Amana 80 SSE-IIQ with dead blower

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  #1  
Old 09-11-08, 02:00 PM
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Amana 80 SSE-IIQ with dead blower

Hello, I have an Amana 80 SSE-IIQ installed in 2002 with a blower that won't come on.

About two days ago I noticed the outside cooler was running for long periods but the blower wasn't coming on. Cold air was gently leaking out from the intakes down by the floor.

I've turned it on and off several times but the results remain the same.

The technician says it's either the blower motor or the circuit board. I think it's the circuit board since the machine made no strange noises or smells before it stopped working.

When the access door is opened, and the safety switch held in, a red LED light on the upper right of the board comes on for a second when the machine is turned on. It always goes out in a second. The tech says it should stay on.

I have reached in and moved the fan blades, they move freely in both direction.

I have jiggled and pushed in on all the wire connections and found none to be loose. There are no wires hanging free, everything is plugged in.

The tech wants $1200 to replace both the blower and the circuit board. He says the circuit board alone would cost about $500.

I know there are two (models GUIS and GCIS) but I can't find that information on the machine. Where is it?

I also can't find the serial number. Does anyone know where to find it?

I'd appreciate any info you can give me.

Thanks
Dave
 
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  #2  
Old 09-11-08, 04:12 PM
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$500 is too high for the board. go find another tech. the board itself cost around $160, plus labor. Takes about 30 minutes to replace it. replace the capacitor($20) if you want to, but No need to replace blower if the problem is the board. good luck.
 
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Old 09-11-08, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by DesertDave View Post
The technician says it's either the blower motor or the circuit board.
The tech wants $1200 to replace both the blower and the circuit board. He says the circuit board alone would cost about $500.

I'd appreciate any info you can give me.

Thanks
Dave
Both sentences tell me that this person either is not the sharpest, or he is after your money. Surely he can find out if the blower works. And I see over $800 profit for like 2 1/2hours work (which includes picking up the parts he needs).
 
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Old 09-11-08, 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by clocert View Post
$500 is too high for the board. go find another tech. the board itself cost around $160, plus labor. Takes about 30 minutes to replace it. replace the capacitor($20) if you want to, but No need to replace blower if the problem is the board. good luck.
Yes, I thought so too. I've called another company. Thanks for your reply. Dave
 
  #5  
Old 09-11-08, 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by ecman51` View Post
Both sentences tell me that this person either is not the sharpest, or he is after your money. Surely he can find out if the blower works. And I see over $800 profit for like 2 1/2hours work (which includes picking up the parts he needs).
Yeah, I figure even I could figure out if the blower was working. Before I asked him how much for the board he said "It might be best to just replace the whole unit." That's when I knew something was up, but I wasn't sure until you guys responded. I've got another guy coming at 9am tomorrow. Thanks for your help.
 
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Old 09-13-08, 12:21 PM
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Let us know what HIS prognosis is and his estimate.

Repeatedly in this forum you read similar stories where it sure does sound like some tech is using someone who they feel might not know what stuff is or costs, to use it so they can do a relatively quick job and be able to take a vacation for the rest of the week.

Too bad you guys do not have my mechanic around who would work almost for free if it weren't for his wife, who manages this business end, and who gets mad at him for trying to be this nice guy, who wants people to like him, rather than be a businessman. There is a happy medium in there somewhere.
 
  #7  
Old 01-11-13, 11:10 AM
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Most common failure is igniter and flame sensor. Does the ignighter glow and cycle? IF it does not replace that first, if it goes on and off, replace the flame sensor. You can remove the ignighter and check if it has any cracks, if so, replace it. Sanding the flame sensor on these units has not cured keeping the burner on. The blower you hear is the pre-ignition cycle clearing any gas prior to the ignighter glowing on. You can also check the flu, if it is blocked, sensors in the furnace will not allow it to come on.
 
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Old 01-11-13, 11:14 AM
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Thread is over 4 years old and the OP has not been back since their last post.
 
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