Amana RCE36C2C


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Old 06-24-08, 10:10 AM
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Amana RCE36C2C

I have a Amana RCE36C2C unit that was put in last year however I never had it completed. The company that put it in went out of business and never returned. My electrician recommended his brother who does HVAC work so I had him come by. On the thermostat he had to connect a jumper from the heat to the ac because there wasn't anything connected for the cooling side.I had him vacuum test the lines and all was well until he noticed that the low voltage wiring outside by the unit was not connected. There were 3 wires (red/white/yellow) and on the unit there is also 3 wires 2 black and 1 yellow. He did not understand this unit and started connecting the wires. I heard the compressor come on for like a second and stop and after that, only the fan worked. Did he blow anything out? He told me that I would need a hard start kit. Is this true? The following day I decided to check to make sure my heating unit still worked and that's when I noticed that the fan was not working either. I then noticed that on the system board over by the furnace there was a fuse 'E' that was blown out. I replaced it with another fuse of the same kind and solved that problem but the compressor still does not kick on(only the fan starts). Any advice is apprediated. Does any of this sound weird? Thanks in advance for any assistance.
 
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Old 06-24-08, 10:45 AM
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Could you post pictures of what you're reporting (both, on the outdoors control panel as well as the furnace's board and vicinity)?
Also the M/N of the furnace indoors.

The specs for your unit do not indicate anything unusual, it's supposed to be a plain vanilla single stage cooling system.
 
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Old 06-24-08, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by pflor
Could you post pictures of what you're reporting (both, on the outdoors control panel as well as the furnace's board and vicinity)?
Also the M/N of the furnace indoors.

The specs for your unit do not indicate anything unusual, it's supposed to be a plain vanilla single stage cooling system.
As soon as I get home from work I will post some pictures.

Thanks
 
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Old 06-24-08, 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by pflor
Could you post pictures of what you're reporting (both, on the outdoors control panel as well as the furnace's board and vicinity)?
Also the M/N of the furnace indoors.

The specs for your unit do not indicate anything unusual, it's supposed to be a plain vanilla single stage cooling system.
Ok I think I was able to figure out the add image thing. Please look at the pictures and let me know if you have a questions. The furnace is in the attic about 25 feet away.



Oh and should I purchase the Hard Start Kit like he told me to? Should the compressor come on even though I don't have one because right now, I don't hear a sound when I bypass the low voltage wires. Only the fan comes on and not a sound from the compressor.
 

Last edited by gr987; 06-24-08 at 04:12 PM.
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Old 06-24-08, 05:27 PM
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This unit is so new that a hard start kit should not be the first thing on the repair agenda.

The wife here is coercing me into a half-an-hour walk so I'll get back to you later tonight.

BTW I have the schematic for your condensing unit, I'll post it later as well.

I take it that pic-6 is the furnace's board. The furnace's MFR name and M/N may come in handy, same with the thermostat.

One last thing before I walk out of the house:
When you say "only the fan comes ON", are you referring to the blower inside the house? the one inside the furnace? or are you referring to the blower in the outdoor unit, the one by the compressor?
 
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Old 06-24-08, 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by pflor
This unit is so new that a hard start kit should not be the first thing on the repair agenda.

The wife here is coercing me into a half-an-hour walk so I'll get back to you later tonight.

BTW I have the schematic for your condensing unit, I'll post it later as well.

I take it that pic-6 is the furnace's board. The furnace's MFR name and M/N may come in handy, same with the thermostat.

One last thing before I walk out of the house:
When you say "only the fan comes ON", are you referring to the blower inside the house? the one inside the furnace? or are you referring to the blower in the outdoor unit, the one by the compressor?

Ah yes, the half hour walk. I was out before with the wife and kids and we contemplated the same thing but it was getting late for the kids.

The furnace is a AMV90905DXA not quite sure of the M/N but if you think it would help I will crawl up on in there and find for ya . The thermostat is a White Rodgers and on the inside cover it says model 1F80-361.

Yes number 6 is the furnace board and 7 is the low voltage coming out from the house.
I also came across the limited warranty papers that state that the unit has a lifetime warranty only if it is registered within 60 days of installation. Does that mean my warranty is void?

Thank you for all your help
 
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Old 06-24-08, 07:31 PM
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Pic-2: the two black wires must be connected together
Pic-2: the fact that the yellow and blue are wired together by means of that wire nut tells me that your unit does not have cutout switches (neither the high-pressure, nor the low-pressure cutouts). I don't have the whole picture but I believe that blue wire goes and connects to one of the four terminals in the time-delay controller (this controller is the one shown on pic-3)
Pic-3: If I'm correct above (and the blue wire mentioned above indeed goes to the time-delay controller), the blue and yellow wires have been tampered with...reverse their current connections. The picture shows the yellow wire connected to the left terminal and the blue to the right...REVERSE...blue must connect to the left and yellow to the right
Pic-7: This is the thermostat cable that goes inside the house and connects to the furnace. You only need to use two of those 3 wires, use the yellow and one more (your pick)...in the furnace, one of them MUST connect to terminal labeled "Y" on the terminal board (say...the yellow wire) and the other (say: white) MUST connect to terminal labeled "C" on the terminal board.
Same Pic-7: the yellow wire in this picture must connect to the yellow wire of Pic-2...AND...the white wire in Pic-7 must be connected together with the two black wires of Pic-2.
Pic-6: not clear, too much glare. The two wires (yellow and white) of the thermostat cable that comes from the outdoors (Pic-7) should connect to terminals "Y" (the yellow wire) and "C" (the white wire)...NO MORE, NO LESS.

