Really need some help, please


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Old 09-23-08, 08:29 AM
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Really need some help, please

I live in a 2003 double wide trailer with central air conditioning and heating. At the start of summer, this happened. When you go turn the thermostat up or down for air conditioning to make it kick on, the thermostat kicks when you move it up or down, but the air never kicks on. We checked the heat side and same thing. It kicks like it should come on, but the air just never starts. I called a local repairman and he said he would come out and just never did and never called either. So we just used our windown unit for a/c this summer, did not really need the central air. But now winter is coming up and we have to have heat, have a 2 y/o son. Called the same repairman and he did the same thing, made an appointment and never showed and never called. You can not even seem to be willing to pay someone for their service around here and depend on them to come out. I called another company and they were pretty busy, but the woman on the phone said that it sounded like it could be the capacitor when I told her my problem. She said that they could come out later next week, but that I could go ahead and take the capacitor loose and take it to a local store to get a new one and put it back in and if that did not fix it, they could come out next week. She said that if that did not work, then it was probably the compressor which is a lot more expensive. Can anyone help me with my problem?

Thanks for any future help.

Jessica
 
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Old 09-23-08, 10:17 AM
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Jessica,

Welcome aboard.

Need a little more info.. Is your system set up with a furnace in the hall way, and A/C unit outside of the home?

When you switch the t-stat to Cool, and turn down the temp, nothing happens inside and outside?

Also if you set the fan switch on the thermostat from "AUTO" to "ON", nothing happens?

When you say "kick" do you hear a click sound at the t-stat or the furnace itself?
 
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Old 09-23-08, 11:20 AM
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Could be a control wire, fan relay, fan motor or capacitor, or maybe the fan is powered seperately. Check for any single pole 15 amp circuit breaker that's tripped or off.
Is this a split system with electric heat, a split with gas or oil heat, or a heat pump?
Inquiring minds want to know...
 
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Old 09-23-08, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Jay11J
Jessica,

Welcome aboard.

Need a little more info.. Is your system set up with a furnace in the hall way, and A/C unit outside of the home?

When you switch the t-stat to Cool, and turn down the temp, nothing happens inside and outside?

Also if you set the fan switch on the thermostat from "AUTO" to "ON", nothing happens?

When you say "kick" do you hear a click sound at the t-stat or the furnace itself?

Well, I am not sure about the furnace thing. We have a unit in the wall, somewhat close to the breaker box on the inside and there is a big box on the outside at the back of our house.

When I switch the thermostat to scool and turn the temp down to get it low enough to come on, the thermostat makes a clicking noise but never comes on.

Also when I set the switch to on instead of auto, nothing happens, nothing ever comes on. But yes, I can make the thermostat click like it is supposed to come on and it just never does. The clicking noise comes from the thermostat, like it always would do before the air or heat would start coming out. Either the air or the heat used to come on as soon as you clicked the thermostat up or down, and the other would take a few minutes and then the air/heat would come on. I can not remember which one did what though.

Thanks so much for your reply.

Jess
 
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Old 09-23-08, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by HVAC Mech.
Could be a control wire, fan relay, fan motor or capacitor, or maybe the fan is powered seperately. Check for any single pole 15 amp circuit breaker that's tripped or off.
Is this a split system with electric heat, a split with gas or oil heat, or a heat pump?
Inquiring minds want to know...
We did check the breaker box in the house to see if there was a breaker that had been thrown and there had not. We flipped the switch and it still did not work.

I am not sure about the split system thing. I really don't know much about it, but we just can't seem to get anyone to come out to help us, so I thought I would try to get some help from here. We have a central air unit that has an on/auto switch and a heat/off/cool switch on the thermostat box. The central air unit is the normal unit that already comes in a double wide trailor. We do not have gas heat, so that can't be it. It is either electric heat or a heat pump, I am probably guessing a pump though. The air and heat comes out of the same vent and you can change it at the thermostat.

Thanks so much for your help though.

