don't want to buy a new system. please help!
#1
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don't want to buy a new system. please help!
Once the thermostat activates, the air handler will start to prime up, while the condenser outside turns on. After a few min, the fan outside remains on but the air handler simply makes noises as if the freeon is rushing through the pipes and no air is discharged. Almost as if the condenser is pushing freeon and the airhandler isn't turning on. Could something be broken in the air handler? i've replaced t stats over and over just because. but to no avail
I can switch the thermostat to off, wait 5 min, turn it back on and the system works. a bit longer i repeat.
I can switch the thermostat to off, wait 5 min, turn it back on and the system works. a bit longer i repeat.
#4
Well, in cooling the stat will energize "G" (the fan) and "Y" (the outside unit) at the same time. When all this happens is the fan in auto or on?
What is the make of both units? What are the model and serial numbers?
What is the make of both units? What are the model and serial numbers?
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The air handler inside is made by goodman manufactering
Model AW24-05C and the condenser outside also made by goodman and it's model number is CK24-1B
The T. Stat is on auto.
Personally, no one ever wants to buy a new system. In my case, I build roads and not AC's so my knowledge is very vague and I look for people like yourself for help, yet I feel there is something easy I can replace to fix this. I just don't know what.
The fan works on cue when set to "on". new capacitors both inside and out. new t stat. coils are clean.
Model AW24-05C and the condenser outside also made by goodman and it's model number is CK24-1B
The T. Stat is on auto.
Personally, no one ever wants to buy a new system. In my case, I build roads and not AC's so my knowledge is very vague and I look for people like yourself for help, yet I feel there is something easy I can replace to fix this. I just don't know what.
The fan works on cue when set to "on". new capacitors both inside and out. new t stat. coils are clean.
#7
In the Goodman, very unlikely. Kmart wouldn't sell Goodman if they could. Maybe in the stat?
Try setting the fan to "on" and then turn on the A/C and see what happens.
Try setting the fan to "on" and then turn on the A/C and see what happens.
#8
Do you have a motherboard in the airhandler that the blower wires plug in at? Look.
And see if you have several blower wires plugged to different things printed on the board, like HEAT, COOL, PARK. If you have a multimeter, you could see if the blower wire hooked to COOL is loosing voltage at that terminal connection or not. One test-end of your meter should contact the COOL terminal while the other test-end shoud touch to good metal on the furnace.
And see if you have several blower wires plugged to different things printed on the board, like HEAT, COOL, PARK. If you have a multimeter, you could see if the blower wire hooked to COOL is loosing voltage at that terminal connection or not. One test-end of your meter should contact the COOL terminal while the other test-end shoud touch to good metal on the furnace.
#10
When the fan is running outside, is the compressor running also?
You cannot SEE it run, but you can hear it make that discernible ERRRRRRRR sound you can actually duplicate with your voice by humming ERRRRRRRR.
Go into handler when this problem occurs and wrap on relays with handle of screwdriver, to see if blower comes back on.
You cannot SEE it run, but you can hear it make that discernible ERRRRRRRR sound you can actually duplicate with your voice by humming ERRRRRRRR.
Go into handler when this problem occurs and wrap on relays with handle of screwdriver, to see if blower comes back on.
#11
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When the sysem is acting up, the T. stat activates and the compressor outside turns on and the inside handler sounds like bubbles almost going through the freeon pipe. The fan motor never turns on.
I can immediately switch the T. stat from "cool" to "off" and switch the fan from "auto" to "on" and fan will go on just fine. I can wait min or so and put the T. stat back to cool and i'm back in buisness.
My unit outside sounds normal when this all happens. I did read online that a condo assoc was having problems with this unit and had to replace the time delay fan relay. But they didn't say the symptoms.
thanks again.
Right now and for the last 1-2 hrs. great cool air. just doooon't get it!!
I can immediately switch the T. stat from "cool" to "off" and switch the fan from "auto" to "on" and fan will go on just fine. I can wait min or so and put the T. stat back to cool and i'm back in buisness.
My unit outside sounds normal when this all happens. I did read online that a condo assoc was having problems with this unit and had to replace the time delay fan relay. But they didn't say the symptoms.
thanks again.
Right now and for the last 1-2 hrs. great cool air. just doooon't get it!!
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T. Stat settings: "off" and fan set to "on" - result: fan turns on
T. Stat settings: fan still set to on "on" set to "cool" - result: fan remains on, condenser outside turs on, cold air blowing, T. Stat reaches designated degree, condenser turns off, fan remains on.
Thank you
#14
Good deal. Get a new stat. A good Honeywell VisionPro. Look at the Honeywell site. DO NOT go to a box store to get a thermostat!
Thermostats | Programmable Thermostats | Digital Thermostat | Thermostat | Honeywell Thermostats
Thermostats | Programmable Thermostats | Digital Thermostat | Thermostat | Honeywell Thermostats
#15
What fan we talking about here? In your OP, you say the outside fan remains on, (just like what you say above), but the handler blower quits. What are you refering to now, in your quote snippet above?