In the interest of getting this info to you before you go to bed I'm posting without double-checking...I hope I did not make any mistakes with my references. I'll let you know otherwise.
 
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Old 06-24-08, 07:40 PM
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The Schematic

For your unit. Maybe you have it, maybe not. If not, is good to keep it handy. Good luck with the re-wiring!!!

 
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Old 06-25-08, 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by pflor
For your unit. Maybe you have it, maybe not. If not, is good to keep it handy. Good luck with the re-wiring!!!

Thanks p.flor,

After getting all the model numbers for you I did a little research on my own and realized that my furnace is a two-stage unit and my thermostat is only rated for single stage(is this correct?). And looking at my AC unit, it doesn't say anywhere whether it is a single or two stage unit. Where can I find this out? Also, On the time-delay you state that the wires are crossed. In pic 3, the picture has been taken right side up however the time-delay device is actually install upside down. It's hard to see in the pic but blue is actually labeled as R1, black is R2 and the yellow wire is Y1. Do you still think they are crossed and both black wires should still be tied together?

Also does the wiring on the thermostat look correct?

Once again, thank you very much for your assistance.
 

Last edited by gr987; 06-25-08 at 10:10 AM.
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Old 06-25-08, 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by gr987
After getting all the model numbers for you I did a little research on my own and realized that my furnace is a two-stage unit and my thermostat is only rated for single stage(is this correct?)
yes, your furnace is a 2-stage unit and yes, your t-stat is a single stage device. If you tell me the maker of the furnace I may be able to help more. A 1-stage t-stat and a 2-stage furnace can work together...you just won't be taking advantage of the staging (the furnace will not modulate, it will be running as if it were a single stage unit...you'd do well in replacing the t-stat with another having 2 stages of heat and 1 of cooling)

Originally Posted by gr987
And looking at my AC unit, it doesn't say anywhere whether it is a single or two stage unit. Where can I find this out?
your AC unit is a single stage device

Originally Posted by gr987
Also, On the time-delay you state that the wires are crossed. In pic 3, the picture has been taken right side up however the time-delay device is actually install upside down. It's hard to see in the pic but blue is actually labeled as R1, black is R2 and the yellow wire is Y1. Do you still think they are crossed and both black wires should still be tied together?
I am aware of the pic being upside down. Yes the wires are crossed, and Yes the two black wires must be wired together and follow all the wiring recommendations I indicated in my posting of yesterday night (10:31PM).

Originally Posted by gr987
Also does the wiring on the thermostat look correct?
The pic is a bit too glary and the wires are partially covering the letters/labels, so I can't tell for sure what's connected where. This is the way it should be wired at the thermostat to be correct:
red wire --> to Rh terminal (or the Rc, either is ok)
jumper--> between terminals Rh and Rc
white wire --> to W terminal
green wire --> to G terminal

I also see a blue wire there...what's the label of the terminal to which it is connected? Is it a "C"? That blue wire goes and connects to a terminal in the furnace's terminal board...what's the terminal letter at the furnace to which that blue wire is connected? Is it "C"? If so, you're good there.

If that t'stat was doing it's job prior to that tech coming to your home, then all is ok there...I see the display lit, that's a good sign for sure.
 
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Old 06-25-08, 04:07 PM
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p.flor

Thanks once again on all that usefull info. The Blue wire you see is connected to the C on the t-stat and on the furnace board it is connected to the B/C terminal. There is also a Yellow wire connected to the Y on the t-stat and goes to the Y on the furnace board. It looks like they also connected a red wire from the furnace board to the unit outside. I guess I don't need that.

I think I found the answer to my question about the compressor not coming on though. A friend at work gave me his voltage tester and when I got home I tested the high voltage which only contains a black, red and a ground. I am only getting 116 volts to the unit when it should be wired for 230. The unit was there when the electricians were wiring it but I guess they didn't read it correctly. Anyway, I have them coming back out on Tuesday. I still didn't tell them about that yet. The only reason he is coming out is because his brother was the AC guy that came out last Saturday and he felt bad that his brother didn't get me running. Unless he knows that he screwed up with the feed to the unit.
Ughh and it supposed to be getting humid in the next few days.
Thanks again.
 