Jess
 
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Old 09-23-08, 01:33 PM
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Hate to be out of the box when we haven't gotten in one yet.

I'm thinking battery operated stat with blown fuse, popped breaker, fried transformer in the indoor unit.

To solve the Heat Pump question.

Jessica, do you have an oil tank? Propane or natural gas? What size breaker do you have for the inside unit?

It's molded into the switch part, maybe 20, 30, 40, 50, or 60. this along with the oil, natural gas, propane question will tell us what you have there.
 
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Old 09-23-08, 01:50 PM
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I will try to check when I go home this evening. I really do not think we have propane or gas though or anything.
 
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Old 09-23-08, 03:31 PM
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Sounds like a HP or an A/C with strip heat. If the breakers didn't appear to be tripped, you might try switching the heat/ac brkrs from on to off and then back on. Some brkrs don't move when they trip.
If those are OK, then we go on to the control circuit.
 
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Old 09-24-08, 04:40 AM
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do you at least get the FAN when you put it to ON at the stat?if your getting clicking at the stat when you call your systems on/off it is a control problem...DO NOT let anybody change any parts especially over the phone they are guessing you have a control problem.call somebody else and tell them you need a stat checked out...and that your calling in the systems with clicking.if you have a digital stat with LED screen you have 24V power.the tech needs to come in remove the stat off the subbase and JUMP the different systems on those terminals R-G...FAN R-G-W...HEAT R-G-Y...COOL or you could do it and save a service call and get back on here with those results.... paper clip will do the trick and you won't get shocked jumping it
 
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Old 09-24-08, 06:52 AM
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A little more info now

Went home last night and the breaker switch that the air is on says 20 and the heat switch says 30 and 20 (a couple of switches are heat). We had already bought a new capacitor like the lady had said and when we replaced the other, it still did not work, so must not have been that. I asked my husband if when I clicked the switch on the thermostat and it clicked if the big unit at the back of the house outside did anything and it did not. It did not run or anything, I don't think. I don't think you can ever hear a fan running or anything after you turn the thermostat to whatever temp you want. I turned it down low enough for the cool air to click on, like it always did, but nothing ever did come on. Anyone with any ideas about what could be wrong now. The lady on the phone said that if the capacitor did not work, then it was probably the compressor (a lot more expensive I am guessing than the $5 capacitor we bought for it). Does anyone know if this is true? I am really kind of afraid my husband did not put the capacitor back on right, but it seemed like it looked pretty simple to put it back on. We neither one no much about it. But it did not look that hard. Thanks so much for everyone's help, BTW.

And the last comment I read, did you mean to take the entire thermostat box off the wall. I am going to print out all of these responses I get, and take them home for my husband to read and maybe try some of these suggestions you all make.

Thanks again.
 
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Old 09-24-08, 06:55 AM
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Originally Posted by HVAC Mech.
Sounds like a HP or an A/C with strip heat. If the breakers didn't appear to be tripped, you might try switching the heat/ac brkrs from on to off and then back on. Some brkrs don't move when they trip.
If those are OK, then we go on to the control circuit.
We have done this a couple of times, even when it first did not work. We flipped the breakers a couple of times, because we used to do that in the old trailer that we lived in. After flipping the breaker switch, it still does not work.

Thanks
 
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Old 09-24-08, 06:56 AM
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What is the make and model # of the air handler inside?

I am guessing the low voltage transfromer has gone out, since all the breakers are OK.

Do you have a meter to take low voltage reading?

Was this capacitor changed out in the unit inside or outside?
 
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Old 09-24-08, 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Jay11J
What is the make and model # of the air handler inside?

I am guessing the low voltage transfromer has gone out, since all the breakers are OK.

Do you have a meter to take low voltage reading?

Was this capacitor changed out in the unit inside or outside?
Well the capacitor was changed out on the inside.

I don't know about any meter to take a reading? Where would that be if we had one inside/outside?

Where is the make and model number located and I will call my husband later and have him find it?

