply pull right off.
I have no idea how much one of these costs, but it has to be a cheaper fix than bringing in a repair man. The fact that my capacitor failed after 5-6 years the same as the person's who posted originally suggests that this might be a common problem. I'm thinking about swapping both of them out if it's only a $10-$20 part.
 
  #14  
Old 06-28-08, 02:53 PM
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It's always OK to go up on the voltage rating. Ex if you have a 7.5x370 you can replace it with a 7.5x440. You can also usually go plus or minus 10% on the mfd rating although I always will try to match the mfd rating if at all possible.

I don't really see a good reason to replace them unless they are bad. Some capacitors will last 20 years or more and sometimes new ones go bad within a year.

Cost should be well under $20
 
  #15  
Old 06-29-08, 07:16 PM
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Thanks for letting me know about the voltage rating, CovTiger. I kept my attic open for about an hour so I could run up there and check for smoke. The hamster wheel was still spinning, so I assumed it was okay and buttoned everything up.

It was definitely the capacitor. Our upstairs unit is running just fine off the higher voltage capacitor I scuttled from our unit downstairs. I found that the capacitors run for about $7 to $11 online. Wow! That is so much cheaper than the $100-$200 minimum I know I would have had to pay an actual HVAC tech. I'm going to try picking up two 7.5/440 capacitors tomorrow from an HVAC company tomorrow. For $10 it won't hurt to have a spare around.

Thanks so much for your help, everyone. This is a great thread.
 
  #16  
Old 07-29-08, 07:55 AM
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run capacitor question

I'm having similar problems with the blower and picked up a new run capacitor. Before I put in the new one, I was wondering if it matters which wire connects to each terminal. The wires are marked for positive and negative but the run capacitor is not?
 
  #17  
Old 08-03-08, 08:15 PM
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If you havent already replaced the capacitor, I dont think that it matters. my blower works. Had to replace one myself.
 
  #18  
Old 09-12-08, 06:29 PM
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Genius

I would never have guessed to check a capacitor and that was exactly my problem as well. Thank you so much!
 
  #19  
Old 01-28-09, 08:10 AM
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York Blower Motor

Hello Everyone, Last winter my heater’s (a York Diamond 80) blower would keep trying to start then finally it would quit and I would have to cycle the power. I replaced the capacitor (GE 7.5uf 370VAC) and everything worked great.

This last December my heater started doing the same thing again. The blower motor will try to ramp up, stop and try again until the heater quits trying. I replaced the capacitor again but this time this fix has only lasted a month (30 days exactly).

Is the actual motor bad or can it be something else?

The motor is in or behind a housing (when looking from the front), is there a way to figure out what motor I have?

Is replacing the blower motor something I should attempt? I’m a pretty confident do-it-yourself-er.

I really appreciate everyone’s help!
 
  #20  
Old 03-05-09, 02:04 PM
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my heating doesn't work

i have a diamond 80 and the heating unit, better, when the unit starts after a few seconds it is suppose to have the gas kick in and heat the unit and then the blower starts. unfortunately the gas is not kicking in, so the unit just blows cold air. i have a repair guy over and spent over 5 hours and told me that problem was probably the filter i am using, which it does not make sense since i've been using that type of filter for over 2 years, replacing it every 3 months. last week i was able to reset the unit, i guess, by turning off the emergency switch (the red one on the wall) for about an hour and it would start, but now, even that doesn't work...any ideas? thanks
 
  #21  
Old 03-13-09, 05:48 AM
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my heating doesn't work either, same problem

Bocage- same exact problem here. My unit is 6 years old, I started experiencing this issue about 2 years ago - it happened once, then nothing for another year, then last year it happened a few times, and now this year I seem to be crawling in the attic almost every month to unplug my unit and reset it, not to mention the catalyst for the event is waking up to cold air blowing on you at 3 am. Power cycle seems to fix the immediate problem, but only until it happens again.

Anyone have any ideas??
 
  #22  
Old 05-25-09, 09:39 AM
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I have the same unit and the blower is not running. I smell burnt inside. The fan rotates freely when I give it a push with power off. When I pressed the safety switch for few seconds, I heard some hum as thought some thing is running but I dont think it is the blower fan. Then I saw some sparks and smoke from the motor. So, I turned off the power to the unit.

I guess the motor is gone. But, I couldn't figureout how to take the assembly out to take a closer look. Any idea how to get a closer look at the motor ?
What do you guys think ? Did I just blew up the motor or do you think replacing the capacitor will solve the problem ?
 
  #23  
Old 05-25-09, 10:46 AM
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The motor blew itself up, a capacitor will probably not fix it. Look at the blower housing closely. You should see that it is mounted on a rail on each side at it's outlet. There should be a couple screws holding it in place. Remove the screws, take photos of where the wires go, unplug the wires and slide the entire assembly forward and out. It's heavy, so be ready for that.
 
