Wiring a new Cond. Fan Motor. confused#


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Old 02-28-10, 03:30 PM
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Wiring a new Cond. Fan Motor. confused#

Hello All, need some help.

Heil Heat pump Fan motor needed to be replaced. Got a universal replacement motor and run Cap. Can't make sense of how to wire it without running L1 & L2 to the T1 & T2 Terminals off the Contactor. But if I do that the fan won't shut off in defrost cycles, right ?

208-230V

Old fan; 3 wire plus chassis Green ground, Red, Black, and brown. The brn running from the compressor Cap.

Replacment motor, 4 wire plus Green Chassis ground, White / Black [L1 & 2], and the Brown and Brown with the White Stripe that go to the new Cap.

Need the defrost cycle to work too...
 
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Old 02-28-10, 03:38 PM
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Post your heat pump model number.
One leg leaves the contactor and wires to the defrost board. This then leaves the defrost board and connects to your new motor. (usually the black wire)

This is a 10 SEER ICP (Heil) example...
 

Last edited by Houston204; 02-28-10 at 03:56 PM.
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Old 02-28-10, 03:54 PM
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Thanks so much for the reply!!

Some other notes: Had the compressor replaced last year in HOT Aug here. And now the fan motor. I sure wish we could have afforded to replace it at the age it is, especially with the $1500 tax credit thing, but there was no way $$!



New motor is Emerson, and I got the 7.5 / 370v CAP


 
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Old 02-28-10, 04:03 PM
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The schem in the cover is not legible, but that looks like it is it circuit wise.


SO:

Black on motor to black [from defrost board]. white to the red off the contactor T1, and does the brown off the comp Cap go to the side of the new CAP that has the brn or the Brn/wht? Or does the new run cap just hang there with the new motor leads and I cap off the brown from the comp Cap

Or none of what I typed.
 

Last edited by robt57; 02-28-10 at 04:43 PM.
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Old 02-28-10, 04:44 PM
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http://icpindexing.mqgroup.com/docum...2808100101.pdf

You are correct, except the old cap. It must be left in place to serve the compressor. It looks like motor black connects to terminal 4 on the heat/cool relay.

This is your diagram...


This may help understand why the old dual cap must be left in place for the compressor (except it doesn't have your defrost board)...
 
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Old 02-28-10, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Houston204

You are correct, except the old cap. It must be left in place to serve the compressor.
So the new Cap I got with the motor just hangs in there with no connection to the comp dual cap via the old brn wire then ?

Ad thanks so much for the info and your time.

My wife and I where just disusing the open and free exchange of info these day, unlike decade of the past.
 
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Old 02-28-10, 04:55 PM
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I'm not comfortable with the term "Just hangs in there".
I prefer the term "properly secured" to avoid injury.

Remove the old brown wire, it is no longer required.
 
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Old 02-28-10, 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Houston204
I'm not comfortable with the term "Just hangs in there".
I prefer the term "properly secured" to avoid injury.

Remove the old brown wire, it is no longer required.
OK, and I will wire tie it in a safe place. Poor choice of words, meant in the electrical sense I guess.

Thanks again!
 
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Old 03-01-10, 01:23 PM
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Got it in, been running it long and hard for 1-2 hours just short of the element coming on hoping I could get it to go to defrost mode. It made 44^ outside so I was not sure if it would hit the defrost cycle unless it was more like 30^ outside.

But it did, heat element came on after the comp fan kicked off and the compressor stayed running to defrost like it is supposed to.

Getting hot in the house, something my wife will love when she gets home and all the furniture and sheetrock is giving back therms. Been running just a few rooms on old baseboard elecs with the doors closed, so you walk out of the heated room and bam! LOL


Thanks very much!!
 
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Old 03-01-10, 04:16 PM
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That is great news.
Happy to have helped
 
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Old 03-01-10, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Houston204
That is great news.
Happy to have helped

Well, now I am having trouble getting the ne Honeywell thermo to work.


Heat came out when I put on the AC, nothe when in heat mode.

Model RTH7500.

my old thermo has

Yellow
Red
Orange
Brown
White
Green wires

Instruction for that unit.
http://customer.honeywell.com/techli...0s/69-1730.pdf
 
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Old 03-01-10, 05:20 PM
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The color alone isn't enough information.
Post the old Terminal = color combination for assistance.

You must also configure your new stat for heatpump operation.
Option 170 = 7
190 = 0

 
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Old 03-01-10, 05:37 PM
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I had that set to 8, now 7. 190 was zero.

No control or display for when the heater element is on thus far.

 

Last edited by robt57; 03-01-10 at 06:11 PM.
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Old 03-01-10, 06:02 PM
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W = Aux & E (white)
B = C (brown)
R = Rc & R (red)
Y = Y (yellow)
O = O/B (orange)

option 170 = 7
190 = 0



 
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Old 03-01-10, 06:11 PM
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what about the Green ??

Here is what i did after your last post, there is now a EM control in the control [not fan] menu.

Think it is OK now. Is there a way to get the AUX to not come on so soon/easy, seems to come on of 2^ over
room temp is dialed on the the right there...

 

Last edited by robt57; 03-01-10 at 06:57 PM.
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Old 03-01-10, 06:24 PM
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Green is G.
I wish this could be increased.
I recommend sealing that hole behind your stat.
 

Last edited by Houston204; 03-01-10 at 06:51 PM.
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Old 03-01-10, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Houston204
Green is G.
I wish this could be increased.
Wish what could be increased ?? Oh the overlap on the aux, yes, me too.

I recommend sealing that hole behind your stat.
That is a good idea, the bath room is on the other side of the wall, jumpy temps with showers going on and such. I think I will cut that kink off the red wire too.

So is that wired right then, didn't check the A/C yet...


Thanks again, Ciao
 

Last edited by robt57; 03-01-10 at 07:21 PM.
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Old 03-01-10, 07:43 PM
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Yes, it is wired correctly.
 
 

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