How expensive is a low voltage transformer and is it fairly easy to replace, so that we could do it ourselves?
 
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Old 09-24-08, 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by jessicawc
Well the capacitor was changed out on the inside.
We'll see what you got once we get the model #

I don't know about any meter to take a reading? Where would that be if we had one inside/outside?
Inside, where the t-stat wires hook up to in the air handler.

Where is the make and model number located and I will call my husband later and have him find it?
He will have to look some where in the air handler for a silver sticker/tag with info on it, and the model # should be posted on it.

How expensive is a low voltage transformer and is it fairly easy to replace, so that we could do it ourselves?
Most of them are around $40-60 range, and can be easy to change out if it not burried under anything.
 
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Old 09-24-08, 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Jay11J
We'll see what you got once we get the model #


Inside, where the t-stat wires hook up to in the air handler.


He will have to look some where in the air handler for a silver sticker/tag with info on it, and the model # should be posted on it.


Most of them are around $40-60 range, and can be easy to change out if it not burried under anything.
What is an air handler and where is it at? Is it somewhere close to where the capacitor was? The capacitor was located in the wall, behind a ventlike cover.
 
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Old 09-24-08, 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by jessicawc
What is an air handler and where is it at? Is it somewhere close to where the capacitor was? The capacitor was located in the wall, behind a ventlike cover.
An air handler is your system in the wall. This contains the blower, controls, evaporator, and electric heat strips.
 
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Old 09-24-08, 09:07 AM
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Okay, as soon as I talk to my husband, I will let you know if he can find the model and things.
 
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Old 09-24-08, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Jay11J
What is the make and model # of the air handler inside?

I am guessing the low voltage transfromer has gone out, since all the breakers are OK.

Do you have a meter to take low voltage reading?

Was this capacitor changed out in the unit inside or outside?
My husband said that the model number said: EB15B Is that what you were asking?

He also said that he thinks there might be a meter.
 

Last edited by jessicawc; 09-24-08 at 10:28 AM. Reason: adding more information
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Old 09-24-08, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by jessicawc
My husband said that the model number said: EB15B Is that what you were asking?
What brand is on the front cover/grill of the unit? (Like Coleman, Intertherm, Miller...)

If he got a electrical meter, set it to read voltage, and put the probe between R and C at the air handler, or at the stat.
 
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Old 09-24-08, 03:47 PM
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removing the stat(clips off),and leave the subbase up on the wall.you should see the control wires going to lettered terminals that are low voltage 24vs.they come up from the air handler and are sent out to the (R-Y)condenser on a call for cooling.if you jump the terminals as i listed and get reaction to each your problem is the thermostat not the systems.
 
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Old 09-24-08, 09:30 PM
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Lots of questions and answers here already. Let me recap all of them for you, and make it simple to understand-- When you move your Stats, the click should send a command (by 24 V wire) to a relay in the outside unit to start the system. In your case, it didn't. this can be caused by one of many problems: lets start with the most common one, first you should check to see if you have electricity goes to the outside unit, then check or simply replace the outside capacitor, like that lady told you, outside one, not inside one. if that's not the problem, check to see if you have a 24V command sent to outside unit (like the previous post told you). An relay in the outside unit receives the 24 V command, it should kick the compressor and fan on, if not, the relay may be bad, the last one is your compressor which cost some where around $1000 to put a new one in. There is only so much you can do, I suggest go ahead replace the outside capacitor(and make sure cut off the power before you do that) , if that did not fix your problem, call another tech.
 

Last edited by clocert; 09-24-08 at 09:48 PM.
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Old 09-24-08, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by clocert
first you should check to see if you have electricity goes to the outside unit, then check or simply replace the outside capacitor, like that lady told you, outside one, not inside one..
I would like them to stay focus on the inside first before we start replacing parts for no reason.

She said the fan inside does not come on when she switch the fan switch to "ON", so it's leading me to low voltage issues inside.
 