  #24  
Old 05-26-09, 05:08 PM
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There is water inside the blower assembly. I dont know how it reached there. The day before the motor burnt, I did see lot of water on the floor and condensation on the outside of the unit. Any ideas what to look for ? I dont want the next motor to endup in similar state.

Also, where do they sell the motor in NJ ? I went to the Grainger store and they wanted Tax id. It seems they dont sell retail.

Originally Posted by x1050us View Post
I have the same unit and the blower is not running. I smell burnt inside. The fan rotates freely when I give it a push with power off. When I pressed the safety switch for few seconds, I heard some hum as thought some thing is running but I dont think it is the blower fan. Then I saw some sparks and smoke from the motor. So, I turned off the power to the unit.

I guess the motor is gone. But, I couldn't figureout how to take the assembly out to take a closer look. Any idea how to get a closer look at the motor ?
What do you guys think ? Did I just blew up the motor or do you think replacing the capacitor will solve the problem ?
 
  #25  
Old 05-26-09, 07:56 PM
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Perhaps the cooling coil froze up or the drain overflowed water down onto the motor. That needs to addressed or the new motor will get wet as well. Also- SOP is new motor, new capacitor. I found these folks online. I have never used them so I can't comment.
Electric Motor Warehouse * Electric Motors * Swimming Pool Pump * Spa Pumps
 
  #26  
Old 05-27-09, 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Craddock1 View Post
Hi,

Whoever suggested replacing the capacitor to fix this problem, thank you very much. You're very smart. I also have not one but two York Diamond 80 HVAC systems, and it was the upstairs one that wasn't working. I was getting ice on the lines, and air wasn't moving anywhere even when I turned the fan on. I took the cover off and noticed that there was a slight smell of burning oil, the blower would turn slightly before shutting off, and everything just sat there. The blower fan also turned freely by hand. As a test, I swapped the capacitor with the unit downstairs, and now the blower is turning again. We'll see if the air gets any cooler now.

I noticed some potential problems that people should be aware of.
1) The proper rating on that capacitor is 7.5mf/370 vac. However, the one from downstairs was longer and was rated at 7.5mf/440vac. I think it's a good idea if you take the capacitor out first and check what you actually have.
2) The capacitor is a metal box with two terminals at the end. It looks similar to a can of lighter fluid actually. It is located directly below your circuit board in your unit. You'll need a socket wrench to unscrew it. The wire clips simply pull right off.
I have no idea how much one of these costs, but it has to be a cheaper fix than bringing in a repair man. The fact that my capacitor failed after 5-6 years the same as the person's who posted originally suggests that this might be a common problem. I'm thinking about swapping both of them out if it's only a $10-$20 part.
The VAC number is indicating the amount of BEMF the capacitor can handle from the start windings of the blower motor. You can use a 440 vac in place of a 370 vac but not the other way around.
 
  #27  
Old 07-27-09, 12:15 PM
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Last night my wife noticed our house was hot. Checked the unit outside and it was running and the coils were making cold air, but the blower wasn't working. My unit is 7 years old and the capacitor went. Just replaced it and everything seems fine again. Good thing I checked this site first because I spent just over $5 when it could have cost me a lot more.
 
  #28  
Old 07-27-09, 04:08 PM
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Thanks for the input. In this economy we need to keep that belt tight.
 
  #29  
Old 06-15-10, 10:47 AM
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York Diamond 80 Blower Problem Solved

Thank you for posting this. It also fixed my problem. My fan would not run and I replaced the capacitor which fixed it. It was not hard to replace at all.

Before I replaced I was able to get the fan to run by turning the blades then quickly pushing the saftey botton back in to have the system turn on. That is how I figured it was not the fan motor.
 
  #30  
Old 09-06-12, 04:55 PM
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fixed mine too!

I had the exact same problem as the original post. I just wanted to say that I also was able to fix my blower motor by switching out the capacitor. SO HAPPY!

I was able to pick the capacitor up locally at Grainger for $7.
 
  #31  
Old 11-14-12, 01:59 PM
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I had the same issue. I did what everyone else did and replaced the capacitor. When I powered the motor up it did the same thing as before...., then one time it did begin to engage and run. However, there was a flash and fire in the motor housing and that was that. Now I'm stuck with having to replace that motor...lol
 
  #32  
Old 02-12-13, 04:45 PM
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Fixed mine too! Awesome thread! Thanks!

I saved $650! (quote from a local repair vendor to replace blower motor and capacitor). Turns our just the capacitor was bad. I have a 2-zone so i switched the capacitor from the other unit into the bad one and voila! Ordering 2 capacitors!
 
  #33  
Old 02-12-13, 09:54 PM
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old thread............closed
 
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