Carrier 58PAV control board getting damaged and blower fan does not turn on.


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Old 08-30-11, 08:56 PM
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Carrier 58PAV control board getting damaged and blower fan does not turn on.

I thought my problem with resolved but that is not the case. Here is the original thread for reference.
http://www.doityourself.com/forum/ai...-not-turn.html

Anyway my blower stopped running. It would not respond to run. I changed the cap on the motor and ran the self diagnostic test and the inducer motor and ignitor would run but no response from the blower fan although I could hear the relay click.
I took the board off and saw trace burnt on the Hi/Lo relay at the narrowest portion where it connects from the blower relay.

Got a controller board from ebay and put it in there and everything was back to running. Tested both cool and heat everything worked as it should. Although I did smell some funky smell with air blowing but not sure what it is as it did not really smell something burnt.

Next day I tried to run the air and no blower fan. I could see the light flicker and as I can hear clicking sound as something trying to engage every 5-10secs but no blower fan. I could not go and check it at the furnace as it is in the attic and I have to get a ladder to get up there.

Anyway, shut the unit off, went and checked the furnace and everything looked good. Ran the diagnostic the inducer motor and ignitor would run but no response from the blower fan hustjas before (when I had the first control board). Turned the blower fan by hand it is smooth no resistance in turning.
Took the controller board off and it has the blown trace at the exact same place as the first board. Any ideas or suggestions?

Here are the pics where the traces are blown
Carrier AC problem :: burntsection.gif picture by iafzal - Photobucket
Carrier AC problem :: IMG_4204burnt.jpg picture by iafzal - Photobucket

Does anyone know what should be the impedance of the motor winding? I can try to check that and see if the motor is bad. Also any one knows the part number 58pav(up side) blower motor?

Thanks for the input.

Any idea what it could be? Is it a short in the cables or the motor winding toast?
 

Last edited by iafzal; 08-30-11 at 09:58 PM.
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Old 08-30-11, 09:57 PM
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sounds like you bought a used board.............. You need a clamp on meter to check the amp draw of the motor. You can check the winding resistance between the legs, but you must use the high speed tap (black wire), neutral wire (white) and start wire (brown). The highest reading should equal the sum of the other two

Black to White
White to Brown
Black to Brown
 
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Old 08-30-11, 10:09 PM
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Thanks
btw, I attached a couple of pics to show where the burnt trace is and also exactly where it is on the schematics. From what I can see it seems to point motor drawing too much current and the weakest portion of the trace burning out.

I will get an amp meter from work and bypass the relays and power the blower motor directly and see how much current I see. I assume anything above 10amps will be too much.
Any idea what is the expected range?
I will also measure the impedance as you mentioned and report back hopefully by tomorrow this time.
 
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Old 08-30-11, 10:48 PM
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amp draw should be listed on the motor data plate
 
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Old 09-01-11, 01:19 AM
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I measured the resistance between Black and white but could not get to the two cap brown wires. The resistance was 1.1 ohms. I did not think much of it and went to next step of measuring current by bypassing the blower relay etc. Bad move, there was inrush of about 75A and a flash next to the blower motor and I turned the power off immediately. If the motor was not bad this may have done it as I could smell burning wire for a little while after the spark.

Anyway after some effort I managed to remove the motor from the blower housing and measure the resistance just to make sure
Black to White 1.1 ohms
White to Brown1 3.5 ohms
White to Brown2 45 ohms
Black to Brown1 2.9 ohms
Black to Brown2 45.8 ohms
There are 2 brown wires for the start/runcap.
So does this tell anything about the motor?

This is GE motor 1/3HP part number HC41AE115A (5.8 FLA on the nameplate)
Carrier Bryant Payne 1/3 HP BLOWER MOTOR HC41AE115A | eBay

Any advice if this motor is bad or problem lies elsewhere. I am thinking about going to Grainger and get this motor
Blower Motor, 1/3hp, 1075/3, 115 V, 48Y, OpAO - Direct Drive Blower Motors - HVAC Motors - 4KA34 : Grainger Industrial Supply
Motor, 1/3 HP, 1075, 3 Spd, 115 V, 48YZ, OPAO - Direct Drive Blower Motors - HVAC Motors - 4M098 : Grainger Industrial Supply


Thanks for you feedback!
 
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Old 09-01-11, 04:37 AM
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You are correct there are 2the brown wires. Except that one is brown with a white stripe. So. From what you posted I can't tell a whole lot. 75A is wasthe too much. Sounds like you had a wire grounded. 2 things could cause the board to fail. Faulty solder connection or very high amping motor. My recommendation for you at this point is replace both with NEW components.

Btw. When you take resistance readings you mist have all the wires unplugged... just invade you didn't..
 
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Old 09-01-11, 11:04 AM
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Yes I took the resistance measurement with the motor completely removed. But do these numbers sounds right for a good motor of such kind?

I agree the motor is pulling too much current. 75A is in the range if the resistance is around 1.1 ohms and it seems the winding portion to the bown wire (45ohms section) is maybe compromised. I saw the flash next to the motor when the 75A inrush happened and to me the fault seems to be pointing to the motor. i hope it is not someother mechanical issue.
On my motor both cap wires seem to be same no white wire.

Can I use 3 speed motor if the original one was 4 speed? I guess I can since we only 2 of the speeds and other 2 are not used.
 
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Old 09-02-11, 03:51 AM
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Bad motor....... yes you can use 3 speed
 
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Old 11-25-13, 06:38 PM
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58pov

had same problem with board. arc mark at relay leg. burned copper foil at relay leg. I cleaned carbon off leg and scraped epoxy off of about an inch of good foil and then tinned with solder and re connected to relay leg. you may also reinforce with solder wick to make better connection. I did this and my fan came back on and it cleared all codes. had similar problem with electric fireplace, fixed it too.
 
 

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