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Old 09-24-08, 11:06 PM
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Jay11j, Sorry I missed that point. She does need to check to see if the 24V is there.
 
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Old 09-25-08, 05:16 AM
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Jay11, is what sminker was describing for me to do what you were talking about with the low voltage thing? So the wires we need to check are behind the thermostat box on the wall, well, I guess I should call it the face plate on the wall?

Oh, and did the model number help any?
 
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Old 09-25-08, 06:33 AM
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Originally Posted by jessicawc
Jay11, is what sminker was describing for me to do what you were talking about with the low voltage thing?
Kinda, the way he is telling you is a way you can do it if you don't have a meter. Your just jumpering the wires (bypassing the thermostat) to see if any happens. If something does happens, then we know you got power, and it narrows down that the t-stat is not working.

If nothing happens, then we need to get a meter out to take a reading to see if we have power/voltage.



So the wires we need to check are behind the thermostat box on the wall, well, I guess I should call it the face plate on the wall?
Yes, you can check for power behind the thermostat on the wall, or at the air handler itself.

Oh, and did the model number help any?
No, I need to know what brand the air handler is. (You may of missed on my earlier post)
 
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Old 09-25-08, 06:40 AM
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Okay, as soon as my husband wakes him (he works nightshift), I will ask him what brand it is. Will this be near the model number?

And what way were you telling us to check the power voltage? You mentioned a probe. Is that something we need to buy to check the reading or something?

Where exactly and how could we check at the air handler itself? Is that what we would need a "probe" for?

Thanks so much for everyone's help.
 
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Old 09-25-08, 06:54 AM
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Originally Posted by jessicawc
Okay, as soon as my husband wakes him (he works nightshift), I will ask him what brand it is. Will this be near the model number?
No rush, I am heading out to work in an hour, won't be back till my lunch hour. The brand name should be right on the front cover of the air handler. And some times on where model number is at.


And what way were you telling us to check the power voltage? You mentioned a probe. Is that something we need to buy to check the reading or something?
A multimeter is what you need to get. You set it on AC voltage scale, and probe 1 on R and probe 2 on W and the meter should show a voltage reading if you got power. If it don't show power, then we have to go to the next step.

Where exactly and how could we check at the air handler itself?
Where the low voltage wire (Thermostat wire) goes to into the air handler, there should be a sets of screws with the wire connect to (R-W-C-Y...ect.)
 
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Old 09-25-08, 07:02 AM
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I will read this off to my husband over the phone and find out the brand name as soon as he wakes up, probably around 12:30 today, so that he can try to figure out about the meter and things.

I will let you know what he finds out if anything. Hope this figures things out.

Thanks so much.
 
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Old 09-25-08, 09:57 AM
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I asked my husband (still in the bed though) and he said that he believes it is a Coleman and I think I remember seeing that as well on the vent.

He still is not up yet to try anything though. I told him to call me later when he is fully up and everything though. He has to go to a class from 2-4 and he may try something after that, that has been mentioned.

Does knowing it is a Coleman and the model #: EB15B help any?
 
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Old 09-25-08, 11:35 AM
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Its a Coleman-Evcon 15 KW electric furnace.
 
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Old 09-25-08, 01:00 PM
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Ok, Thanks for the info.

I did some digging, and I am not finding any info that I am looking for..

On the lower left side is a field wire cover where I am guessing the wires are all hooked up, and above that is where the t-stat wire goes to.
 
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Old 09-25-08, 03:26 PM
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Multimeter

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...-30&lpage=none

I picked this at $27 as a link rather than the $14 analog because of the socket polarity checker and the safety stick for voltage present.

Good homeowner tool to have around.
 
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Old 09-26-08, 05:15 AM
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Thanks so much for all your help guys. I will print all this information out and take it home this weekend and let my husband look it over and try this information out. He has to sleep through the day right now because he has to work nightshift. He is off Saturday, so he can check it then, I guess. I will report Monday if anything happened or did not happen.

Thanks again.
 
 

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