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Old 06-25-08, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by gr987
Thanks once again on all that usefull info. The Blue wire you see is connected to the C on the t-stat and on the furnace board it is connected to the B/C terminal. There is also a Yellow wire connected to the Y on the t-stat and goes to the Y on the furnace board.
All good here


Originally Posted by gr987
It looks like they also connected a red wire from the furnace board to the unit outside. I guess I don't need that.
You're correct. You don't need that

Originally Posted by gr987
I think I found the answer to my question about the compressor not coming on though. A friend at work gave me his voltage tester and when I got home I tested the high voltage which only contains a black, red and a ground. I am only getting 116 volts to the unit when it should be wired for 230.
Where did you put the meter leads when you read 116V? You will read 116 between black (I think is gray, not black) and green, and also between red and green...that is normal. But you should read 230V between black (grey?) and red. Did you did that?

Even if that electrician hooked up the wrong power (and you get 116 between gray and red), the time-delay controller is hooked up wrong too. That compressor will NOT start unless the controller is wired-up properly.

Check for 230 volts between black (actually I believe that wire is gray, not black) and red on the side where you see the green wire, NOT on the side where you have the violet wire as well.

If you check for voltage on the side where there's also that violet wire you surely will read 116V but it is NOT b/c there's anything wrong with the power supply but b/c the contactor contacts are open.

Try what I have recommended you in terms of re-wiring, your unit will fire-up nicely.
Are you getting cold feet?
 
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Old 06-25-08, 05:00 PM
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HA HA Actually I shouldn't be laughing. I just called the electrician to get his A$$ down here because the breaker box outside by the unit has a black, white and ground coming out. Black and white(these are the ones that I tested) are going to each terminal and the ground is going to ground of course. However, when I check the breaker that is feeding that there is a black and red connected to the breaker which each read 115. AH HA!! Someone didn't wire it correctly. I don't see the red wire outside so that means that I have a live 115 volt wire around that connection somewhere..Oops, I better go turn that off. Electrician is coming over tonight I will let you know the outcome.
 
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Old 06-25-08, 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by gr987
the breaker box outside by the unit has a black, white and ground coming out. Black and white(these are the ones that I tested) are going to each terminal and the ground is going to ground of course. However, when I check the breaker that is feeding that there is a black and red connected to the breaker which each read 115. AH HA!!
Wow! That guy sure did not know what he was doing.
 
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Old 06-25-08, 05:27 PM
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Sorry but a little confusion on my 7:07 post. I said that I tested the breaker at the unit and it had a Black, Red and ground. I meant to say it had a Black, White and ground. I tested by putting one side on the ground and the other on the black and it read 116 I then did the same with the white wire and the ground and it was reading practically nothing. That's what lead me to the breaker inside that was feeding that box. I apologize for not knowing the terminology but I kinda think I know what I am doing half the time.
I'll keep ya informed on what the electrician does...
 
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Old 06-25-08, 05:33 PM
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If you disconnect power to the fuse box (the high voltage side, which apparently is 116v instead of 230V)) and re-wire the control side (low voltage side) as I recommended on my posting of yesterday night, on a call for cooling from the t-stat you should be able to see the contacts of the contactor pull-in. It will take anywhere from 3-to-5 minutes before you hear the snapping sound of the contactor contacts closing (b/c that is the job of the time-delay controller), but it shall do so. Try it, you'll be your family's hero tonight.
 
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Old 06-26-08, 05:21 AM
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Originally Posted by pflor
If you disconnect power to the fuse box (the high voltage side, which apparently is 116v instead of 230V)) and re-wire the control side (low voltage side) as I recommended on my posting of yesterday night, on a call for cooling from the t-stat you should be able to see the contacts of the contactor pull-in. It will take anywhere from 3-to-5 minutes before you hear the snapping sound of the contactor contacts closing (b/c that is the job of the time-delay controller), but it shall do so. Try it, you'll be your family's hero tonight.
AAHHHHHHH Let there be AC!. The electrician showed up and rewired his mistake and with your help on the low voltage hook up I got my compressor started and getting a reading of about 20 degrees less than room temp. I did not let it run because I still have to make sure the drainage is correct. I did not want to wake up to my sheetrock on the floor.

Thanks again P.Flor
 
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Old 06-26-08, 05:44 AM
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Congrats!
Have a Corona on me

BTW, you should consider upgrading that thermostat. The way you have it now is like buying a corvette for a teenage son and fixing the gas pedal so he can't go past 30MPH.
Needless to say, he'll get no dates Heck! may as well give him a Yugo!
 
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Old 06-26-08, 06:14 AM
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Originally Posted by pflor
Congrats!
Have a Corona on me

BTW, you should consider upgrading that thermostat. The way you have it now is like buying a corvette for a teenage son and fixing the gas pedal so he can't go past 30MPH.
Needless to say, he'll get no dates Heck! may as well give him a Yugo!
Will do!

Thanks again.............................................
 
 

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