#18
He has already replaced the stat it sounds at least a couple times. That is scary to me, to have him yet spend more money on another. Even an elcheapo should work enough to make his system work, IMO.
I think he needs to verify that when the blower quits, if the stat is perhaps off (instead of still on, like he might think), and the contactor outside is stuck closed, for example. Not unless hockey already ruled that out by turning the temp way down on the stat, so he pretty much knows there is no way the stat shut off. Although there still is a presumption, unless one takes a meter and tests down in the handler's 24 volt terminal strip.
There also may be an issue if he has say an Rc connection where maybe a wire hookup there is loose or bad somewhere. It also be interesting to see a wiring diagram, to see if there is a relay that could be not staying closed, in the blower circuit. We have to be aware that in his OP, he made it clear that the problem is not that the blower does not work in AUTO. The issue is it comes on, but does not stay on.
There also could be an issue with the high-speed wiring circuit in the blower motor, if only that one speed is designated for cooling. If it is, one could verify, with a test meter, if power remains at the COOL board connector or not, when the blower shuts off in COOL-AUTO mode. This information could eliminate or condemn the cooling speed wiring in the motor. But - this issue really does not seem like the cause, since he can run it in COOL, when he manually turns on the fan, using the G circuit, rather than an Rc circuit. So it really does not look like the blower motor is the culprit.
I am more suspicious of a bad wire or connection at Rc, or a bad relay/timer that is in the Rc circuit.
I am tempted to run to a rental with heat-fan-ac on/auto, to check out my theories on the wiring hookup. Ya, I think I will. I know where I can go where the place is vacant. Now that we are approaching our own cooling season here, I have to put away my heating thinking cap and refresh and put on my cooling thinking cap.
...........................................................................................................................
I just got back from that vacant home. It has digital stat Rh and Rc jumpered, with only R in terminal strip in furnace. Meaning, in AUTO, the blower will come on when either the W (thru R heat) or Y (thru R cool) is energized. Wiring diagram shows before the blower, a multi-contact fan relay. with many of the blower speed wires attached to it. So I'd be looking at stuff I mentioned above.
If it were the stat, I'm afraid you would have to be one of the most unlucky dudes alive, to have that many stats that do not keep the blower going, IMO.
I think he needs to verify that when the blower quits, if the stat is perhaps off (instead of still on, like he might think), and the contactor outside is stuck closed, for example. Not unless hockey already ruled that out by turning the temp way down on the stat, so he pretty much knows there is no way the stat shut off. Although there still is a presumption, unless one takes a meter and tests down in the handler's 24 volt terminal strip.
There also may be an issue if he has say an Rc connection where maybe a wire hookup there is loose or bad somewhere. It also be interesting to see a wiring diagram, to see if there is a relay that could be not staying closed, in the blower circuit. We have to be aware that in his OP, he made it clear that the problem is not that the blower does not work in AUTO. The issue is it comes on, but does not stay on.
There also could be an issue with the high-speed wiring circuit in the blower motor, if only that one speed is designated for cooling. If it is, one could verify, with a test meter, if power remains at the COOL board connector or not, when the blower shuts off in COOL-AUTO mode. This information could eliminate or condemn the cooling speed wiring in the motor. But - this issue really does not seem like the cause, since he can run it in COOL, when he manually turns on the fan, using the G circuit, rather than an Rc circuit. So it really does not look like the blower motor is the culprit.
I am more suspicious of a bad wire or connection at Rc, or a bad relay/timer that is in the Rc circuit.
I am tempted to run to a rental with heat-fan-ac on/auto, to check out my theories on the wiring hookup. Ya, I think I will. I know where I can go where the place is vacant. Now that we are approaching our own cooling season here, I have to put away my heating thinking cap and refresh and put on my cooling thinking cap.
...........................................................................................................................
I just got back from that vacant home. It has digital stat Rh and Rc jumpered, with only R in terminal strip in furnace. Meaning, in AUTO, the blower will come on when either the W (thru R heat) or Y (thru R cool) is energized. Wiring diagram shows before the blower, a multi-contact fan relay. with many of the blower speed wires attached to it. So I'd be looking at stuff I mentioned above.
If it were the stat, I'm afraid you would have to be one of the most unlucky dudes alive, to have that many stats that do not keep the blower going, IMO.
Last edited by ecman51; 04-24-10 at 02:17 PM.
#20
That is why I am internal wreck inside.
Last night, after going to bed at 2:30, listening to tv talk show hosts and THEIR logic (one of my hobbies), I could not sleep, thinking about all kinds of stuff (like that lead paint garage, and how I am helping other maintenace men even, be maintenance men, and not getting paid for it - and the risks I take with trying to be this jack of all trades pro and not making mistakes in diagnostics or accidents. And then dealing with cars blowing head gaskets all the time.
I could go on, but I will spare you.



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yeah probably is a relay, but like just do what uve been doin, leave fan on all the time and let the condenser come on and off as it pleases. i guess you should find out how those relays work, they are all different how they work i mean, and find out if any are bad.
#23
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Good deal. Get a new stat. A good Honeywell VisionPro. Look at the Honeywell site. DO NOT go to a box store to get a thermostat!
