Coolant leak in system, would ne one recommend using a sealer?
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Coolant leak in system, would ne one recommend using a sealer?
My HVAC guy has been out twice this year and filled my AC with coolant. First we thought there was a leak in the valve so we tightened it really good using some thread tape. This seemed to fix the problem for about a month, then back to freezing up!
He mentioned to me today on the phone that he knows of a sealer that we can try and it is supposed to work really good. Didn't sound too intriguing to me so that's why I'm here to ask the pro's. Should I be worried about him using this "sealer" or any type of sealer for that matter?
He mentioned to me today on the phone that he knows of a sealer that we can try and it is supposed to work really good. Didn't sound too intriguing to me so that's why I'm here to ask the pro's. Should I be worried about him using this "sealer" or any type of sealer for that matter?
#2
I am against them. I know some guys have tried it on old systems for a trial with no bid problems but just like radiator sealers and others. It can't be good.
How old is your system ?
How old is your system ?
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I have used sealer before in a 10 yr old Coleman system and it worked great for sealing up a leak. I was adding freon every year til my tech tried the sealer. Worked great for me for the last 3 years!
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One of the REQUIRED skills of being an a/c tech is the ability to find leaks. I'm sure the other techs in this forum would agree. Suppose a plumber couldn't find a water leak? Would he/she be a good plumber? Me thinks not. It's the same thing with a/c. There are plenty of ways to find refrigerant leaks with great accuracy. If your technician cannot find a leak, you may need a new technician.
Suppose later on you need to replace a compressor. Are you going to install it with that stuff still in the system? I think the compressor manufacturer is going to have a problem when it comes to warranty. Also, I don't know of any cost effective way to remove leak stopper from the system. So in the future, your only options will be to replace the entire system including the lineset. Have you given this any thought?
Suppose later on you need to replace a compressor. Are you going to install it with that stuff still in the system? I think the compressor manufacturer is going to have a problem when it comes to warranty. Also, I don't know of any cost effective way to remove leak stopper from the system. So in the future, your only options will be to replace the entire system including the lineset. Have you given this any thought?
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First we thought there was a leak in the valve so we tightened it really good using some thread tape. This seemed to fix the problem for about a month, then back to freezing up!
If this is a schrader valve. He can put a new stem in it and not take the freon out or anything. Id sure try this before Id put any sealer in the unit. Has he tried any red dye leak detector yet??
If this is a schrader valve. He can put a new stem in it and not take the freon out or anything. Id sure try this before Id put any sealer in the unit. Has he tried any red dye leak detector yet??
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I recently serviced a residence where a homeowner had another company come out to try and fix the problem. He was unable to find and fix the problem and recommended they call us. . In an attempt to save the remaining refrigerant I attempted a pump down. My gauge reading increased leading to the conclusion of leaking valves in the compressor.( I was wrong ) After recovering the refrigerant I performed a leak test and noticed my low side gauge pressure increasing. This confirmed my suspicion that the unit was leaking. I tried to find the leak in the line set and at the flare fittings, all brazed joints included. I then moved to the air handler and found nothing there also. I moved to the condenser to check the coil ( I already checked the schrader valves ), and noticed the service valve core was bubbling slightly,and I mean very slightly,but when I first checked there were no bubbles. The core of the service valve was leaking. I sweated out the service valve assembly and brazed 3/4 inch line. Added a brazed service valve "stem type", recharged the unit and it's been running problem free for 2 months. Bill was $495 vs. replacement of $5,800(estimate) This unit is 26 years old and still runs like a champ. 12 degree superheat, 10 degree sub cooling, 225 head, 68 suction, and a 21 degree delta. The home owner has had this unit serviced twice a year for 26 years; a testament to the worth of maintenance programs. And yes, good technicians who do quality cost saving work are hard to find. As always, buyer beware.
#10
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Leak Detection
As Jim-Conner said there are several ways to find leaks in A/C systems & no one way is perfect. I have had very good luck using a dye made by Spectroline. It shows up as a yellow-green spot under UV light. I have that sealant in two systems as an experiment to see if it will work. The customers were advised in advance that my company had no first hand experience with the stuff & if it did not work, the entire system would have to be replaced.
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I agree with the dye. As long as you have visual access, you can quickly find the leak. Electronic leak detection works well too, but it can be very time consuming, especially on a big coil.
In my book, when all else fails, or if you don't have the time, use the dye.
In my book, when all else fails, or if you don't have the time, use the dye.
#12
It's pretty rare that you are going to have a leak that drops two pounds in a month that doesn't leave an oil stain. The few times when I haven't been able to localize a leak with the electronic detector or the soap, I've taken a really good degreaser or contact cleaner and cleaned the heck out of everything. Then get enough charge in it to run for 24 hours. Come back the next day and chances are you'll find a spot with some oil. Leak found.