Compressor Will Not Turn On


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Old 08-02-08, 04:18 PM
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Compressor Will Not Turn On

Ok here we go. I had a HVAC guy out like I regularly do to check the unit and he goes outside(not upstairs) and checks the freon. Everything checks out good and he gives me the regular change your filter blah blah blah. 2 weeks later the upstairs blower breaks off of the motor so it will not turn anymore and is wedged into the blower motor housing. HVAC guy #2 comes out and says $750 to replace this thing(really don't care about the price gouge home warranty). He comes out and replaces the blower and it comes on but now the outside compressor will no longer turn on. Here is the question. Could he have blown a fuse to make the outside no longer work? He says that it needs another control panel to get it to work and I am thinking that this jackass is just throwing parts at the problem hoping that he can make it work. Please help.
 
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Old 08-02-08, 04:47 PM
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Is the stat set on "cool", not just fan "on"?

Does the outside fan run, when call for cool?
 
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Old 08-02-08, 04:52 PM
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From what I can tell the blower is wired correctly from the inside cover. The outside compressor is hot by wire tester. The stat is set to 72 and turned to cool with fan on auto. The blower will turn on with these settings however the compressor still does not turn on. The outside unit will not turn on at all. No fan nothing.
 

Last edited by thebigcapith; 08-02-08 at 04:56 PM. Reason: more info
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Old 08-02-08, 07:26 PM
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check the access panel on the air handling unit it probably has a safety switch that the end was inadvertently bent on and is not being depressed when the panel is reinstalled? at least it sounds like something in the low volatge side. If you have a voltage tester we can trace backwards from the contactor until we find 24 volts and that will tell us which device is malfunctioning.
 
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Old 08-02-08, 07:42 PM
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Well when I said tester it just has a light no voltage. As far as the button I have depressed that and it doesn't seem to matter the blower works either way but the compressor does not.
 
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Old 08-03-08, 03:43 PM
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If you want to save your self money and do things right, get a volt-ohm meter (multi-meter). I've bought a handful of digital ones at Harbor Freight for $3 ea. on sale! Home centers sell the same multi-function types for about $16 or less. If you got one, we could tell you how to use it. You can test your house current, your flashlight batteries, your car battery, DC generators in miliamps or volts, your car alternator output, resistors - if your vacuum cleaner switch or the motor went out, if a motor has a dead short, if safety switches are working or not in your dryer and furnace, if a light switch is bad, if your bath fan motor went out or if it is the supply current instead, if a lightbulb should work or if your socket is bad, transformer current, if a buss fuse or any fuse is good, if you have 240 and not just 120, if your defrost element in refrigerator is good, if stove and oven elements, or electric baseboard heat elemnts are good, if you have low voltage, if compressor terminals are giving you the right readings - all kinds of stuff!

You need to actually see voltage leaving the contactor and then test the compressor terminals individually. Or spend $14+ or so, and throw in a new capacitor and see what happens.
 
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Old 08-03-08, 05:06 PM
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If you are handy with the multi meter do this:
1) Remove the control panel cover from the outside unit. With your meter set on more than 25vac test for 24v between the red and black(com) terminals on the low voltage terminal board. OK?
If not ok let us know . If ok proceed to step two.
2) With your meter set to measure 240vac, read the supply voltage coming in from the power supply. OK?
3) If two above is okay. Use a jumper wire and touch the red and yellow terminals on the low voltage terminal. You are now calling for cool.
4) When performing step 3, Did the comp and cond fan come on?
Did you hear a snap as the power contactor closed? If you heard a snap: Did the compressor hum and then drop out in three seconds. Did the comp do anything at all?
If the contactor did not snap, or say pickup, then you have either a safety device open. If you recently had the 240v off, there could be a five minute timer delay. An open coil on
on the contactor or an open in the wiring somewhere.
There is still more to be done, but let us see where you are when you do the above. We will do our best to get you there. Don't panic, stay cool if you can. If you are in the South you are not cool. Tom
Will check the site tonight before retiring and if no reply will do so mid morning. There are a lot of great guys on this forum who want to help.
 
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Old 08-07-08, 05:45 PM
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First of all thank you very much!!! Here is what has gone on and yes I am in TX.... I have spoken to an A/C tech friend not on site over the phone and he said basically the same things you guys said but directed me to the jumper button. 1. I turn on the thermostat inside and the upstairs evaporator/blower turns on as it should with fan on auto. 2. I go outside and the condenser is is still not running so I take off the shield and press the button on the right side of the contractor and what do ya know the thing kicks on. So I still do not have a multimeter and the capacitor is one year old. Anything else I can try or we looking at the board like the last A/C tech onsite wants to replace....
 
 

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