Thermostats | Programmable Thermostats | Digital Thermostat | Thermostat | Honeywell Thermostats
Thermostats | Programmable Thermostats | Digital Thermostat | Thermostat | Honeywell Thermostats
#24
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the wires are connected correct. I checked the opposite ends to the handler with the schematic and it checks out.
#25
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He has already replaced the stat it sounds at least a couple times. That is scary to me, to have him yet spend more money on another. Even an elcheapo should work enough to make his system work, IMO.
I think he needs to verify that when the blower quits, if the stat is perhaps off (instead of still on, like he might think), and the contactor outside is stuck closed, for example. Not unless hockey already ruled that out by turning the temp way down on the stat, so he pretty much knows there is no way the stat shut off. Although there still is a presumption, unless one takes a meter and tests down in the handler's 24 volt terminal strip.
There also may be an issue if he has say an Rc connection where maybe a wire hookup there is loose or bad somewhere. It also be interesting to see a wiring diagram, to see if there is a relay that could be not staying closed, in the blower circuit. We have to be aware that in his OP, he made it clear that the problem is not that the blower does not work in AUTO. The issue is it comes on, but does not stay on.
There also could be an issue with the high-speed wiring circuit in the blower motor, if only that one speed is designated for cooling. If it is, one could verify, with a test meter, if power remains at the COOL board connector or not, when the blower shuts off in COOL-AUTO mode. This information could eliminate or condemn the cooling speed wiring in the motor. But - this issue really does not seem like the cause, since he can run it in COOL, when he manually turns on the fan, using the G circuit, rather than an Rc circuit. So it really does not look like the blower motor is the culprit.
I am more suspicious of a bad wire or connection at Rc, or a bad relay/timer that is in the Rc circuit.
I am tempted to run to a rental with heat-fan-ac on/auto, to check out my theories on the wiring hookup. Ya, I think I will. I know where I can go where the place is vacant. Now that we are approaching our own cooling season here, I have to put away my heating thinking cap and refresh and put on my cooling thinking cap.
...........................................................................................................................
I just got back from that vacant home. It has digital stat Rh and Rc jumpered, with only R in terminal strip in furnace. Meaning, in AUTO, the blower will come on when either the W (thru R heat) or Y (thru R cool) is energized. Wiring diagram shows before the blower, a multi-contact fan relay. with many of the blower speed wires attached to it. So I'd be looking at stuff I mentioned above.
If it were the stat, I'm afraid you would have to be one of the most unlucky dudes alive, to have that many stats that do not keep the blower going, IMO.
I think he needs to verify that when the blower quits, if the stat is perhaps off (instead of still on, like he might think), and the contactor outside is stuck closed, for example. Not unless hockey already ruled that out by turning the temp way down on the stat, so he pretty much knows there is no way the stat shut off. Although there still is a presumption, unless one takes a meter and tests down in the handler's 24 volt terminal strip.
There also may be an issue if he has say an Rc connection where maybe a wire hookup there is loose or bad somewhere. It also be interesting to see a wiring diagram, to see if there is a relay that could be not staying closed, in the blower circuit. We have to be aware that in his OP, he made it clear that the problem is not that the blower does not work in AUTO. The issue is it comes on, but does not stay on.
There also could be an issue with the high-speed wiring circuit in the blower motor, if only that one speed is designated for cooling. If it is, one could verify, with a test meter, if power remains at the COOL board connector or not, when the blower shuts off in COOL-AUTO mode. This information could eliminate or condemn the cooling speed wiring in the motor. But - this issue really does not seem like the cause, since he can run it in COOL, when he manually turns on the fan, using the G circuit, rather than an Rc circuit. So it really does not look like the blower motor is the culprit.
I am more suspicious of a bad wire or connection at Rc, or a bad relay/timer that is in the Rc circuit.
I am tempted to run to a rental with heat-fan-ac on/auto, to check out my theories on the wiring hookup. Ya, I think I will. I know where I can go where the place is vacant. Now that we are approaching our own cooling season here, I have to put away my heating thinking cap and refresh and put on my cooling thinking cap.
...........................................................................................................................
I just got back from that vacant home. It has digital stat Rh and Rc jumpered, with only R in terminal strip in furnace. Meaning, in AUTO, the blower will come on when either the W (thru R heat) or Y (thru R cool) is energized. Wiring diagram shows before the blower, a multi-contact fan relay. with many of the blower speed wires attached to it. So I'd be looking at stuff I mentioned above.
If it were the stat, I'm afraid you would have to be one of the most unlucky dudes alive, to have that many stats that do not keep the blower going, IMO.
I purchased for 20 bucks a new relay. I am going to change out the relay and make sure all other wires are nicely snug around their respective prong. I will let you know what happens! After this, I presume any further replacements could get more $$$, hopefully it doesn't come down to that.
I will let you know! ::Crossing my fingers::
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Well I'm on day 2 and the system so far is working with the new time delay fan relay.
The question still remains, is there really a conflict with a honeywell t. stat working with a goodman?
The question still remains, is there really a conflict with a honeywell t. stat working with a goodman?