Found leak-question on how to proceed


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Old 07-03-07, 04:37 AM
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Found leak-question on how to proceed

After having my approximately 28 year old AC system charged up with freon, the repair guy (works for himself) told for me said it wasn't worth the time and cost to find the leak and repair it. Note, we could see upon inspection that the original freon line was diverted. So after he left I figured I had nothing to lose to try and find the leak. Well it turns out the old line that wasn't being used in where the leak was coming from. To describe this line, picture a sipping straw. Now pinch that straw as to cut off the flow supply. Well that's what this pipe looks like and the leak was seeping out of the top.

Until I get some expert advice, I tried sealing the leak with epoxy then duct tape over it in hope the epoxy sets in and then epoxy again over the tape. As you know trying to seal a bubbling leak is a challenge, so I'm not sure if it is holding. I will be checking it sometime today.

My question is can this leak somehow be sealed without emptying the system? It didn't appear to be a major leak, but then again, I don't know from leaks. Just tiny bubbles.
 
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Old 07-03-07, 04:50 AM
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Depending on the size of the pipe it is sometimes possible to use a pinch off tool to hold back the refrigerant while the end is brazed.
However, your attempt at repair may have made this not possible.

I would suggest you find another tech as any that says a leak is not worth finding is not too serious about the quality of their work.
 
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Old 07-03-07, 06:43 AM
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It would be nearly impossible to stop a leak on a pressurized system with epoxy. As mentioned, crimp tool and braze is the best. But I don't think you should practice on this system. You may need a pro here.
 
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Old 07-03-07, 06:58 PM
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Freon Leak-method and cost of repair

I didn't think my attempt to try and seal it off with epoxy would work, but I had the stuff in the house and said a prayer. I am aware the only real solution is for it to be brazed, but my attempt doesn't appear to have done any harm. I was able to remove everything. The pipe from which the leak is occurring, as I mentioned in my original post, resembles a pinched sippng straw. So it looks like the pinch off method that you mentioned was the method used here. I will call back the guy I used to add the freon and see if he wants to do the job, but if anyone can offer me any info as to what I should expect in terms of the method used to fix the problem, I would appreciate it. As I've mentioned I would prefer if it could be sealed without releasing the freon. But if this can't be done, what are all the steps the repair guy will take and what would you say would be a reasonable price. I'm a gal, so they may think they can rob me. Afterall, the last repair guy said the system wasn't worth looking for the leak. Now that I told him I found it easily I wonder what he will say.

Originally Posted by GregH
Depending on the size of the pipe it is sometimes possible to use a pinch off tool to hold back the refrigerant while the end is brazed.
However, your attempt at repair may have made this not possible.

I would suggest you find another tech as any that says a leak is not worth finding is not too serious about the quality of their work.
 
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Old 07-03-07, 08:23 PM
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Wink

It sounds like the leak is on a fill stub that was used to fill the unit when it was made. You dont say just how long it is or where. If you have the room on it
Like said a pinch off tool on it and below it pack wet rages on the tube then try to silfose it
 
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Old 07-04-07, 06:24 AM
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Your problem is repairable, but it will likely cost a few hundred dollars. There is a fair chance the freon charge will need to be recovered. This may add to the cost.
I usually repair systems of any age provided the cost is not too high and there is a reasonable chance the system will last through the summer. Some techs are hesitant to repair older equipment for various reasons. Sometimes a customer does not understand that other failures (probably major) are likely on an aging system and blame the tech. I try to explain this to my customers. On the other hand, some of the best equipment is the old stuff. Those old GE and Carrier systems seem to last forever with just minor repairs.

Good luck.
 
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Old 07-04-07, 07:00 AM
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Leak location and pipe length

The pipe is directly connected to the tank which holds the freon. There is a joint approximately 2" from where it was pinched. So is this too little pipe to work with considering after the joint the pipe curves into the tank? Also the coil pipe runs up and comes within a 1/2" of the fill stub pipe. I would guess this could hamper the repair too.

So I thought this, what is now be identifying as a fill stub pipe, was once connected to something, but it appears that is not the case. Well it would only make sense that the tank has to be tested before going to the market, and the only way to do that is to have a fill stub. But is pinching it off the industry standard, or do you think this pipe had issues in the past and may have been repaired? Thank you for the education. I sometimes say if I was young again I would pick a career in HVAC, although I've been told these guys work like dogs and make most of their money on commissions so that's why the prices are so high and that some suggest repairs or parts that may not be needed. So I am trying to get as much info as possible before I go with this repair. So if at all possible, if the pipe can be brazened without releasing the freon, I would like to know. Thanks.

Originally Posted by Ed Imeduc
It sounds like the leak is on a fill stub that was used to fill the unit when it was made. You dont say just how long it is or where. If you have the room on it
Like said a pinch off tool on it and below it pack wet rages on the tube then try to silfose it
 
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Old 07-04-07, 07:25 AM
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Picture?

Any chance of taking a picture of the "tank" (sounds like the compressor) & stub area so we might be better able to guide you. You can post the pic(s) on photobucket or similar site & provide us with the URL to it/them.
 
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Old 07-04-07, 07:27 AM
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You mention tank. Are you talking about the compressor? It's usually located in the middle (sometimes off to the side) of the outdoor unit (condensing unit). The compressor has three large wires going to it. In addition it will have a large copper line and a small copper line connected to it. There may be a third small copper line that does not connect to anything. I assume this is what you are talking about. It is called a "fill stub" or "process tube".

Like mentioned, worst case situation is to recover freon and braze. Best case scenario, crimp and braze without having to recover freon.
 
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Old 07-04-07, 07:50 AM
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Oops correction

Yes that would be the compressor. Sorry for my confusion and thanks for the reply. So help me out here. So what does this tank have to do in relation to the freon leak? Also, when the repairman took off the cap to that cylinder where you add and/or measure the freon level, it made a pressurized sound like when you first put a valve on a tire to fill it. He said it shouldn't do that and it could be leaking from there.

Meanwhile we have been having nice weather in the northeast and I haven't had to use my air since he added the freon. I may just let the thing take its course and see if I can make it thru the summer. I'd rather go with the repair during the offseason

Originally Posted by jim-connor
You mention tank. Are you talking about the compressor? It's usually located in the middle (sometimes off to the side) of the outdoor unit (condensing unit). The compressor has three large wires going to it. In addition it will have a large copper line and a small copper line connected to it. There may be a third small copper line that does not connect to anything. I assume this is what you are talking about. It is called a "fill stub" or "process tube".

Like mentioned, worst case situation is to recover freon and braze. Best case scenario, crimp and braze without having to recover freon.
 
 

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